Advice on swapping heat exchangers

[Tom Powell]

Years ago I replaced my rusted OG heat exchangers with Dansk and realized the mistake on the next ski trip. I have acquired some good OG HE's and plan to swap them into my '69 camper. I'm reluctant to drop the engine for only this work and would like advice on the possibility of doing the swap with the engine in place.

Aloha
tp

[hazetguy]

it can be done. i've done it a few times on various VW's.
it can really suck to get to the upper exhaust nuts. and if you strip the nut or stud or break an exhaust stud, you're gonna end up pulling the engine anyway. it can also suck a bit trying to get the "new" heater box pipe to fit in the muffler and on the exhaust stud at the same time. if you do this, i would recommend putting it up on heavy duty jackstands (or lift, if you are so fortunate as to have access to one) and removing the wheels. it gives easier access.
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[scrivyscriv]

I've never done it but I have had to tighten up the exhaust nuts a few times.. It doesn't seem like it would be impossible. You might not even have to pull the muffler off.
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[kreemoweet]

If it's not possible, then I'm an inveterate miracle-worker. I suggest you replace those pesky front exhust stud nuts with
smaller 11 or 12 mm wrench size nuts, stainless or brass, and use anti-seize.
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[richparker]

I've done it. I didn't think it was that hard, but my exhaust studs were good and didn't pull out. Removing the rear apron helps a ton.
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[scrivyscriv]

Oh yeah, forgot to mention I went back with the smaller diameter EMPI exhaust nuts. Definitely handy
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Robert in Memphis
Dünkelgrügen 1967 Java Green bug thread
Engine rebuild thread
If you're ever in the Memphis area, you are welcome to stop by for advice and help.

[SGKent]

1971 dual port experience not 1969 so can't say on that. On 1971 Factory heat exchangers. Remove the exhaust first. A couple nuts will need liquid wrench to loosen them but they will come off. May need different wrenches to get angles on the nuts.
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[pioneer1]

Mayor Ratwell does a really nice write up on preparing the ports to fit and seal on the heads. You only want to do this job once.
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[TomWesty]

I've done it and although it was a long time ago, I don't recall it being that difficult. I did break a stud and had to drill/ EZ out. Did it with engine in place and it sucked, but again not that difficult.
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[hazetguy]

[Tom Powell]

[wcfvw69]

I think it's pretty simple IF the mounting nuts/studs are not rusted. Certainly spray all the connections with PB blaster a day or two before commencing the job. I also agree with putting the bus on jack stands and removing the rear tires for better access. I didn't remove my muffler or engine when I removed my heater boxes last time.

The other thing Tom is to REALLY check the nipples that slide into the muffler on your used heater boxes for wear/rust and being undersized. That joint likes to create irritating exhaust leaks. I sourced some used, original boxes for my 70. Both of my pipes/nipples were rusted undersized.

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=113255101X

These repair nipples are sweet. While I welded mine in, they don't have to be. Replacing those pipe ends and using good donuts and clamps provided zero exhaust leaks.

Last suggestion. Get a big metal file and flatten the exhaust gasket seating area that slides over the two studs on the heads. Most are warped. Making it flat again with new gaskets it worth the effort.

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[rottenkid]

I had to torch the exhaust bolts off of my 78 bus. I repaired the heater boxes and installed them without removing the engine. It is not a fun job when it is really cold outside. I have a kerosene heater, which blew warm air while doing the installation.

[telford dorr]

Follow-up:

Both heater boxes were replaced without pulling the engine, or anything else, for that matter. After Tom backed into the driveway, we jacked the rear end up, put on jack stands, then pulled the rear tires. After that, the four front exhaust nuts were loosened (not hard, as they were quite hot!) Angled 13mm wrenches made this possible. After cooling down for a while, the hot and cold air hoses, and heater cables were disconnected. The rear doughnut clamps, heater box to tin screws and front flange nuts were removed. The heater boxes easily slid forward and were removed.

Reinstallation was the reverse of removal, with new gaskets and doughnut rings used. The heater box flanges were made flat with some hammer and file work.
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[Tom Powell]

[telford dorr]

You're welcome, any time. Bottom line: this was a straight-forward job. Not complex at all.

Forgot to mention: chased the head studs with the appropriate sized die to clean them up, then lightly coated with nickel anti-seize. Made getting the flanges snug very easy
_________________
'71 panel, now with FI
'Experience' is the ability to recognize a mistake when you're making it again - Franklin P. Jones
In theory, theory works in practice; in practice, it doesn't - William T. Harbaugh
When you're dead, you don't know you're dead. The pain is only felt by others.
Same thing happens when you're stupid. - Philippe Geluck
More VW electrical at http://telforddorr.com/ (available 9am to 9pm PST)

[Tom Powell]

[telford dorr]

Well, your rubber mat cushion made that not so bad...

So: the heat works good? Had to bail before it was tested...
_________________
'71 panel, now with FI
'Experience' is the ability to recognize a mistake when you're making it again - Franklin P. Jones
In theory, theory works in practice; in practice, it doesn't - William T. Harbaugh
When you're dead, you don't know you're dead. The pain is only felt by others.
Same thing happens when you're stupid. - Philippe Geluck
More VW electrical at http://telforddorr.com/ (available 9am to 9pm PST)

[Tom Powell]

I was cooking and sweating on the drive when I tested the center pin, steering and heat exchangers. OG is better than Dansk by uku million percent.

Aloha
tp