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UK Luke 72
Samba Member
Joined: September 07, 2011
Posts: 2867
Location: Little Britain
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 Posted: Sat Jan 14, 2017 4:08 am Post subject: 1835 camper engine |
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Finally some progress on these builds so here goes.
Used AS41 line bored first over and thrust cut.
92mm AA hyper eutectic piston set 'A'
AA stock length cylinders
CB 69mm crank
Forged 8 dowel flywheel
Vw gland nut
Kennedy stage 1 and daiken disc
Khultek 5.4" I beams with 3/8 bolts
Web 218/119 on EP12 billet with Scat lightweight lifters with grooved oilways
Empi adjustable helical gears
Silver line double thrust cam bearings
Silver line mains and rod bearings
Shadek 26mm oil pump
Mofoco 35x32 040 fresh from Roy
Stock pushrods
Stock rockers bolt up shafts
Jaycee tubes
Shooting for 0.050” deck ~8.5:1 Cr
Pics incoming once I work out how to host on here...
As always thoughts, comments and suggestions all welcome 
Luke |
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Cusser
Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006
Posts: 31360
Location: Hot Arizona
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truckersmike
Elder Sambanite
Joined: March 16, 2001
Posts: 2025
Location: Bellingham, WA
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| Posted: Sat Jan 14, 2017 10:06 am Post subject: Re: 1835 camper engine |
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| Cusser wrote: |
| 1835cc in a VW bus? Just make sure to get sufficient air flow and engine cooling. |
I'm assuming he means the AA 92 thick wall. At least I hope so 
Last November, I built a 1776 with that cam at 8.6CR with dual Kadrons and stock heater boxes in a 59 DD bus. Though I'm still dialing it in a bit, I'm very happy with this combo. Great low end, peppy around town and enough top end to quickly accelerate from 55-65 if needed.
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59 DD panel. Former Romano's TV delivery bus
67 Westy SO-42 pop-t |
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UK Luke 72
Samba Member
Joined: September 07, 2011
Posts: 2867
Location: Little Britain
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| Posted: Sat Jan 14, 2017 11:24 am Post subject: Re: 1835 camper engine |
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Ha yep well spotted, thick walls. 92mm case register, 94mm head so thiiiiiiiick walls
40IDFs to go on here, exhaust wise... It'd be nice to go for a full BAS system, been seriously eyeing them up, not sure yet...
Let's get ty long block built! |
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truckersmike
Elder Sambanite
Joined: March 16, 2001
Posts: 2025
Location: Bellingham, WA
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| Posted: Sat Jan 14, 2017 12:21 pm Post subject: Re: 1835 camper engine |
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BAS, and others like it, look really nice but WAY out of my price range. My current exhaust is 1.5" merged header with heater boxes. I'm on the hunt for a 1 3/8th's header which I think will be a better fit for my engine.
Looking forward to seeing your process!
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59 DD panel. Former Romano's TV delivery bus
67 Westy SO-42 pop-t |
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UK Luke 72
Samba Member
Joined: September 07, 2011
Posts: 2867
Location: Little Britain
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| Posted: Sat Jan 14, 2017 12:26 pm Post subject: Re: 1835 camper engine |
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Yeah I imagine a generic 1 3/8 will be used, certainly short term... We'll see, I just worked a lot of hours over Christmas and New Year  |
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Alstrup
Samba Member
Joined: July 12, 2007
Posts: 7210
Location: Videbaek Denmark
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| Posted: Sat Jan 14, 2017 1:49 pm Post subject: Re: 1835 camper engine |
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For a bus you want this: http://www.ahnendorp.com/Beetle-typ-1-engineparts-...-1828.html In the correct model for your vehichle of course.
- up to 15% more usable torque where you need it compared to a regular header. AND nice and quiet.
When we built an old school 1776 sgl port bus engine a couple of years back we focused a good deal on both hp to put some of the local naysayers to the wall, but of course also to get decent midrange power out of it. We used a regular 1 3/8" header and then made out own Tee for the use of 2 Citroen BX mufflers, one on each side. We spent a little time with getting the Tee correct cone from the flange to a 2" pipe to the mufflers, going back down again to 1 3/4" into the mufflers. It worked really well, but at the end of the day it - did - cost some lower midrange torque. No pictures sorry. We forgot to take some .
T
Last edited by Alstrup on Sat Jan 14, 2017 2:32 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Danwvw
Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2012
Posts: 8892
Location: Oregon Coast
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| Posted: Sat Jan 14, 2017 2:12 pm Post subject: Re: 1835 camper engine |
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| UK Luke 72 wrote: |
Finally some progress on these builds so here goes.
Used AS41 line bored first over and thrust cut.
92mm AA hyper eutectic piston set 'A'
AA stock length cylinders
CB 69mm crank
Forged 8 dowel flywheel
Vw gland nut
Kennedy stage 1 and daiken disc
Khultek 5.4" I beams with 3/8 bolts
Web 218/119 on EP12 billet with Scat lightweight lifters with grooved oilways
Empi adjustable helical gears
Silver line double thrust cam bearings
Silver line mains and rod bearings
Shadek 26mm oil pump
Mofoco 35x32 040 fresh from Roy
Stock pushrods
Stock rockers bolt up shafts
Jaycee tubes
Shooting for 0.050” deck ~8.5:1 Cr
Pics incoming once I work out how to host on here...
