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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51154 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2022 4:01 pm Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread |
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Ain't new stuff fun!?!?
If you are brave you could shove a bar into the nipple and gently nudge it over a little, if you crack it there's JB weld or fuel tank repair putty I guess.....
Option B is give the body a few whacks where it touches and create a little clearance, either option is savage, but what can you do?
A less brutal way to bend the nipple may be to go at the metal on the tank near the side of the nipple and cave it in a little with a flat nosed punch, it'll take the nipple with it, even better if a helper puts pressure on a bar shoved into the nipple to guide it in the direction you desire. That method will also move it away from the body a bit. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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Lost69Convertible Samba Member
Joined: July 29, 2020 Posts: 447 Location: Rhode Island
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Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2022 7:25 pm Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread |
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plextor wrote: |
found the main vent hose sliced |
Assuming a shift in the tank position to fix the binding is limited by the mounting bolts:
You can also consider notching the flange of the tank near the mount bolts and shift the tank position. I did this on my Bug. To do so you must limit the material you remove to a zone outside the resistance weld. **Follow all std precautions to drain the tank and eliminate explosive vapors** _________________ 1956 Beetle Ragtop: My Father's car
1969 Beetle Convertible: My first car. I loved it, I lost it, and I never got over it.
1979 Super Beetle Convertible |
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VW_Jimbo Samba Member
Joined: May 22, 2016 Posts: 9967 Location: Huntington Beach, CA
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Posted: Tue Jul 19, 2022 7:54 am Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread |
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It looks like you could cut off 1/2” to 1” of the hose and get it move over some. Maybe enough to work? Cut it at the red line, or there abouts.
[/img] _________________ Jimbo
There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!
TDCTDI wrote: |
Basically, a whole bunch of fuckery to achieve a look. |
67rustavenger wrote: |
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo! |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51154 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Tue Jul 19, 2022 8:25 am Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread |
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I suspect the end of the nipple goes far past that line, the break looks like it was pinched between the end of the fitting and the body. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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Franklinstower Samba Member
Joined: September 21, 2006 Posts: 1896 Location: PNW
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Posted: Tue Jul 19, 2022 5:54 pm Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread |
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Question about cold start. So I've got my 75 standard really running great. Quite rewarding after it was neglected by the previous owner for the last 15 years.
On initial startup when cold, it starts and stays at a 700 RPM idle. So far it never starts high and drops (1500 down to 700). Is that normal for summer temperatures? I haven't done any testing to the tts, cold start valve, or aux air regulator because it's always started just fine, just at a low RPM.
Thanks, Paul _________________ '89 Westy - EJ25/22 Frank 4.44 5mt
'75 Miami Blue Sunroof FI Standard Bug |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51154 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Tue Jul 19, 2022 6:00 pm Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread |
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Franklinstower wrote: |
Question about cold start. So I've got my 75 standard really running great. Quite rewarding after it was neglected by the previous owner for the last 15 years.
On initial startup when cold, it starts and stays at a 700 RPM idle. So far it never starts high and drops (1500 down to 700). Is that normal for summer temperatures? I haven't done any testing to the tts, cold start valve, or aux air regulator because it's always started just fine, just at a low RPM.
Thanks, Paul |
Sounds like it's time to look through the AAR: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=645985&highlight=aar+opening _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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Franklinstower Samba Member
Joined: September 21, 2006 Posts: 1896 Location: PNW
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Posted: Tue Jul 19, 2022 6:11 pm Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread |
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I've got a spare from a 1.9 vanagon that I tested good. So you're saying the idle speed should be high for the first 30 seconds? (on first morning start regardless of ambient air temp) Does the tts heat the elememt in the aar based on the signal from the head temp sensor through the ecu? _________________ '89 Westy - EJ25/22 Frank 4.44 5mt
'75 Miami Blue Sunroof FI Standard Bug |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51154 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Tue Jul 19, 2022 6:45 pm Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread |
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Franklinstower wrote: |
I've got a spare from a 1.9 vanagon that I tested good. So you're saying the idle speed should be high for the first 30 seconds? (on first morning start regardless of ambient air temp) Does the tts heat the elememt in the aar based on the signal from the head temp sensor through the ecu? |
Highish, less so when it's warm out, but still noticeably faster than a hot start.
Cold weather starting is what really counts though, if it starts and stays running now you might just be better off leaving that sleeping dog alone. If it tries to quit when it's warm out dig in.
