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Official Fuel injection questions thread
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 18, 2022 4:01 pm    Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread Reply with quote

Ain't new stuff fun!?!? Confused

If you are brave you could shove a bar into the nipple and gently nudge it over a little, if you crack it there's JB weld or fuel tank repair putty I guess.....

Option B is give the body a few whacks where it touches and create a little clearance, either option is savage, but what can you do?

A less brutal way to bend the nipple may be to go at the metal on the tank near the side of the nipple and cave it in a little with a flat nosed punch, it'll take the nipple with it, even better if a helper puts pressure on a bar shoved into the nipple to guide it in the direction you desire. That method will also move it away from the body a bit.
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 18, 2022 7:25 pm    Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread Reply with quote

plextor wrote:
found the main vent hose sliced


Assuming a shift in the tank position to fix the binding is limited by the mounting bolts:

You can also consider notching the flange of the tank near the mount bolts and shift the tank position. I did this on my Bug. To do so you must limit the material you remove to a zone outside the resistance weld. **Follow all std precautions to drain the tank and eliminate explosive vapors**
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 19, 2022 7:54 am    Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread Reply with quote

It looks like you could cut off 1/2” to 1” of the hose and get it move over some. Maybe enough to work? Cut it at the red line, or there abouts.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 19, 2022 8:25 am    Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread Reply with quote

I suspect the end of the nipple goes far past that line, the break looks like it was pinched between the end of the fitting and the body.
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 19, 2022 5:54 pm    Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread Reply with quote

Question about cold start. So I've got my 75 standard really running great. Quite rewarding after it was neglected by the previous owner for the last 15 years.
On initial startup when cold, it starts and stays at a 700 RPM idle. So far it never starts high and drops (1500 down to 700). Is that normal for summer temperatures? I haven't done any testing to the tts, cold start valve, or aux air regulator because it's always started just fine, just at a low RPM.

Thanks, Paul
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 19, 2022 6:00 pm    Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread Reply with quote

Franklinstower wrote:
Question about cold start. So I've got my 75 standard really running great. Quite rewarding after it was neglected by the previous owner for the last 15 years.
On initial startup when cold, it starts and stays at a 700 RPM idle. So far it never starts high and drops (1500 down to 700). Is that normal for summer temperatures? I haven't done any testing to the tts, cold start valve, or aux air regulator because it's always started just fine, just at a low RPM.

Thanks, Paul

Sounds like it's time to look through the AAR: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=645985&highlight=aar+opening
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 19, 2022 6:11 pm    Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
/quote]
Sounds like it's time to look through the AAR: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=645985&highlight=aar+opening


I've got a spare from a 1.9 vanagon that I tested good. So you're saying the idle speed should be high for the first 30 seconds? (on first morning start regardless of ambient air temp) Does the tts heat the elememt in the aar based on the signal from the head temp sensor through the ecu?
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 19, 2022 6:45 pm    Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread Reply with quote

Franklinstower wrote:
busdaddy wrote:
/quote]
Sounds like it's time to look through the AAR: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=645985&highlight=aar+opening


I've got a spare from a 1.9 vanagon that I tested good. So you're saying the idle speed should be high for the first 30 seconds? (on first morning start regardless of ambient air temp) Does the tts heat the elememt in the aar based on the signal from the head temp sensor through the ecu?

Highish, less so when it's warm out, but still noticeably faster than a hot start.
Cold weather starting is what really counts though, if it starts and stays running now you might just be better off leaving that sleeping dog alone. If it tries to quit when it's warm out dig in.

The AAR and head sensor are unrelated, the whole AAR system is a stand alone, as is the CSV and it's TTS system. The AAR gets power from the double relay when the fuel pump starts, the ground is connected to the ECU but in depth probing by a number of very qualified experts has shown it is just a constant ground path and the ECU in no way fiddles with the AAR signal. Maybe Bosch planned on future self adjusting?, but on our cars it's a dumb system that only rely's on ambient temps and heat from it's internal element, much like an automatic choke on a carb system.
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 19, 2022 7:06 pm    Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread Reply with quote

Thanks king busdaddy!
I must say, this is the first fi bug I've owned, plenty of dual carbed bugs and buses and although it doesn't have a very much power, it is so smooth through all the rpm range! I just wished I could eek another 10-20 hp out of it!

I just put my spare aar on, eating dinner now and the 16 year old called dubs after dinner to go practice his stick shift driving, lol. I'll report back if this aar operates any differently.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2022 4:04 am    Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread Reply with quote

Franklinstower wrote:
Thanks king busdaddy!
I must say, this is the first fi bug I've owned, plenty of dual carbed bugs and buses and although it doesn't have a very much power, it is so smooth through all the rpm range! I just wished I could eek another 10-20 hp out of it!

I just put my spare aar on, eating dinner now and the 16 year old called dubs after dinner to go practice his stick shift driving, lol. I'll report back if this aar operates any differently.
I'm building a 1904cc stroker for my '75 bug using the factory F.I. When I get a little further along I'll post some info and pictures. I'm not sure if I'll see 10 to 20 more H.P. but the added torque will awesome. I got to drive one last year and as soon as I did...had to plan a build! You have to be super careful with the factory system when doing something like this as far as cam selection etc.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2022 8:11 am    Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread Reply with quote

MuzzcoVW wrote:
Franklinstower wrote:
Thanks king busdaddy!
I must say, this is the first fi bug I've owned, plenty of dual carbed bugs and buses and although it doesn't have a very much power, it is so smooth through all the rpm range! I just wished I could eek another 10-20 hp out of it!