As always thoughts, comments and suggestions all welcome
Luke |
Sounds like a nice combination, But consider 1968cc's:
Used AS41 line bored first over and thrust cut machine for full flow oiling
92mm AA hyper eutectic piston set 'A'
AA stock length cylinders
CB 69mm crank 4340 Forged Chromoly Super Race 74mm Crank
Forged 8 dowel flywheel
Vw gland nut
Kennedy stage 1 and daiken disc
Khultek 5.4" I beams with 3/8 bolts CB 5.325" Super Race Type 1 H-Beam Rods from CB
Web 218/119 on EP12 billet with Scat lightweight lifters with grooved oilways
Empi adjustable helical gears
Silver line double thrust cam bearings
Silver line mains and rod bearings
Shadek 26mm oil pump with full flow remote oil filter Adapter with Steel Cover
Mofoco 35x32 040 fresh from Roy
Stock pushrods
Stock rockers bolt up shafts Scat Solid Rocker Shafts
Jaycee tubes Stainless Steel Racing PushRod Tubes
Shooting for 0.050” 0.030" deck ~8.5:1 Cr
Since the WebCam 218/119 is too much cam for a single carb consider, Dual Dells 36's with 30 or 32mm venturi's.
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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths! |
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SBD
Samba Member
Joined: October 24, 2012
Posts: 3269
Location: SOUTH DAKOTA
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| Posted: Sat Jan 14, 2017 2:13 pm Post subject: Re: 1835 camper engine |
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Straight from the website, "The noise is very dump, but not to loud!" 
_________________
"Just $99 down and $64 a month for 36 months buys you a brand new Volkswagen Beetle!"
| mark tucker wrote: |
| I wouldent waste $ or thyme on building a small motor. build it big so it dosent have to work hard.remember it's only as fast as your foot alows it to be unless you build a small turd then it just stinks as it squishes up through your toes when you step on it. |
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bugguy1967
Samba Member
Joined: January 16, 2008
Posts: 4341
Location: Los Angeles, CA 90016
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| Posted: Sat Jan 14, 2017 2:18 pm Post subject: Re: 1835 camper engine |
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Why expensive JayCee tubes and stock pushrods?? Put your money where it counts; buy aluminum pushrods that you can cut to the apprpriate length for proper geometry. CB has windage tubes for about $20.
Also, cut your cylinders to get a tighter deck, like .050, and have your chambers reworked for the amount of compression you'll need (without a step). You'll benefit in power by improving squish, and unshrouding your intake valve for better cylinder filling. If the 050s don't come with it, opt to get your seats blended into the ports on the intake side. |
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Alstrup
Samba Member
Joined: July 12, 2007
Posts: 7210
Location: Videbaek Denmark
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| Posted: Sat Jan 14, 2017 2:41 pm Post subject: Re: 1835 camper engine |
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Straight from the website, "The noise is very dump, but not to loud!"
- Yeah, I noticed that too. Not sure what he meant by that(?) 
I kinda agree. With that cam and set up there is not really any need for fancy pushrods. Stock will do just fine.
Stock rockers, bolted shafts, fine. I would however swop to Porsche style adjusters.
0,030" deck is too risky and there is no real benefit from it... Stay at 0,040 to 0,047" That is good and safe.
T |
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UK Luke 72
Samba Member
Joined: September 07, 2011
Posts: 2867
Location: Little Britain
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| Posted: Sat Jan 14, 2017 3:17 pm Post subject: Re: 1835 camper engine |
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I already have everything listed in the OP so no change to rods or crank, it's all balanced now too
I didn't add the full flow bits but yeah that will be going on, just not pulled the trigger on a cooler yet. I have a Gene Berg oil pump cover, is that any use?
I have some Jaycee PR tubes on the shelf... Thought why not but you're right... Needless expense. they can be saved for another or sold on...
Already have 40 IDFs too.
We'll see what the heads come out like, I have asked Roy to unshroud the chambers to the cylinder walls so fingers crossed they're ready to go
Don't like <0.040" deck btw... Case has been decked so I'm expecting shims, we will mock up and go from there. If needs be I will buy cut to length aluminium pushrods but if I can get the geo on with stock that'd suit me. |
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Alstrup
Samba Member
Joined: July 12, 2007
Posts: 7210
Location: Videbaek Denmark
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| Posted: Sat Jan 14, 2017 3:43 pm Post subject: Re: 1835 camper engine |
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Don´t use the stock PR´s with that cam. The intake side lifts higher than the tips will handle. You end up killing the tips real fast.
T |
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Danwvw
Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2012
Posts: 8892
Location: Oregon Coast
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| Posted: Sat Jan 14, 2017 8:11 pm Post subject: Re: 1835 camper engine |
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| UK Luke 72 wrote: |
I didn't add the full flow bits but yeah that will be going on, just not pulled the trigger on a cooler yet. I have a Gene Berg oil pump cover, is that any use?