The AAR and head sensor are unrelated, the whole AAR system is a stand alone, as is the CSV and it's TTS system. The AAR gets power from the double relay when the fuel pump starts, the ground is connected to the ECU but in depth probing by a number of very qualified experts has shown it is just a constant ground path and the ECU in no way fiddles with the AAR signal. Maybe Bosch planned on future self adjusting?, but on our cars it's a dumb system that only rely's on ambient temps and heat from it's internal element, much like an automatic choke on a carb system. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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Franklinstower Samba Member
Joined: September 21, 2006 Posts: 1896 Location: PNW
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Posted: Tue Jul 19, 2022 7:06 pm Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread |
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Thanks king busdaddy!
I must say, this is the first fi bug I've owned, plenty of dual carbed bugs and buses and although it doesn't have a very much power, it is so smooth through all the rpm range! I just wished I could eek another 10-20 hp out of it!
I just put my spare aar on, eating dinner now and the 16 year old called dubs after dinner to go practice his stick shift driving, lol. I'll report back if this aar operates any differently. _________________ '89 Westy - EJ25/22 Frank 4.44 5mt
'75 Miami Blue Sunroof FI Standard Bug |
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MuzzcoVW Samba Member
Joined: February 21, 2018 Posts: 1477 Location: Westfield, MA.
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Posted: Wed Jul 20, 2022 4:04 am Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread |
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Franklinstower wrote: |
Thanks king busdaddy!
I must say, this is the first fi bug I've owned, plenty of dual carbed bugs and buses and although it doesn't have a very much power, it is so smooth through all the rpm range! I just wished I could eek another 10-20 hp out of it!
I just put my spare aar on, eating dinner now and the 16 year old called dubs after dinner to go practice his stick shift driving, lol. I'll report back if this aar operates any differently. |
I'm building a 1904cc stroker for my '75 bug using the factory F.I. When I get a little further along I'll post some info and pictures. I'm not sure if I'll see 10 to 20 more H.P. but the added torque will awesome. I got to drive one last year and as soon as I did...had to plan a build! You have to be super careful with the factory system when doing something like this as far as cam selection etc. |
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Franklinstower Samba Member
Joined: September 21, 2006 Posts: 1896 Location: PNW
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Posted: Wed Jul 20, 2022 8:11 am Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread |
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MuzzcoVW wrote: |
Franklinstower wrote: |
Thanks king busdaddy!
I must say, this is the first fi bug I've owned, plenty of dual carbed bugs and buses and although it doesn't have a very much power, it is so smooth through all the rpm range! I just wished I could eek another 10-20 hp out of it!
I just put my spare aar on, eating dinner now and the 16 year old called dubs after dinner to go practice his stick shift driving, lol. I'll report back if this aar operates any differently. |
I'm building a 1904cc stroker for my '75 bug using the factory F.I. When I get a little further along I'll post some info and pictures. I'm not sure if I'll see 10 to 20 more H.P. but the added torque will awesome. I got to drive one last year and as soon as I did...had to plan a build! You have to be super careful with the factory system when doing something like this as far as cam selection etc. |
That's awesome! Yes, keep me posted! I was even asking if you could run something like a 110 cam and 87mm slip ins on the stock FI. But never got a confirmed answer. _________________ '89 Westy - EJ25/22 Frank 4.44 5mt
'75 Miami Blue Sunroof FI Standard Bug |
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plextor Samba Member
Joined: April 15, 2021 Posts: 104 Location: Texas
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Posted: Fri Jul 22, 2022 2:30 pm Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread |
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busdaddy wrote: |
I suspect the end of the nipple goes far past that line, the break looks like it was pinched between the end of the fitting and the body. |
Yep. But cutting that existing hose shorter and bending the edge of the nipple ever so slightly got me a lot of clearance, so we'll see how that holds up.
_________________ 1975 VW La Grande Bug (Super Beetle, 1600 EFI, owned since May 2021)
Last edited by plextor on Fri Jul 22, 2022 5:34 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Gr0unded Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2018 Posts: 256 Location: North Carolina
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Posted: Fri Jul 22, 2022 3:43 pm Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread |
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Has anyone had issues with the bell crank mechanism on their FI beetle?
The bell crank in the picture between the throttle cable and the throttle body seems to be less than smooth on the foot.
I'm still fighting a less than ideal throttle pedal when pressure is first applied, seems really stiff and sticky. I've replaced just about everything from the pedal to the throttle body. Changing the Throttle Body did not correct the issue.
The last thing to check seems to be the bell crank that feels grumpy when I press on the cable side at the engine, stiff or reluctant to move then suddenly surges open.
This system may have worked great brand new, but not so much now. Tired of dealing with this issue. _________________ B r i a n
1976 VW Type 1 Beetle - Standard
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51154 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Fri Jul 22, 2022 4:24 pm Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread |
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I assume you have already dismantled it and cleaned every contact point before applying lube?, were there any worn looking spots on the bushings or shafts?