I just put my spare aar on, eating dinner now and the 16 year old called dubs after dinner to go practice his stick shift driving, lol. I'll report back if this aar operates any differently.
I'm building a 1904cc stroker for my '75 bug using the factory F.I. When I get a little further along I'll post some info and pictures. I'm not sure if I'll see 10 to 20 more H.P. but the added torque will awesome. I got to drive one last year and as soon as I did...had to plan a build! You have to be super careful with the factory system when doing something like this as far as cam selection etc.


That's awesome! Yes, keep me posted! I was even asking if you could run something like a 110 cam and 87mm slip ins on the stock FI. But never got a confirmed answer.
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 22, 2022 2:30 pm    Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
I suspect the end of the nipple goes far past that line, the break looks like it was pinched between the end of the fitting and the body.


Yep. But cutting that existing hose shorter and bending the edge of the nipple ever so slightly got me a lot of clearance, so we'll see how that holds up.


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Last edited by plextor on Fri Jul 22, 2022 5:34 pm; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 22, 2022 3:43 pm    Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread Reply with quote

Has anyone had issues with the bell crank mechanism on their FI beetle?

The bell crank in the picture between the throttle cable and the throttle body seems to be less than smooth on the foot.

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I'm still fighting a less than ideal throttle pedal when pressure is first applied, seems really stiff and sticky. I've replaced just about everything from the pedal to the throttle body. Changing the Throttle Body did not correct the issue.

The last thing to check seems to be the bell crank that feels grumpy when I press on the cable side at the engine, stiff or reluctant to move then suddenly surges open.

This system may have worked great brand new, but not so much now. Tired of dealing with this issue.
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 22, 2022 4:24 pm    Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread Reply with quote

I assume you have already dismantled it and cleaned every contact point before applying lube?, were there any worn looking spots on the bushings or shafts?

I can't recall if that link between the bellcrank and throttle lever is adjustable, if it is changing it's length and adjusting the cable to match may put it in a better spot for leverage to get started moving. As long as you still get full throttle when the pedal is on the floor it may be what it needs.
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 22, 2022 4:39 pm    Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
I assume you have already dismantled it and cleaned every contact point before applying lube?, were there any worn looking spots on the bushings or shafts?

I can't recall if that link between the bellcrank and throttle lever is adjustable, if it is changing it's length and adjusting the cable to match may put it in a better spot for leverage to get started moving. As long as you still get full throttle when the pedal is on the floor it may be what it needs.


I replaced roller cam that goes through the bell housing with another one after finding my original had a worn groove on it. And yes, it was cleaned and re-lubed with axle grease.

Maybe I need to find another bell crank from a lower mileage or try a different lubricant?
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 22, 2022 5:18 pm    Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread Reply with quote

Gr0unded wrote:
busdaddy wrote:
I assume you have already dismantled it and cleaned every contact point before applying lube?, were there any worn looking spots on the bushings or shafts?

I can't recall if that link between the bellcrank and throttle lever is adjustable, if it is changing it's length and adjusting the cable to match may put it in a better spot for leverage to get started moving. As long as you still get full throttle when the pedal is on the floor it may be what it needs.


I replaced roller cam that goes through the bell housing with another one after finding my original had a worn groove on it. And yes, it was cleaned and re-lubed with axle grease.

Maybe I need to find another bell crank from a lower mileage or try a different lubricant?

Could be worth a try, I spent years trying to get the off idle pedal stick out of my wife's Honda, every cleaning method and exotic lube possible, it still got named Lurch.
In the end spray Graphite or Moly (can't recall which right now) in the cable solved it, some experimenting may help you as well.
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 22, 2022 8:59 pm    Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:

Could be worth a try, I spent years trying to get the off idle pedal stick out of my wife's Honda, every cleaning method and exotic lube possible, it still got named Lurch.
In the end spray Graphite or Moly (can't recall which right now) in the cable solved it, some experimenting may help you as well.

That is a funny story. I'll check into the Moly stuff.

I may be overthinking this, the spring tension on the TB is tight on both the new one and the old one. Seems with tight tension it could be magnifying any slight issues in the connections/cable all the way to the pedal.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2022 9:37 am    Post subject: Re: Metal Fuel Line Replacement Idea? Reply with quote

Seems as if I may have a leaking fuel line in the tunnel. I am sure this has been here before but couldnt find a link. If any one has any good ideas on where to run new lines or mabe any idea how to run new lines in tunnel. Looks impossible!

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2022 9:40 am    Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread Reply with quote

Here's a good place to start: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/search.php?searc..._chars=200
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2022 9:47 am    Post subject: Re: Official Fuel injection questions thread Reply with quote

Franklinstower wrote:
MuzzcoVW wrote:
Franklinstower wrote:
Thanks king busdaddy!
I must say, this is the first fi bug I've owned, plenty of dual carbed bugs and buses and although it doesn't have a very much power, it is so smooth through all the rpm range! I just wished I could eek another 10-20 hp out of it!

I just put my spare aar on, eating dinner now and the 16 year old called dubs after dinner to go practice his stick shift driving, lol. I'll report back if this aar operates any differently.
I'm building a 1904cc stroker for my '75 bug using the factory F.I. When I get a little further along I'll post some info and pictures. I'm not sure if I'll see 10 to 20 more H.P. but the added torque will awesome. I got to drive one last year and as soon as I did...had to plan a build! You have to be super careful with the factory system when doing something like this as far as cam selection etc.


That's awesome! Yes, keep me posted! I was even asking if you could run something like a 110 cam and 87mm slip ins on the stock FI. But never got a confirmed answer.
Absolutely not a 110 cam...even a 100 would be too much. The overlap would cause idle issues. Like I said in one of these threads somewhere, on my 1904 build I'll either be using an Engle W90 with 1.25 rockers (same as the unavailable Eagle 2280) or I'd like to try the split duration Crower 61002. With the LJet system, too much lift or duration over I believe 235 degrees will mess with metering flap flow.
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