Buggeee's 1972 Super Beetle

[Buggeee]

[Buggeee]

[vamram]

I believe that hole is where the accelerator's metal guide tube goes thru, from the back where the carb sits and thru that and then the front engine tin. From the factory, it had a hard plastic cover that would slide down and snug the accelerator tube.
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Eventually, "we are what we pretend to be.’”
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'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
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Save the Supers!!

[bnam]

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=672612&highlight=

[Rome]

Aargh- you have your generator positioned incorrectly! It needs to be rotated 1/4 turn clockwise. The ground screw will then point nearly straight up, and the two terminals for the generator cables will point to approx. "2:00". Compare with your factory manual. I'm nearly certain that all you need to do is to loosen your strap and push it forward, remove the four M6 bolts from the backing plate, break your sealant grip and rotate the backing plate (with gen attached) 1/4 turn. No, VW did not put sealant on that joint. You had the gen strap oriented correctly.

Yours:

Correct position (from gallery; this engine is being prepped for dual carbs, therefore the center linkage behind the fuel pump)-

[Cusser]

[TX-73]

I was glad to see that your Adventure in Curil turned out much better the second time. Mr Duncan helped me rebuild my engine and he's a fanatic about details like that. Even with a seemingly microscopic application of the stuff I was really surprised to still find some bits of it in the oil sump screen after the initial start-up. So just a mention to check that after the successful first start of your powerplant.
Very nice read overall.
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My 1973 Standard Beetle Build SOLD
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[Buggeee]

Love you all!!!! Thank you for all the good info.

Ok. The adventure I'm on now, which is undisclosed, and will allow me to also simultaneously address all of these issues, has me rewinding the thread all the way to here...

Any guesses?

Oh, of course.... A hint...

Got it. The hint is - it involves a NEW TOOL

I'll be back. With pics. But right now I have it all taken apart already and pieces are everywhere again down there!
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1966 Sportsmobile Camper https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0
72 Super Duper http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=672387
(adopted out) 61 Turkis Pile https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=728764

[sb001]

Buggeee is going to have his newly rebuilt 72 super engine up and running before me--and he hasn't even had his car as long!

I'll just blame it on me having autostick stuff to deal with.

Looks fantastic- great job!
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I'm the humblest guy on this board.

1969 autostick sedan, family owned since new
1600 SP engine
Solex 30 PICT 3 carburetor
Bosch 113905205AE autostick distributor

[brettsvw]

[jerrybromley]

I have rebuilt and or modified many a V-8 ,but after buying my first Beetle the motor looked intimidating to me ( jugs instead of cylinders , loose studs splitting cases and all that air cooling stuff, ect.) Your post does a fantastic job of reducing my fear level. Thanks for a GREAT thread
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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=670629&highlight=

[Buggeee]

[joey1320]

Looking great. I really like the hammer'd finish.

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**1971 Super Project
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

[FaanP]

Awesome job there .... you are really doing a proper build

[Buggeee]

Here is a little tour of the underside, where I installed an OG thermostat to work those flaps shown in earlier posts. When the thermostat is cold, it contracts and pulls the rod down from the flaps, closing them so air is not blown over the cylinders, as discussed above, and it warms up quick avoiding wear on the bearings. Then when hot it begins expanding to allow the spring to pull the flaps open, steering the air over the cylinders and, eventually, directing it over the heads where it is needed most.

I learned on the thermostats that the new style Mexican ones fail in the closed position, meaning when they fail they they contract and hold the flaps totally closed and overheat your engine. The OG thermostat fails in the open position, meaning it if it fails it expands and holds the flaps wide open. In that position, it won't warm up as fast when the car is cold but it won't overheat the car when its running.

I found a used OG thermostat and have seen them here on the Samba classifieds. You can get a new American made replica of the German from Awesome Powdercoat, but they are not cheap. Here is a link from them that explains all about the different kinds:

http://www.awesomepowdercoat.com/thermostat_new_used_rebuilt.html

So, uuuurrrrgh, tip the motor onto its flywheel because I have a wood cart instead of an engine stand (they both roll around you know). Here is the little threaded end of the flap rod sticking through the necessary head-tin piece that keeps the air going through the fins rather than just flowing through the passage there (Later I painted that scratch with a little brush btw - because that's how I roll ):

And here is the OG brass (I think) accordion thermostat. It's sealed and permanently filled with a couple of drops of rubbing alcohol or something, that vaporizes at the right temperature, allowing the accordion to expand. When it cools, the vapor condenses into droplets, creating a vacuum in there that pulls the accordion into the closed position. I cleaned it with a soft nylon brush but not scrubbed. These things feel really delicate...

