Auto trans kickdown adjustment and worn linkage

[blackglasspirate]

Mod edit: Just a note, this thread covers adjusting the throttle cable, accelerator rod and kickdown for both stock engines and transplants.
The difference is that the stock 1.9 and 2.1 engines need to be aware of not only proper kick down adjustment but also proper wide open throttle timing and high speed TPS operation.

***************************
Hey all,
So I've been having an issue where the transmission kicks down prematurely, which is annoying and sometimes frightening (when you all of a sudden redline). I've read through some threads on here and the adjustment procedure in the Bentley and am guessing the cable from the pedal to the trans is too tight. I'm going to try to adjust that today, if possible.

My question though is, isn't the governor supposed to prevent the trans from downshifting at high RPMs or at least upshift to 3rd once it realizes it is over-reving? I've had it downshift to 2nd at 65MPH. I was also on the interstate with cruise control at 68 and started going up a small incline and it dropped to 2nd and started almost bucking until I turned off CC and slowed down. Not exactly a relaxing drive.

Anyway, that's it - just wondering. Thanks!
_________________
'87 Vanagon GL Westfalia
IG: @holidayatsee
FB: https://www.facebook.com/holidayatsee

[Terry Kay]

If the kick down rod isn't adjusted properly on the TB arm, this would most certainly cause incorrect down shift points.

If the pivot on the side of the trans is frozen, it also will cause this problem.
_________________
T.K.

[danfromsyr]

agree with TK
you set the length of the solid (sprung) rod from the trans relay lever to the TB at the TB.
undo the throttle cable at the base of the pedal 1st.
then once you've set the length of the (sprung) rod you take the slack out of the cable at the pedal pivot.

you can dial it in a little to suit by trying some different lengths on the (sprung) rod. this in effect sets the baseline for the AT relay lever "home" position.
_________________

[blackglasspirate]

I know this is a late update to this thread, but I did adjust the kickdown via the rod from the trans to the TB and the cable to the pedal. I just did a 800 mile drive and still had it downshifting to 2nd way too early so it seems I may need to try to adjust it again, but I still had some questions.

I read in this thread ( https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0 ) that 2nd gear in the auto is limited to 55MPH and the governor will automatically upshift to 3rd regardless of throttle position, and also that it won't allow downshift to 2nd when above 55MPH.

That's not the case with my transmission. It will downshift to 2nd at 60MPH and won't upshift again unless I take my foot completely off the gas. So could that still be an adjustment issue or could it also be an issue with the governor? I did another minor adjustment at the pedal (added some slack) before this recent drive, but it didn't make a significant difference. It also seems to kick down sooner when it's hot (driving for a couple of hours).

Unfortunately I don't have the van with me right now to adjust, and it may be a few weeks before I see it again and can attempt to adjust it (it's currently being shipped to Colombia).
_________________
'87 Vanagon GL Westfalia
IG: @holidayatsee
FB: https://www.facebook.com/holidayatsee

[ALIKA T3]

Sounds like a Valve body issue, or some crap trapped somewhere
_________________
Silicone Steering Boots and 930 Cv boots for sale in the classifieds.
Syncro transmission upgrade parts in the Classifieds.
Subaru EJ22+UN1 5 speed transmission
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=416343
Syncro http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4...num+gadget

[blackglasspirate]

Well, I hope there's no crap trapped in there. I recently did a fluid change, along with the filter/paper gasket. I noticed a little bit of stuff in the filter, but not much. It was the first time changing the filter since getting this rebuilt unit about 35k miles ago, but I figured any "glitter" in the filter was probably from the initial break-in.

I'll have to do some research on valve body issues and what I can do about that once I get the van back.
_________________
'87 Vanagon GL Westfalia
IG: @holidayatsee
FB: https://www.facebook.com/holidayatsee

[Wildthings]

Have you pulled the governor and looked at it? A previous owner may have decided to shave the weights a bit to up the shift points.

