| Author |
Message |
MuzzcoVW
Samba Member
Joined: February 21, 2018
Posts: 1475
Location: Westfield, MA.
|
 Posted: Wed Jul 22, 2020 7:36 pm Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread |
 |
|
| muggermackaye wrote: |
| unitedracing wrote: |
| Good Morning! I built a 1679 that will be out on the road this weekend for it's first (well technically second) test drive. It isn't a huge increase but about 100 over stock (stock 1583) I had talked to a couple people on here that have run up to 1915cc with no issues except for having to remap the AFM. Remember, this is the exact same system used on 2.0L busses. I went with what I call standard sized valve heads (remember the FI bug used 1300 size valves) and an Eagle 2280 cam. I will let you know the results but the initial test around the neighborhood was very promising, lots of torque! I need to reset my AFM as its running lean just with the small displacement increase. They all seem to have been tuned really lean from the factory anyway for emissions, probably why there were issues running when they first came out. |
curious how your test drives went? any adjustments needed?
Is that true about the smaller valve heads on FI models. I didnt know that. I wonder what a good size would be for the stroker Im considering? |
Also if it were me I wouldn't go any larger than what the carburetor did engines used as far as valve size. There's really not much of a point because the air induction side is only so large. My goal was to maximize what was available and increase the torque |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Neko_Shi
Samba Member
Joined: June 12, 2020
Posts: 15
Location: Mississippi
|
| Posted: Mon Aug 03, 2020 7:41 pm Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread |
|
|
| I think this also falls under stupid question. But someone said to me that the Weber idf 40 could only be used on fuel injection systems. Is that correct? |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51153
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
|
| Posted: Mon Aug 03, 2020 9:18 pm Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread |
|
|
| Neko_Shi wrote: |
| I think this also falls under stupid question. But someone said to me that the Weber idf 40 could only be used on fuel injection systems. Is that correct? |
Not without replacing every part of the induction and exhaust system, technically yes, but why?
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Neko_Shi
Samba Member
Joined: June 12, 2020
Posts: 15
Location: Mississippi
|
| Posted: Mon Aug 03, 2020 9:23 pm Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread |
|
|
| busdaddy wrote: |
| Neko_Shi wrote: |
| I think this also falls under stupid question. But someone said to me that the Weber idf 40 could only be used on fuel injection systems. Is that correct? |
Not without replacing every part of the induction and exhaust system, technically yes, but why? |
I finally picked out a carb for my bug, that is not fuel injected, and was thrown that curve ball. I just want to be sure I don't need to start over with carb selecting. I'm trying to give it a little more umf but not go to crazy, but still leave myself room for more hp later. If I decide to go crazy. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
MuzzcoVW
Samba Member
Joined: February 21, 2018
Posts: 1475
Location: Westfield, MA.
|
| Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2020 3:21 am Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread |
|
|
| muggermackaye wrote: |
| unitedracing wrote: |
| Good Morning! I built a 1679 that will be out on the road this weekend for it's first (well technically second) test drive. It isn't a huge increase but about 100 over stock (stock 1583) I had talked to a couple people on here that have run up to 1915cc with no issues except for having to remap the AFM. Remember, this is the exact same system used on 2.0L busses. I went with what I call standard sized valve heads (remember the FI bug used 1300 size valves) and an Eagle 2280 cam. I will let you know the results but the initial test around the neighborhood was very promising, lots of torque! I need to reset my AFM as its running lean just with the small displacement increase. They all seem to have been tuned really lean from the factory anyway for emissions, probably why there were issues running when they first came out. |
curious how your test drives went? any adjustments needed?
