71 Project with Turbo 1915cc Build

[FullFender]

Finished up the lower mount today. I think I'm going to round the end of the stud but overall I'm happy with it. With this mount the bottom of the decklid sits flush with the apron
Without the decklid-

Secured with a quick pin, with decklid-

Bought a new Spectre filter today, the colour is going to take some getting used too but I'm happy with it

[FullFender]

These are the upper mounts, they bolt right above where the original hinges go. Still need to paint them then drill for the quick pins and it should be done.

[FullFender]

Painted a drilled the mounts for the upper quick pins
Here is how they mounted up

This is painted with pins I only have a picture of the driver side but both sides are identical

Got a call from Innovate and since AutoMeter just bought out Innovate the corporate offices are in a chaotic switchover with the mechanics trying to learn the all new tech. A lot of systems are on back order so if I don't get it back by Monday they'll send me a new kit altogether.

[FullFender]

Innovate sent me a whole new kit, which works good. I'm really happy with how they handled the situation in light of being in the middle of a buyout. I took its for a run today in beautiful 70* weather. It ran pretty dang good but the carb still needs some fine tuning (FI is lookin real great right about now lol). The temp stayed solid at 200F. It starts to warm up in stop and go traffic, which I think is pretty normal but it cools off after the traffic clears up.
I've got a GoPro vid from the rear window that I'll try and get posted in the next few days she's a head turner for sure

[FullFender]

New innovate censor kaput again, I know I know why should I expect anything different? :fist:

[clonebug]

Get a PLX with Multigauge.....
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[FullFender]

[clonebug]

[FullFender]

[clonebug]

The O2 sensor needs to be up at the 10:00 or 2:00 o'clock position to stay out of the condensation. The 7 o'clock position allows moisture to get into the sensor which will kill it quickly.

I get lots of condensation when I start my Buggy and I still have not had any issue with my PLX AFR sensor in over 3 years. My sensor bung is at the 10:00 o'clock position.
It's been in that position since 2011.

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[FullFender]

Grab your popcorn, disaster may have struck people. But before I poop on my own party. I got the PLX yesterday and installed just fine, happy with the whole setup. Now, the real fun that is VW's. Remember back when I said the clutch cable broke? Pulled that out and it looks fine as wine. Yet when it broke the pedal when to the floor and was just flopping around. Something with the throwout bearing must've broke, the arm the cable attaches to moves freely.


I'd like to hear your input but I'm thinking the motor is going to have to come out........again. I guess the good news is I don't have to clean and paint it this time

Go turbo they said, it'd be fun they said.

[clonebug]

It is fun.....but no one said it would be a cake walk......

It takes some time to get it all worked out but once it's running good you will never go without a turbo again.
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[FullFender]

[FullFender]

Finished installing the throwout bearing shaft. The arms on this one wrap all the way around and are welded on one side
Old

New

Installed

[FullFender]

Got the engine back in

I also worked on cleaning up the lower gauge cluster

Will go for a test run tomorrow and report back

[FullFender]

I got a lot done (for me anyway) today that I'm pretty happy about. 99% done with the interior.

It ran OK but the carb needs work. I think I'm going to 1 1/4 turns out on the idle mix. At a stop light today it loaded up and shut off right as it turned green people were generous and no one ran me over. I'd also like to get a larger power valve...it's goes a little lean up at higher rpm. I know a carb guy and he said at 10lb vacuum I should get like an 8.5 which should improve the AFR. Right now it's got a 4.5

[FullFender]

A little more adjusting on the carb, the new power valve has made the AFR's way more happy and it doesn't go lean any more unless I shift too early. I've dropped a few jet sizes and I still think I need to go down because it likes to load up in traffic. Very driveable though. I also changed out my old oil feed line to a new copper one, I was a little worried about it being close to the turbo

I maybe got a few new stickers too

Drove it a couple miles to a Horsepower cruise-in and brought home a knarly sunburn and a "Top 10 Trophy"

I only knocked the exhaust of once on the way easy fix and it is part of the adventure. All in good fun

[madmike]

Good job on the trophy Heating the intake on mine sure helped the Loading up ( RLR intake) but he's sure proud of them , Mine use to load up when I'd pull up to a traffic lite or cruising sometimes ,, not anymore Before & after

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'Black Ice'Drag Buggy 'Turbo'
Rail Buggy 1915 turbo
76 Drag/Street bug 2180cc 'Turbo' 11:85 @113 mph"If I go any faster I'll burn up the Hamster" ,gets 28 mpg. also 10/09/22 11.90 @115 mph
"If I'm ever on Life Support,UNPLUG Me, Then Plug me back In see if that Works"

[buguy]

I'm a little surprised going to a higher number on the power valve helped at all on the upper rpms. That doesn't make it a larger power valve, just changes when it opens. That number is how many inches of vacuum it opens up at. An 8.5 opens at 8.5" of vac, a 4.5 opens at 4.5" of vac and so on. It doesn't change the amount of fuel. If you actually need more fuel in upper rpms you will have to drill out the orifices where the power valve is. Pretty common on turbos.
I love my PLX but that's one of the things that is tough having the multi gauge. For turning you kind of need to see more than one thing at a time. Ideally I'd you could see boost, afr, and vacuum at the same time, it would be easier to tune. Especially the power valve. If you could see right where it goes lean you would know where you were on the vacuum and adjust accordingly.
Almost sounds like you need a larger main jet to me. Going too high on the power valve might get you into the power valve at medium throttle cruise.
For mine I make 20" of vac at idle so I went with a 10.5 power valve. Didn't work well because it doesn't take much to get down to 10.5" of vacuum, so it would richen it up too early.
It's a crazy balancing act between the accelerator pump, main jets, and power valve.

[FullFender]