[blackglasspirate]

[kourt]

This is the info on shaving Vanagon governors:

http://my.tbaytel.net/guskers/trans.pdf

There's also a Youtube video out there, but it's totally useless.

kourt

[Wildthings]

FWIW, I shaved the governor on my '91 when I did the Subaru swap, never could get the tranny to shift all that well afterwards. I eventually got hold of an unshaved governor, installed it, and adjusted the linkage a bit and was much more pleased with the overall performance of the box.

[blackglasspirate]

Thanks for the info, guys. I'll take a look at the governor once I get the van back. Maybe the linkage needs to be adjusted again, though it still sounds like the governor isn't doing its job. I never had this issue before installing the rebuilt trans.
I may attempt to adjust it so I can still hit WOT without engaging the kickdown at all. The times where I actually legitimately use the kickdown are few and far between. I'd much rather have the control to manually downshift if needed.
_________________
'87 Vanagon GL Westfalia
IG: @holidayatsee
FB: https://www.facebook.com/holidayatsee

[Jon_slider]

[blackglasspirate]

[Jon_slider]

ok, sorry its not just the tires

a few thoughts, with all due respect, as there may be a mechanical issue and you do need to solve it if there is.

Alternative viewpoints, IF the issue is that you're moving heavy loads, up steep hills, at higher speeds than the van can manage. (are you for example keeping your van below GVWR?):

learn to tolerate the downshift, it is there to help you get up a hill.
learn to tolerate higher RPM, 4500k is not to be feared,
learn to tolerate going slower, when the van downshifts going uphill

most of all, major respect for your courage, sense of adventure, and inspired relationship

I really enjoy your photos
_________________
My Soapboxes: Inflation; Handling; Gearing; Decoupling; Swepco

[djkeev]

I have found with my 86 2.1 WBX Auto that I manually downshift and run a consistent rpm until the crest.

It is much more relaxing doing this than enduring the constant upshift / downshift pattern that occurs if you let the transmission decide.

Dave
_________________
Stop Dead Photo Links how to post photos

Ghia
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=392473

Vanagon
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537

Beetle
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482968&highlight=74+super+vert

[blackglasspirate]

[Jon_slider]

[timichango]

[SCM]

My kickdown isn't working now either.

I had a rebuilt transaxle installed a couple years ago and took it back as the kickdown was really harsh. It would cause a loud BOOM but at least it worked. But the installer readjusted the cable/linkage it and it worked fine for 2 years. During our last trip we had no kickdown and had to manually shift into 2nd climbing steep hills.

I'm sure it's a simple adjustment but I'm not sure what to shoot for.

Here's a photo of the TB linkage/pivot with the gas pedal floored;

And the butterfly valve;

Shouldn't that valve be totally open when the pedal is floored?

When I pushed the TB to transaxle linkage toward the front of the van it looked like this, and my helper said, "the gas pedal got pulled closer to the floor".

The butterfly valve looked like this.

Shouldn't that butterfly valve be positioned as shown in that last picture when the gas pedal is fully depressed?

I'm trying to figure out whether the adjustment should be to the pedal-trans cable or the trans-to-TB linkage. I also want to avoid that harsh kickdown I experienced when the trans was installed but don't know what caused that in the first place.

I've looked at my Bentley but the photos showing the various reference positions of the kickdown lever are really poor.
_________________
'91 Westfalia GL Automatic (GTA "Turbo" Rebuild w/Peloquin) and 2.3L GoWesty Engine

[skills@eurocarsplus]

it took me a while to wrap my head around how this is suppose to work.

i'll give you a dumbed down version

basically you want WOT when you mash your foot to the floor. the way vw does this is they want the spring compressed on the rod at the TB at the same time the kick down lever on the trans is in kick down mode.

the easiest way i have found to adjust this is push the kick down lever all the way forward and zip tie it there.

have a brick, hammer, ax or whatever keep the pedal to the floor. adjust the cable at the pedal end nice and tight (by tight, i mean pull the cable tight)

take a peek at the throttle blade before removing any bricks, zip ties etc. if it's WOT, you're good to go. if not, adjust the spring accordingly
_________________