Is that true about the smaller valve heads on FI models. I didnt know that. I wonder what a good size would be for the stroker Im considering? |
Good morning! Well, I have a couple test drives in now. There are a couple things I need to address before a long drive such as a rattle in the tunnel but it's running excellent! You asked if any adjustments were needed, yes they were. with the cam and displacement increase I had to make a simple adjustment to the AFM. So far I had to richen the static adjustment (the one that makes an increase throughout the rpm range). Still need to run it up to highway speeds. I may tweak the dynamic adjustment if it seems to lean out under load/acceleration. I fully expected to have to make these adjustments as these were tuned on the ragged edge of lean from the factory. Years ago we discovered this on a friends 77. It felt like we added a cylinder after tuning the flap! And I went with the factory valve size for a carbed engine. From reserch and advice I wouldn't go larger. It can mess up the vacuum signal in the intake. I can tell you that with mine the torque and power improvement in general is impressive. I have a counterweighted crankshaft also btw |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
muggermackaye
Samba Member
Joined: June 29, 2020
Posts: 87
Location: CO
|
| Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2020 9:36 am Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread |
|
|
| unitedracing wrote: |
| Good morning! Well, I have a couple test drives in now. There are a couple things I need to address before a long drive such as a rattle in the tunnel but it's running excellent! You asked if any adjustments were needed, yes they were. with the cam and displacement increase I had to make a simple adjustment to the AFM. So far I had to richen the static adjustment (the one that makes an increase throughout the rpm range). Still need to run it up to highway speeds. I may tweak the dynamic adjustment if it seems to lean out under load/acceleration. I fully expected to have to make these adjustments as these were tuned on the ragged edge of lean from the factory. Years ago we discovered this on a friends 77. It felt like we added a cylinder after tuning the flap! And I went with the factory valve size for a carbed engine. From reserch and advice I wouldn't go larger. It can mess up the vacuum signal in the intake. I can tell you that with mine the torque and power improvement in general is impressive. I have a counterweighted crankshaft also btw |
Great info. Thanks so much. Its a coincidence that you brought up the mixture adjustment. I too have been able to drive my car a bit lately and decided to inspect my new plugs after a few hundred mile; It appears I'm running a rich. I assume this is due to the factory mixture setting and the fact that I am at 5200 feet driving up to 7000 feet. I'm not going to mess with the mixture just yet but I have been looking every where to find instructions on how to perform the static and dynamic adjustments. Ive called nearly every mechanic and VW shop in the state and no one makes these adjustments with a analyzer as the Bentley manual suggests, in fact 2 of the most reputable shops in the area told me to switch to a carburetor. If I want to run FI, I'm on my own it appears.
On the topic of the valve size. Im pretty set on a stroker crank. I figured if I'm buying pistons, cylinders and heads why not increase the bore? So if I went with 90.5 pistons that would give me about 1904 CC's. At my elevation and the type of driving I do, the added torque and hp will be very welcome. Most carb folks would probably run 40 X 35.5 valves for this setup or bigger. Do you still think 35.5x32 (i believe that's carb stock sizing) valves would be a good choice for the 1904cc engine setup for fuel injection? The heads I was looking at were actually 37.5x32 to accommodate the larger displacement. Too much?
Anyway, thanks for sharing and please keep us posted on further developments! |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Gr0unded
Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2018
Posts: 256
Location: North Carolina
|
| Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2020 11:05 am Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread |
|
|
| unitedracing wrote: |
| muggermackaye wrote: |
| unitedracing wrote: |
| Good Morning! I built a 1679 that will be out on the road this weekend for it's first (well technically second) test drive. It isn't a huge increase but about 100 over stock (stock 1583) I had talked to a couple people on here that have run up to 1915cc with no issues except for having to remap the AFM. Remember, this is the exact same system used on 2.0L busses. I went with what I call standard sized valve heads (remember the FI bug used 1300 size valves) and an Eagle 2280 cam. I will let you know the results but the initial test around the neighborhood was very promising, lots of torque! I need to reset my AFM as its running lean just with the small displacement increase. They all seem to have been tuned really lean from the factory anyway for emissions, probably why there were issues running when they first came out. |
curious how your test drives went? any adjustments needed?
Is that true about the smaller valve heads on FI models. I didnt know that. I wonder what a good size would be for the stroker Im considering? |
Good morning! Well, I have a couple test drives in now. There are a couple things I need to address before a long drive such as a rattle in the tunnel but it's running excellent! You asked if any adjustments were needed, yes they were. with the cam and displacement increase I had to make a simple adjustment to the AFM. So far I had to richen the static adjustment (the one that makes an increase throughout the rpm range). Still need to run it up to highway speeds. I may tweak the dynamic adjustment if it seems to lean out under load/acceleration. I fully expected to have to make these adjustments as these were tuned on the ragged edge of lean from the factory. Years ago we discovered this on a friends 77. It felt like we added a cylinder after tuning the flap! And I went with the factory valve size for a carbed engine. From reserch and advice I wouldn't go larger. It can mess up the vacuum signal in the intake. I can tell you that with mine the torque and power improvement in general is impressive. I have a counterweighted crankshaft also btw |
Thanks for sharing. I'm curious what you experienced running the FI on the new engine before any adjustments were made. Did you use an O2 sensor or an analyzer?
