Can I get the Fuel sender out without removing the engine?

[greenboat4]

I have a 1967 Split window Bus with a 69 Beetle engine and transmission in it (it has been lowered). I can reach behind the engine and see behind the engine.

Can I get the Fuel sender out without removing the engine?

If NOT any Tips/suggestions or things to do or look out for?

[EverettB]

Nope, you have to pull the engine and the fuel tank out.

Unless you cut an access hole up top, which is gross.
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[quartermilecamel]

you can either remove the engine then the tank, or cut hole in luggage area. I chose cut neat hole because Im not keeping mine 100% stock.........and IM getting older. What I did to cover hole NEATLY, is obtain the same material and use that to make a cover plate. If you do end up cutting hole......either be sure theres no gas fumes because of holes in tank or filler, or dont make sparks. I made mine look like the plate was factory by fitting the plate over the hole matching up the ribs in the metal too. Not overly in love with pulling my engine just to change out the fuel sender. P.S.......there was a suggestion I believe in the progressive refinements or something that showed this process if my memory serves me correctly, so yes be bold and cut hole or stay stock and work a lot.
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[Harleyelf]

If the sender is original, it is a brass cylinder about eight inches long and cannot be removed without pulling the tank or cutting a hole in the floor of the luggage area. However, there is a chance it has been changed out. The later senders have an arm and a float, and can be changed in place.

You can remove the 8mm nuts that hold it in place and lift it up to see.

Drain it fully if you decide to remove it. A quart or so will still be in there after the line stops flowing - I always remove the output pipe to reduce the chance of it hanging up on anything. This allows all the sludge to fall into your drain pan.

[Clara]

Are you sure the sender is bad? What is it doing? Sometimes the gauge has a ground issue.
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[Eric&Barb]

[DadaCheese]

When/if/as you do take the sender out, note that the bolts are actually NOT symmetrically placed.
It'll save you 5-seconds to know that you need to put it back in aligned in the same way that you took it out.

...and in case it isn't the grounding of the gauge, and you do take your tank out, here's some pictures and lesson's learned from removing the tank from a '67:

REMOVAL:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6511752&highlight=#6511752

PLACING BACK IN:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6538636&highlight=#6538636
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[greenboat4]

OK I grounded the sending wire off the sending unit and the gas gauge needle moves to FULL.....
This I believe tells me that the gas gauge and the wiring is OK and that the problem is the Sending unit on the gas tank.....

If so then... should I buy the original style sending unit (7"-8" cylinder ) or is there a better sending unit out there?

[GLHTurbo]

[Bruce Amacker]

[BarryL]

[Eric&Barb]

Agreed, you should mention what is happening to the gauge, and do check for clean grounds first. Just believing something is wrong, but not diagnosing the problem will most likely replacing stuff that does not need to be.

Have seen folks have a starting problem, replace the starter, then the battery, then the alternator, then finally replace a $8.00 battery ground strap to find the last was the real problem.
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[farnhamassoc]

FYI yall,
you can put a late model bug sender in there. That way when the float sinks or if you like paying ridiculous prices for senders, you can change it without removing the tank. 68 and up bug sender. just need to bend the rod so it clears the side of the tank on the pre 67 and is almost a drop in on the 67 only tank. I no longer use the bus ones.
FYI none of the repos gauges read correctly anyway. But they are helpful to know how much fuel you have. All mine with stock senders OR Bug senders read empty with about 4 gallons still in the reserve. Original gauge and bug sender or bus sender read about the same as far as after market. resistor wire is not the same either. The gas gauge is more of a guess to know how much gas you might have pretty much with any setup other than all original German parts.
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[busdaddy]

A few minutes to repair your OG one will last you another 50 years or more, why do it twice (or more)?

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=629435&highlight=sender+repair
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[NUTSFORBUSES]

For the guys who like torture, I bought new Nichrome wire and did a re wire on my sender, it works real good, but working with and soldering "a Hair" is no simple task.
I also have a Bay tank which required a longer sender(bay sender). Cutting a hole would be up to you, I've never done it.
I do know IF someone came up with a new way to read fuel, I would buy it. My first 66 westy was 10 years old when I bought it and the gauge was fairly inaccurate, and ever since I usually watch my mileage. I think VW was lobbied by a greedy tow truck company in the 50's & 60's
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[Bruce Amacker]

[BarryL]

[Culito]

[SCZ9-1-1]

I cut a hole over mine and put in a stainless steel access hatch like truck beds have. I poo-poo'd the idea of an access hole for a long time and then I learned that there is a VW tech bulletin that shows dealerships how to cut a hole to fix sending units. Over in the Bay Window forums there's a thread as well. My hatch also gives me access to the front of my engine and dual carbs.

[Culito]

To the original question:
Can you remove the original "tube style" sender without removing the engine / tank?
Probably, if you're not worried about saving the original sender. Just crush the tube and bend it as you remove it.
I might try this with my dead aftermarket unit.
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