Official Fuel injection questions thread

[busdaddy]

[busdaddy]

[Root_Werks]

[busdaddy]

[sb001]

[VW_Jimbo]

[sb001]

[Root_Werks]

12mm is too small, this the larger 19mm that needs at least one 90 degree bend from the oil filler base. Otherwise it'll surely kink trying to bend before the intake runner.

I like the spring idea and will give it a shot, thanks!

With my kinks, it's allowing too much pressure buildup in the case = oily mess.
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When I set my timing, why do I flush, then take a pee?

[VW_Jimbo]

[Root_Werks]

Crank Breather Hose Spring worked, thanks for the tip!
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When I set my timing, why do I flush, then take a pee?

[L51C_75]

Does anybody know if fuel injectors from a water cooled Vanagon would work with a l-jet set up for a beetle. Just wondering if I were to build a higher capacity engine and needed bigger injectors if this would be an option. It is my understanding from Ratwell's site that Type 4 bus and Beetle injectors are the same, so maybe Vanagon injectors will flow more?

[busdaddy]

There's multiple charts comparing various Bosch injectors online with specifications and flow rates, get your Google on.
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[pbnj]

So, my 77 FI vert is running fine. However as the temp starts to drop, it has issues on cold ( sub 40) mornings. Another issue if it is one at all, is that it is a bit sluggish between 3rd and 4th. On the highway, it can hit about 70 mph but will slow down 5mph or more when hits a moderate hill. I am just curious if this is normal for the FI, or if there are things i can do to correct these items.Thanks in advance.
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1977 Super Convertible

[busdaddy]

The performance doesn't sound all that wrong, it's only a 1600 afterall.
Cold starting could be vacuum leaks, temp sensor #2 (TS2) or an issue in the CSV system, or even a weak ignition system.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

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[pbnj]

thanks. I read in someones post that they cleaned their AFM and go a bit more performance out of it. I have no history on mine as i don't know what number owner I am. At least number 3. The AFM appears to have been glued at some point as there is residue. MY engine is a 79 according to the engine number, and someone added electronic ignition to it as well. I have had it just over two years, and engine wise i ( with assistance) replaced the alternator , the fuel pump. Its probably time to adjust the valves. thanks again
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1977 Super Convertible

[VW_Jimbo]

[pbnj]

haven't looked at the plugs in about a year. last time i looked they looked ok. I have spares if i need to replace them. Is the coil issue the same if its running a flamethrower EI system? thanks for the reply
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1977 Super Convertible

[busdaddy]

Well it sounds like tune up time, start with that and see if it makes a difference. The AFM must move freely, cleaning it carefully won't hurt, but usually a bad AFM causes bucking. Careful if you remove the lid, the tracks on the printed circuit board are delicate and the board must remain in the exact spot it was calibrated in. The glue used to reattach the cover can also damage the guts, regular RTV gives off a corrosive gas for example. RTV for electronics or the fishtank stuff is safer.
If someone has been messing in there the mixtures may be off, you'll need a AFR meter (LM1, etc..) to calibrate it properly.

The electronic points replacement modules sometimes produce a waveform that messes with the ECU, try a set of points one day when you have nothing better to do and see if it makes a difference.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

[Bennym777]

Digifant question: have a hesitation when pulling away in first. This is usually when engine is cold. I can avoid it by building the revs slowly, but a normal blip of the throttle and it stumbles back to idle rpm after trying to climb.

[VW_Jimbo]

Sounds like a vacuum leak or low fuel pressure.

Check for spark and compression first to rule those two variables first. Then measure fuel pressure and volume. Correct if needed.

If spark and ignition are good, check for a vacuum leak. Good visual inspection, followed by shooting small amounts of starting fluid around intake manifold connections. There can be a vacuum leak in the crankcase to, due to the design of the intake manifold. You can remove the oil fill cap to check. Car will die very quickly if sucking air in through the crankcase, and have semi foulded plugs.

If no vacuum leaks are found, check the fuel pressure and fuel volume.
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Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!