Rear hub nut...

[jdnizzle]

Now what?!?
I've sprayed the crap out of the hub nut with liquid wrench already, I'm running out of idea on how to loosen the nut.

[mondshine]

The best tool to use for that nut is one of the torque multiplying tools; "torquemeister", "torque buddy", etc.

They apply force at about a 9:1 ratio, and make this an easy job.

Beating the nut with a hammer, or beating the "special wrench" with a hammer is also beating the wheel bearings; not a good approach.

Also consider that at some point, you will have to put the nut back on, and to a specified torque.
The torque multiplying tool makes this an easy, one handed job with a common torque wrench, and it is also a very useful tool for the flywheel gland bolt (if that job is in your future).

Good luck, Mondshine

[Bama Dave]

Although you did not say, I presume you have removed all of the cotter pin?

I would try an impact gun next.

Other than that, I recommend using a chisel and hammer (or cut off wheel) and carefully cut the nut off...without damaging the axle threads.

A new axle nut is cheap enough...
_________________
David Richerson

1970 Beetle
1971 Super
1972 Baja

[BUGGED11111]

Never bring a knife to a gun fight. There's ~225lbs of torque on those assuming the person who put them on used a torque wrench.

Choose your weapon:

Torquemeister is best but the impact tool is OK as well as an impact gun as long as it's hefty

http://www2.cip1.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=1807

[Tim Donahoe]

You need a 3/4 inch drive breaker bar, a 3/4 inch drive socket that is 1 and 7/16 inch (which is 36 mm), and a four foot long cheater pipe. These can be purchased at Sears (for the best results). Not cheap, but neither is breaking more and more 1/2 inch breaker bars that have shown to be inadequate.

You can also buy a TorqueMeister knock-off that will do the job.

Or, you can continue to do the same thing over and over, and hope for a different result.

There is also a cheap tool that most VW vendors sell. You hit it with a hammer until the nut loosens. I've heard that they work, but I don't like pounding around my axel.

Tim
_________________
Let's do the Time Warp again!

Richard O'Brien

[birddog1]

I would invest in a torquemeister. I wouldn't cut it off unless you have someway to get the new nut back on with the proper torque. Those rear drums will fly off if not correctly tightened.

[jdnizzle]

Thank you everyone for the responses.

It was sadly a 1/2" drive breaker bar that bit the dust.

Stupid question time: The drive side hub nut comes off counter clockwise, correct? ( I tried both directions to get any kind of movement, it was actually going the wrong way that got the passenger side to break free.)

Yes, the complete split pin is out.

TorqueMeister - knock offs would be a torque multiplier, yes? Is the Harbour Fright version worth the buy? (it seems those come for the purpose of removing semi lug nuts, do they support the 36mm socket?

Thanks,
JD

[Tim Donahoe]

The socket is not the problem. It's the too-small 1/2 inch drive that breaks. Yes, a TorqueMeister knock-off is a torque multiplier. As mentioned, they are also great for torquing the nut back on. 28 lbs. at the ratchet gives you 252 lbs. at the nut.

Tim
_________________
Let's do the Time Warp again!

Richard O'Brien

[Cusser]

[gimpy60]

Why in the hell do you people use a "cheater" on your tools. Buy the right tool for the job.

I was schooled in '62-'63 in auto mechanic shop on this when I twisted off a head stud in a jeep motor, got caught, got a D that semester. Lesson learned.

I have used some jerked off methods on off road cars in the desert, don't justify doin' the shit in your shop
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How the hell ya spost ta fix it, ya don't even know how it works boy

[FeelthySanchez]

Painfully obvious that yer in way over yer head here: using a cheap-ass chink 1/2" breaker bar on a 216 ft-lb-torqued axle nut=complete rookie F-up.

Buy a 3/4" breaker bar/socket or else take it to the nearest competent VW wrench, mate.

[Cusser]

[olspeed]

[mark tucker]

that sucker needs to be tight.I dont like using a impact wrench due to the ring gear&pinion taking the wacking unless you have the axle out and the break on. Ive broken a few breaker bars on that and the gland nut.crapsman ones just doint seem to be up to it. but ...after breaking the crapsmans one I pulled out the trusty harber of fright one....that I got on sale for .99 cents( I bought 6 of them at the price) and Ive used it for years now with no issues at all and gave away 3 of the others. go figure.

[Cali_Army_Guy]

To bad your not in CA. I have a 1" impact and sockets on my service truck. Makes short work of these tasks.
_________________
2015 VW Passat Wolfsburg Edition
1966 VW Beetle - Sold

[helowrench]

[Beauboy]

Yo Dizzle -

I had the exact same thing about 10 years ago on my '69. Went through two 1/2" breaker bars, both with a 4 ft. cheater. Finally took it to a shop where they used a 500lb impact wrench and got it right off. I immediately went out and bought myself one.

[Cusser]

[Tim Donahoe]

Why in hell do we use a "cheater"? Why not, if that what it takes?

VW owners have been using a cheater pipe on that rear axle nut for decades. It's not a new concept. I use a cheater pipe on my 3/4 inch breaker. It simply makes it easier to get the rear nut off, so why knock myself out? No muss or fuss. A little twist and the nut is free.

Car mechanics may have thousands to spend over a lifetime in the business, but most VW enthusiasts aren't willing to spend huge amounts for a collection of tools that get a fraction of the use a mechanic will perform over a lifetime.

I also have a TorqueMeister knock off, but only use it to torque my flywheel and axle nuts. But before I bought it, I relied on the 3/4 inch breaker bar--and a cheater pipe.

A pipe makes a good weapon in a pinch, too .

I'm not proud.

Tim
_________________
Let's do the Time Warp again!

Richard O'Brien

[Mudpump]

Some cheapo's around here. When you factor how much you would pay for a shop to do the brakes, a Torquemeister pays for itself on one brake job,actually one drum. It's one tool well worth buying.