_________________
B r i a n
1976 VW Type 1 Beetle - Standard
Stop Dead Photo Links! Post your VW photos to the Samba Gallery! |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
VW_Jimbo 
Samba Member
Joined: May 22, 2016
Posts: 9967
Location: Huntington Beach, CA
|
| Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2020 9:31 pm Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread |
|
|
Hey there! I just recently went through a 77 restore and went through a few of the AFM internal adjustments. Another member also added a link to another website. It is all towards the bottom of page 5.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...p;start=80
_________________
Jimbo
There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!
| TDCTDI wrote: |
| Basically, a whole bunch of fuckery to achieve a look. |
| 67rustavenger wrote: |
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!  |
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
muggermackaye
Samba Member
Joined: June 29, 2020
Posts: 87
Location: CO
|
| Posted: Wed Aug 05, 2020 11:19 am Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread |
|
|
United, Jimbo, and other FI gurus,
I've been talking with an engine builder who really likes to use the 78 stroker crank, I think because, with B pistons, it gets you right to stock deck height? not entirely sure about that, I haven't done the math, but it makes sense.
Anyway, We're discussing a potential build that would include a 78 stroker crank and 90.5 piston: This would bring the motor to just over 2000 cc. The plan would be to use a mild cam (bigger than stock but mild) and not increase the valve size much over carb specs: 37.5 x 32. I know united suggested staying with 35x32 heads max, but I have read about guys putting 41x34 heads on their type 2, 2.0L which has essentially the same FI setup. fwiw, This would also have some other performance goodies like balanced crank and lightened flywheels etc.
I feel like going smaller with the heads might just be a waste of time and money with this displacement. Might even not like itself much?
I put together the shopping list for my ideal build, with a smaller stroke, but I'm not sure I can take on a full rebuild project this winter. The costs for this experienced and respected builder to build a long block for me is probably worth my peace of mind and sanity (and not straining my relationship with the wife any further)
Is this flat out too big for the L-jet system? Or will it run like a champ 
Last edited by muggermackaye on Wed Aug 05, 2020 2:06 pm; edited 1 time in total |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Gr0unded
Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2018
Posts: 256
Location: North Carolina
|
| Posted: Wed Aug 05, 2020 12:20 pm Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread |
|
|
| muggermackaye wrote: |
United, Jimbo, and other FI gurus,
I've been talking with an engine builder who really likes to use the 78 stroker crank, I think because, with B pistons, it gets you right to stock deck height? not entirely sure about that, I haven't done the math, but it makes sense.
Anyway, We're discussing a potential build that would include a 78 stroker crank and 90.5 piston: This would bring the motor to just over 2000 cc. The plan would be to use a mild cam (bigger than stock but mild) and not increase the valve size much over carb specs: 37.5 x 32. I know united suggested staying with 35.5x32 heads max, but I have read about guys putting 41x34 heads on their type 2, 2.0L which has essentially the same FI setup. fwiw, This would also have some other performance goodies like balanced crank and lightened flywheels etc.
I feel like going smaller with the heads might just be a waste of time and money with this displacement. Might even not like itself much?
I put together the shopping list for my ideal build, with a smaller stroke, but I'm not sure I can take on a full rebuild project this winter. The costs for this experienced and respected builder to build a long block for me is probably worth my peace of mind and sanity (and not straining my relationship with the wife any further)
Is this flat out too big for the L-jet system? Or will it run like a champ |
Muggermackaye,
I inquired into this as well as far as engine size the L-jet can handle. I have done lots and lots of reading here on the Samba as well as ShopTalk concerning this topic, some good interesting reading. I've also been talking with John Connolly, he has told me he built a 2110cc motor back in the 80s using the stock L-jet FI and a merged header that ran great in a '77 Beetle according to his experience. The engine begins to really wake up by upgrading the exhaust to larger diameter tubes, etc.