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Oh, that Gene Berg oil pump cover will be really nice. Better! Yeah, I didn't stop and think about those push-rods the stock ones hit even on my Webcam 163 which is only .420" or so lift at the valve, they do work at my lift but the rocker is digging into the two I have on my engine just a little, not bad.
I did not run an external oil cooler and my bus engine the (1800cc Type 1) Below does not seem to need it. The MOFOCO 40 Heads should be good heads, I would have them port matched to the IDF Manifolds. Probably those heads will need at least Single HD springs etc...
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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths! |
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UK Luke 72
Samba Member
Joined: September 07, 2011
Posts: 2867
Location: Little Britain
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| Posted: Sat Jan 21, 2017 4:37 pm Post subject: Re: 1835 camper engine |
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| I think I will run a cooler, just to be on the safe side seeing as the Mrs will be driving it more than me... Hope the Mofoco Heads come good! yeah I have some untouched IDF manifolds ready to match up when the heads arrive |
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modok
Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2009
Posts: 26777
Location: Colorado Springs
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| Posted: Sat Jan 21, 2017 5:11 pm Post subject: Re: 1835 camper engine |
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That's true, stock pushrods and rockers will probably bind.
it is possible in some cases to grind the rockers to allow more travel, but I think most people would not do it, besides me  |
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UK Luke 72
Samba Member
Joined: September 07, 2011
Posts: 2867
Location: Little Britain
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| Posted: Sat Apr 15, 2017 7:07 am Post subject: Re: 1835 camper engine |
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So I've finally been making progress on those engine, got some OE 8mm head studs cleaned up and ready for action
[img][/img]
And now the short block is all together I have managed to get some DH measurements to work out the CR.
[img][/img]
[img][/img]
0.72x/0.73mm on the 3/4 side.
50cc chambers from Roy and a 0.75mm barrel spacer for the ~1.475mm deck will give me 8.67:1.
I expect this to be slightly off as I've never seen a barrel spacer in spec but I'll get them ordered and see how they mic up. |
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ach60 
Samba Member
Joined: May 14, 2001
Posts: 4139
Location: Santa Maria
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| Posted: Sat Apr 15, 2017 6:12 pm Post subject: Re: 1835 camper engine |
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| UK Luke 72 wrote: |
I already have everything listed in the OP so no change to rods or crank, it's all balanced now too
I didn't add the full flow bits but yeah that will be going on, just not pulled the trigger on a cooler yet. I have a Gene Berg oil pump cover, is that any use?
I have some Jaycee PR tubes on the shelf... Thought why not but you're right... Needless expense. they can be saved for another or sold on...
Already have 40 IDFs too.
We'll see what the heads come out like, I have asked Roy to unshroud the chambers to the cylinder walls so fingers crossed they're ready to go
Don't like <0.040" deck btw... Case has been decked so I'm expecting shims, we will mock up and go from there. If needs be I will buy cut to length aluminium pushrods but if I can get the geo on with stock that'd suit me. |
| UK Luke 72 wrote: |
So I've finally been making progress on those engine, got some OE 8mm head studs cleaned up and ready for action
[img][/img]
And now the short block is all together I have managed to get some DH measurements to work out the CR.
[img][/img]
[img][/img]
0.72x/0.73mm on the 3/4 side.
50cc chambers from Roy and a 0.75mm barrel spacer for the ~1.475mm deck will give me 8.67:1.
I expect this to be slightly off as I've never seen a barrel spacer in spec but I'll get them ordered and see how they mic up. |
That's a great photo of your head & cylinder, the chamber looks great.
I too saw the JC Jaycee PR tubes at a VW show and decided I wanted them (I haven't installed them yet.),
yes they were expensive for what they do, but I like the idea of the ability of fixing leaking a push rod tube.
I was kind of shocked to see someone suggest a .030 deck height,
your 1.475mm equals .058" deck which is good, but you know that already.
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Good Luck
Al |
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UK Luke 72
Samba Member
Joined: September 07, 2011
Posts: 2867
Location: Little Britain
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| Posted: Sun Apr 16, 2017 3:01 am Post subject: Re: 1835 camper engine |
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| Thanks Ach, I kinda want to unshroud the valves a little more to give me a couple of extra CC so I can have the shims ground down 0.010" or so and get closer to the 0.040-0.047" Alstrup recommends but I'll get the 1-2 side mocked up and maybe swap some bits around... The 8.6:1 I currently have seems perfect so perhaps I shouldn't get too involved and just run it at 1.475mm |
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Alstrup
Samba Member
Joined: July 12, 2007
Posts: 7210
Location: Videbaek Denmark
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| Posted: Sun Apr 16, 2017 3:58 am Post subject: Re: 1835 camper engine |
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If the alternative is 9-1 with a tighter deck I´d take that over 8,6 with 1,47 mm deck. Then you can limit the ignition with a degree or two if it should become a problem. It wohnt as long as youre staying on the main island, but if you take it to Spain or Italy in mid summer the cooling needs to be perfect and the octane good. - They have good fuel these places so its not a problem.
T |
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