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Sodo
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2007
Posts: 9600
Location: Western WA
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 Posted: Tue Jun 16, 2020 9:16 pm Post subject: Re: How to "Needle grease" balljoints and tie rod ends |
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Having done the needle grease method (this thread) and the zerk method,
Vanagon Ball Joints - HOW TO add grease zerk fittings (new MOOG)
If I had to do it again I'd choose the needle-grease method.
Much easier, less chance of problems, and same result (every 30-50,000 miles).
_________________
'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb |
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Steve M.
Samba Member
Joined: July 30, 2013
Posts: 6814
Location: Fort Lauderdale, Fl.
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| Posted: Mon Apr 12, 2021 9:59 pm Post subject: Re: How to "Needle grease" balljoints and tie rod ends |
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Just saw on Rock Auto a design of a greaseable Tie Rod End from MOOG.
MOOG ES2388RL Tie Rod End $ 17.01
They have a hole in the bottom for zerk fitting.and include a zerk fitting.
They only had one left in stock. I created a notification to email me when they get more.
It also looks as if it has a metal socket instead of a plastic socket.
Also saw it here for $18.99
https://www.carparts.com/tie-rod-end/moog/moes2388rl
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This free advice is worth exactly what you paid for it.
There are seven days in a week. Someday is not one of them. |
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Ronzo_volvo_guy
Samba Member
Joined: December 31, 2015
Posts: 194
Location: Connecticut
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| Posted: Tue Apr 13, 2021 8:03 am Post subject: Re: How to "Needle grease" balljoints and tie rod ends |
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Forum;
Great info from Sodo! ...including the linked thread about adding Zerk fittings!
I wish there was just a Thanks or Thumbs-up which one could add to any posting (Sys Ops/Admins, are you seeing this?)
I call "Maintenance-Free" ball joints (and Batteries) non-maintainable!
Cheers |
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pf4d
Samba Member
Joined: April 21, 2016
Posts: 13
Location: Montana
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| Posted: Fri Dec 02, 2022 9:56 am Post subject: Re: How to "Needle grease" balljoints and tie rod ends |
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| If you are worried about the metal shavings you can use a magnet to get them out. |
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MuzzcoVW
Samba Member
Joined: February 21, 2018
Posts: 1460
Location: Westfield, MA.
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| Posted: Fri Dec 02, 2022 11:26 am Post subject: Re: How to "Needle grease" balljoints and tie rod ends |
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| For years I've used the hypodermic needle style grease tips to take care of my ball joints etc. Works great...and is far quicker. |
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Sodo
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2007
Posts: 9600
Location: Western WA
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| Posted: Fri Dec 02, 2022 12:27 pm Post subject: Re: How to "Needle grease" balljoints and tie rod ends |
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| MuzzcoVW wrote: |
| For years I've used the hypodermic needle style grease tips to take care of my ball joints etc. Works great...and is far quicker. |
It's definitely quicker to grease the "boot side" of the ball.
How much grease makes it to the other side of the ball?
On the upper ball joints, the pressure side is opposite the boot.
But maybe on an old loose ball that slops up&down??
A loose ball could last much much longer (greased than dry).
Drilling into the cap is for "ensuring there's grease on the other side - opposite the boot".
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This business of drilling into a balljoint..... You don't know what kind of grease was in there. If you mix incompatible greases, you end up with LESS lubrication. Sometimes it's like soap, you don't wanna mix petrol grease in there. I studied it hard trying to find the answers and didn't find any useful path forward that supported pumping grease into every balljoint.
You won't likely know what the MFR put in there, and if you are helping or hurting.
I've drilled into balljoints that were packed with grease from the factory.
Others, it's a void. Almost no grease at all.
So I'm coming around to this....... (YMMV)
- If you drill in, and find LOTS of grease, it's got grease - leave it alone, don't mix unknown greases. Cover your "inspection hole" with Permatex® Ultra-Grey (or Black) and then check again after 50,000 miles.
- If you drill in, and find it empty, pump some molybdenum grease in and cover your hole with Ultra-Grey (or black). After 5k miles or so, look again, and pump more moly grease in, lifting the boot to let mixed grease out. Try to pump thru, to replace the unknown mixed grease with "pure moly" grease.
- If the ball-joint is real old but not too loose..... grease it now, and grease it again later.
It will probably extend the life.
Plus it will feel like good shop-time.
Enjoy it.
I wouldn't worry about the steel bits at all. Try to keep them all out as possible, but it's very slow-moving greased joint. It's hot a high-speed bearing that's gonna burn up.
"Stone" from the roadway, getting in because the boot is cracked, is much much worse than "mild steel" bits from an 'anal-owner's excessive maintenance endeavor'.
_________________
'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb |
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