Just another example, the new long block in my '76 has an 1800cc motor, (74mm crank x 88mm thick wall pistons) with L3 heads, 2280 cheater cam and stock exhaust. The engine runs great, feels like it has more torque than before. Keep in mind, this new engine has broken in fully so I need some more drive time before I can say just how much more power it has. Although, it seems to run just fine I really want to make sure the Air Fuel ratio is not too lean. The engine isn't backfiring, nor does it smell like its running rich. Finding an analyzer in this town hasn't been easy. If anybody knows of someone in the greater area of Charlotte, NC with an exhaust gas analyzer, shoot me a message!
And on that note, I was curious about Unitedracing's experience in making the adjustment. Was he using an instrument to help dial in the AFM settings to ensure it isn't running too lean or rich?
And thanks Jimbo for sharing that link. I keep forgetting the bus / vanagon models have tons of model years utilizing the Bosch AFM.
_________________
B r i a n
1976 VW Type 1 Beetle - Standard
Stop Dead Photo Links! Post your VW photos to the Samba Gallery! |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
muggermackaye
Samba Member
Joined: June 29, 2020
Posts: 87
Location: CO
|
| Posted: Wed Aug 05, 2020 2:01 pm Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread |
|
|
| Gr0unded wrote: |
Just another example, the new long block in my '76 has an 1800cc motor, (74mm crank x 88mm thick wall pistons) with L3 heads, 2280 cheater cam and stock exhaust. The engine runs great, feels like it has more torque than before. Keep in mind, this new engine has broken in fully so I need some more drive time before I can say just how much more power it has. Although, it seems to run just fine I really want to make sure the Air Fuel ratio is not too lean. The engine isn't backfiring, nor does it smell like its running rich. Finding an analyzer in this town hasn't been easy. . |
Thank you Grounded. Your engine is actually the direction I wanted to take initially (basically the "no machine" engine combo on aircooled.net.) Did you use the 5.325" rods? I considered up-sizing to 90.5 pistons instead of 88's because the heads need boring regardless.
Anywho... When I put together the parts list and added in the cost of the line bore of the original cases, the piston balancing once they are clearanced, and misc lube, sealants, & tools, I was approaching the cost of a decent long block. That cost (plus other life factors) lead me to reach out to the builder. But again, he seems to favor the 78 crank, and 88 pistons don't come in the B variety, so basically the smallest stroker he can build is the 2007 cc. I think it's because they have some economy of costs with these parts. He'll probably build whatever I want, but I told him I have a budget, and he's trying to work with that.
Thanks for sharing your motor experience and your research. I've been doing the same. Interested in what the other blokes have to say too. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
muggermackaye
Samba Member
Joined: June 29, 2020
Posts: 87
Location: CO
|
| Posted: Thu Aug 06, 2020 2:15 pm Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread |
|
|
| muggermackaye wrote: |
United, Jimbo, and other FI gurus,
I've been talking with an engine builder who really likes to use the 78 stroker crank, I think because, with B pistons, it gets you right to stock deck height? not entirely sure about that, I haven't done the math, but it makes sense.
Anyway, We're discussing a potential build that would include a 78 stroker crank and 90.5 piston: This would bring the motor to just over 2000 cc. The plan would be to use a mild cam (bigger than stock but mild) and not increase the valve size much over carb specs: 37.5 x 32. I know united suggested staying with 35x32 heads max, but I have read about guys putting 41x34 heads on their type 2, 2.0L which has essentially the same FI setup. fwiw, This would also have some other performance goodies like balanced crank and lightened flywheels etc.
I feel like going smaller with the heads might just be a waste of time and money with this displacement. Might even not like itself much?
I put together the shopping list for my ideal build, with a smaller stroke, but I'm not sure I can take on a full rebuild project this winter. The costs for this experienced and respected builder to build a long block for me is probably worth my peace of mind and sanity (and not straining my relationship with the wife any further)
Is this flat out too big for the L-jet system? Or will it run like a champ |
Just an update for those who are curious. I received a message from the engine builder and he suggested, like @unitedracing, that the carb spec stock heads would be better for the FI motor. Although I wont be realizing the full potential of the new displacement, the added CC's should still translate to some degree. That was good news because I really don't want to put the time and money in only to be left wanting for more. I sent him a rough build sheet to see if he agrees with the details. When we get the final specs worked out, Ill post the final build sheet.