I can't recall if that link between the bellcrank and throttle lever is adjustable, if it is changing it's length and adjusting the cable to match may put it in a better spot for leverage to get started moving. As long as you still get full throttle when the pedal is on the floor it may be what it needs. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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Gr0unded Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2018 Posts: 256 Location: North Carolina
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Posted: Fri Jul 22, 2022 4:39 pm Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread |
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busdaddy wrote: |
I assume you have already dismantled it and cleaned every contact point before applying lube?, were there any worn looking spots on the bushings or shafts?
I can't recall if that link between the bellcrank and throttle lever is adjustable, if it is changing it's length and adjusting the cable to match may put it in a better spot for leverage to get started moving. As long as you still get full throttle when the pedal is on the floor it may be what it needs. |
I replaced roller cam that goes through the bell housing with another one after finding my original had a worn groove on it. And yes, it was cleaned and re-lubed with axle grease.
Maybe I need to find another bell crank from a lower mileage or try a different lubricant? _________________ B r i a n
1976 VW Type 1 Beetle - Standard
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51154 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Fri Jul 22, 2022 5:18 pm Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread |
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Gr0unded wrote: |
busdaddy wrote: |
I assume you have already dismantled it and cleaned every contact point before applying lube?, were there any worn looking spots on the bushings or shafts?
I can't recall if that link between the bellcrank and throttle lever is adjustable, if it is changing it's length and adjusting the cable to match may put it in a better spot for leverage to get started moving. As long as you still get full throttle when the pedal is on the floor it may be what it needs. |
I replaced roller cam that goes through the bell housing with another one after finding my original had a worn groove on it. And yes, it was cleaned and re-lubed with axle grease.
Maybe I need to find another bell crank from a lower mileage or try a different lubricant? |
Could be worth a try, I spent years trying to get the off idle pedal stick out of my wife's Honda, every cleaning method and exotic lube possible, it still got named Lurch.
In the end spray Graphite or Moly (can't recall which right now) in the cable solved it, some experimenting may help you as well. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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Gr0unded Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2018 Posts: 256 Location: North Carolina
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Posted: Fri Jul 22, 2022 8:59 pm Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread |
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busdaddy wrote: |
Could be worth a try, I spent years trying to get the off idle pedal stick out of my wife's Honda, every cleaning method and exotic lube possible, it still got named Lurch.
In the end spray Graphite or Moly (can't recall which right now) in the cable solved it, some experimenting may help you as well. |
That is a funny story. I'll check into the Moly stuff.
I may be overthinking this, the spring tension on the TB is tight on both the new one and the old one. Seems with tight tension it could be magnifying any slight issues in the connections/cable all the way to the pedal. _________________ B r i a n
1976 VW Type 1 Beetle - Standard
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Bugeye54487 Samba Member
Joined: August 09, 2021 Posts: 56 Location: WI
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Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2022 9:37 am Post subject: Re: Metal Fuel Line Replacement Idea? |
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Seems as if I may have a leaking fuel line in the tunnel. I am sure this has been here before but couldnt find a link. If any one has any good ideas on where to run new lines or mabe any idea how to run new lines in tunnel. Looks impossible!
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51154 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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MuzzcoVW Samba Member
Joined: February 21, 2018 Posts: 1477 Location: Westfield, MA.
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Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2022 9:47 am Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread |
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Franklinstower wrote: |
MuzzcoVW wrote: |
Franklinstower wrote: |
Thanks king busdaddy!
I must say, this is the first fi bug I've owned, plenty of dual carbed bugs and buses and although it doesn't have a very much power, it is so smooth through all the rpm range! I just wished I could eek another 10-20 hp out of it!
I just put my spare aar on, eating dinner now and the 16 year old called dubs after dinner to go practice his stick shift driving, lol. I'll report back if this aar operates any differently. |
I'm building a 1904cc stroker for my '75 bug using the factory F.I. When I get a little further along I'll post some info and pictures. I'm not sure if I'll see 10 to 20 more H.P. but the added torque will awesome. I got to drive one last year and as soon as I did...had to plan a build! You have to be super careful with the factory system when doing something like this as far as cam selection etc. |
That's awesome! Yes, keep me posted! I was even asking if you could run something like a 110 cam and 87mm slip ins on the stock FI. But never got a confirmed answer. |
Absolutely not a 110 cam...even a 100 would be too much. The overlap would cause idle issues. Like I said in one of these threads somewhere, on my 1904 build I'll either be using an Engle W90 with 1.25 rockers (same as the unavailable Eagle 2280) or I'd like to try the split duration Crower 61002. With the LJet system, too much lift or duration over I believe 235 degrees will mess with metering flap flow. |
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