Last edited by muggermackaye on Thu Aug 06, 2020 7:59 pm; edited 1 time in total |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Gr0unded
Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2018
Posts: 256
Location: North Carolina
|
| Posted: Thu Aug 06, 2020 4:09 pm Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread |
|
|
| muggermackaye wrote: |
Thank you Grounded. Your engine is actually the direction I wanted to take initially (basically the "no machine" engine combo on aircooled.net.) Did you use the 5.325" rods? I considered up-sizing to 90.5 pistons instead of 88's because the heads need boring regardless.
Anywho... When I put together the parts list and added in the cost of the line bore of the original cases, the piston balancing once they are clearanced, and misc lube, sealants, & tools, I was approaching the cost of a decent long block. That cost (plus other life factors) lead me to reach out to the builder. But again, he seems to favor the 78 crank, and 88 pistons don't come in the B variety, so basically the smallest stroker he can build is the 2007 cc. I think it's because they have some economy of costs with these parts. He'll probably build whatever I want, but I told him I have a budget, and he's trying to work with that.
Thanks for sharing your motor experience and your research. I've been doing the same. Interested in what the other blokes have to say too. |
Muggermackaye,
I didn't know right off what the rod size was, had to grab the build sheet. It indicated the rods are 5.394". L3 heads have the 35.5 x 32 sizes. The compression ratio is 8.5:1. I am really impressed with the way this engine has turned out, great quality.
The other aspect of this engine combination was to squeeze more mpgs out. Hopefully over the new few thousand miles to see how that turns out, but mainly to enjoy it.
_________________
B r i a n
1976 VW Type 1 Beetle - Standard
Stop Dead Photo Links! Post your VW photos to the Samba Gallery! |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Gr0unded
Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2018
Posts: 256
Location: North Carolina
|
| Posted: Fri Sep 25, 2020 10:14 am Post subject: Re: 1978 VW Superbeetle Fuel Pump voltage |
|
|
| busdaddy wrote: |
| corkywillis wrote: |
| I have a 1978 VW Superbeetle FI and am only getting 9.5 volts to the fuel pump. Double relay seems to be good and fuel pump is new and works when I put 12 volts to it off the car. Will the pump run on 9.5 voltage with the car being a 12 volt system ? I cant hear if it runs while cranking the engine. Can anyone help? |
Measure the voltage at 88d on the double relay when the AFM flap is depressed and the key is on. That's a really long wire up to the pump, and it goes through a couple connections, the voltage must be going somewhere. |
For the past couple of months, been breaking in the new long block on the beetle by maintain steady speeds 50mph or below. After the initial break-in, oil change, valve adjustment, added more effort to the driving cycle. It was figured, the car is running great so let's get on the highway for a little bit of 60-65mph speeds. It turns out after just a few minutes the car begins to lose power or hiccup. I tried, at first, just slowing down to 50-55mph to see if it clears up to which it did. The car did not want to go any faster when the pedal was mashed to the floor, instead it resisted by going slower. Other than that, the car runs/idles great....even spirited acceleration from a stop to 50mph doesn't miss a beat.
I tried measuring the voltage at the fuel pump, at idle it reads 10.3V. The pump does run at 10.3V, but that seems a bit low to me not allowing the pump to its full potential. So, I went back to the double relay and checked the voltage to the blue/red wire and it reads 13.3V which matches the large red wire coming into the double relay. Between the double relay and the fuel pump 3 volts is lost. I looked in the trunk and found a couple of connecting points for the fuel pump circuit to be kind of warm to the touch...heat meaning energy is dissipating. I tried looking through the Samba to see if anyone else has had this trouble, all I could find was "corkywillis's" post.
I can't seem to find anything about the Bosch fuel pump for operating specifications. Does anyone have insight to the pump specs for running current, voltage operating range? I imagine when the car is brand new the voltage at the pump was likely 12V or better.
Short of providing a brand new wire from the double relay to the fuel pump, less work for me would be adding a relay to a good 12V source at the fuse box nearby.
_________________
B r i a n
1976 VW Type 1 Beetle - Standard
Stop Dead Photo Links! Post your VW photos to the Samba Gallery! |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
PuddleRainbow
Samba Member
Joined: April 13, 2018
Posts: 288
Location: The Dirtiest Of Jersey
|
| Posted: Fri Sep 25, 2020 11:12 am Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread |
|
|
Hi Brian,
Every problem I had I went right to fuel pressure/flow. I finally got a fuel pressure gauge and plumbed in the provided permanent test port past the pressure regulator. Well worth the $50 or so bucks. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ANM-CP7838
I'll check my voltage this evening for comparison
Jeff |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51153
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
|
| Posted: Fri Sep 25, 2020 12:07 pm Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread |
|
|
It's going to be a little bit of a challenge looking at that gauge while doing 55+ 
On buses we use a few feet of fuel line and zip tie the gauge somewhere that's visible in a mirror.
Grounded's issue sure sounds like fuel pressure or flow, the low voltage may be a factor (points for tracking down all the weak connections!), maybe coupled with an aging worn pump, and maybe some debris in the tank partially restricting the outlet. The extra wire up to the front may be the answer, especially if you add a relay and use the existing one to trigger it.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
PuddleRainbow
Samba Member
Joined: April 13, 2018
Posts: 288
Location: The Dirtiest Of Jersey
|
| Posted: Fri Sep 25, 2020 12:51 pm Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread |
|
|
Lol yes, but....
If the pump is not pushing 30 past the regulator at idle, confirmed pump problem.
My thought that if a pump problem, start up and acceleration from stop would be affected as well. Would there be enough residual pressure in the engine loop, say during a hard 2nd-3rd pull to 50mph, to mask a marginal operating fuel flow? Could be...Who knows.
The fuel consumption difference per minute between 50 and 65 mph (35mpg vs 30mpg or [(2.33gal/hour - 1.42 gal/hour) /60min] = 0.02 gal min = 3oz min.
All that to say, that if there is a pump problem, I defend my posture it should show on the gauge at idle.
Or I could be wrong, it's happened before....... |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Gr0unded
Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2018
Posts: 256
Location: North Carolina
|
| Posted: Fri Sep 25, 2020 1:49 pm Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread |
|
|
| busdaddy wrote: |
It's going to be a little bit of a challenge looking at that gauge while doing 55+
On buses we use a few feet of fuel line and zip tie the gauge somewhere that's visible in a mirror.
Grounded's issue sure sounds like fuel pressure or flow, the low voltage may be a factor (points for tracking down all the weak connections!), maybe coupled with an aging worn pump, and maybe some debris in the tank partially restricting the outlet. The extra wire up to the front may be the answer, especially if you add a relay and use the existing one to trigger it. |
It wasn't too long ago, maybe 3 months, I removed some debri that was in the fuel filter from the tank outlet. Then on top of that, a new fuel filter and new Bosch fuel pump was put in. That was before I knew what kind of voltage was at the pump. I replaced the old pump mainly because it was dang noisy! The new pump has been symphony quiet. I made a point to look inside of the tank through the sending unit hole on top to make sure all the debri was vacuumed out....if it should be clogged again *oy vey*.
It does make me curious if the new pump is running at 10.3V could be a problem or shorten its life?
Puddle, I've been meaning to get a fuel pressure tester for quite some time now. Thank you for a solid lead to one especially since it has a provision for a test port. I am curious what you'll find for voltage at the pump....would be nice to establish a similar base line for the aged wire systems.
_________________
B r i a n
1976 VW Type 1 Beetle - Standard
Stop Dead Photo Links! Post your VW photos to the Samba Gallery! |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
PuddleRainbow
Samba Member
Joined: April 13, 2018
Posts: 288
Location: The Dirtiest Of Jersey
|
| Posted: Fri Sep 25, 2020 2:37 pm Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread |
|
|
Hello, I just checked and I have 12.00 at the pump. It's not a very fair comparison after all, I just put in a brand new Bosch alternator three weeks ago and the pump is not factory so it may pump more or less.
I wonder if you ran in third gear at 35-40 for a couple mins and get the same symptom? I hope you do, If you don't I'm really stumped. I wonder if you are running out of spark? That's what I'm leaning to. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
PuddleRainbow
Samba Member
Joined: April 13, 2018
Posts: 288
Location: The Dirtiest Of Jersey
|
| Posted: Fri Sep 25, 2020 2:39 pm Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread |
|
|
| PS, when I bought the car, one of the PO ran a fused 12V hot from the fuseblock to the pump. Like Bdaddy said, that would be an easy test as well. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