I put a little grease on the threads so it wouldn't seize on there and just screwed on. Then I started hanging the bracket.

The bracket has an oblong mounting hole so it can be slid, adjusted, up and down. I turned it into position and slid it until it just barely contacted the top of the thermostat.

The spring is holding the flaps in the open position right now so this is exactly where it needs to end up when it is fully expanded. I tightened the bracket to the case.

Then, after taking a little breath. I played with pulling the thermostat down to its seated position and then letting it rise back up by the spring of the flaps to see if it traveled smoothly. It did not. I had to remove, massage, and reinstall the bracket and that head-tin piece a few times until the grove in the top of the bracket was positioned just right so the top of the thermostat and the rod did not scrape on those other parts at any point in the travel. Finessed to a precision mechanism, I held the thermostat down into the bracket and installed the bolt into it from the bottom.

Now I put the sleds, or toboggans, or bottom tins on while I had access. Once the heater boxes are on the outside of these, the sleds create a tunnel where the air blows down over the cylinders and heads and then back out the rear of the car.

Here is a blurry picture of the thermostat sitting restfully in its little tunnel, waiting patiently for the temperature of the air rushing over it to tell it what to do.

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1966 Sportsmobile Camper https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0
72 Super Duper http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=672387
(adopted out) 61 Turkis Pile https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=728764

[Buggeee]

And here is exactly why I decided to do what I am about to do to some old OG heater boxes I got from one of our friends in the Samba classifieds, rather than buy new reproductions, just look at all those fins inside!

It's like a radiator in an old house. It gets COLD in Ohio. There are lots of DRY, COLD days inOhio that will be fine for driving a classic car IF IT HAS HEAT!!!

Here's a view of the inside:

[Buggeee]

The dual Empi 34 EPC carbs that came with this have sensitive float valves that can withstand no more than 3 psi of fuel pressure before they start overflowing drowing the motor with excess gas.

The stock fuel pump is 5 or 6 or 7 psi or something and can supposedly, or not, be adjusted down by adding more gaskets under the pump somehow.

I am going to be in enough of a world of hurt trying to tune these carbs as it is. I'm not going to be fooling with extra gasket guesswork. So I got a Holley fuel pressure regulator with a lower range (1-15 psi) appropriate for these carbs. And a cool little gauge that will help me adjust it properly. And a little adapter that the guage goes into. And 1/4 inch barbs to route my hoses as I see fit. Here's the goods:

My friend suggested some gas-proof Curil-T for the threads. Who am I to argue?

Screwed the mounting plate onto the Shroud in a spot that was just screaming for a fuel pressure regulator:

...and then mounted the regulator. I was not looking for bling but thats how it comes and, I must admit, I like the look of it.

P.S. After this pic I cut the hoses to the proper length, pushed them on all the way and used fuel hose clamps (not the corkscrews) to seal it up.
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1966 Sportsmobile Camper https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0
72 Super Duper http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=672387
(adopted out) 61 Turkis Pile https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=728764

[wcfvw69]

Only the "new" craptastic fuel pumps sold today are putting out the 5 PSI and up fuel pressure.

An original Pierburg fuel pump, either dome top or square top rebuilt w/an NOS repair kit or a NOS fuel pump puts out 2.6-3.0 out of the box. I recently purchased an NOS dome top Pierburg fuel pump made in Mexico for $100 dollars. I installed it and it had right at 3.0 PSI.

They are great pumps and last for decades vs. years like the new ones. And you don't have to use all that aftermarket fuel pressure gear.
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[Buggeee]

Mine is the craptastic pump. Those are good looking pumps Bill. Maybe when I'm done with this Frankenstein, which I do love, btw, I'll stumble on an unmolested OG in the fantasy barn find VW porn scenario that rests in the back of the mind. When I do, it will have a pump like that for certain...
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1966 Sportsmobile Camper https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0
72 Super Duper http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=672387
(adopted out) 61 Turkis Pile https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=728764

[sb001]

Lookin' great!! Your attention to detail is amazing, you have the patience of Job. And you're setting up dual carbs, welding heater boxes, etc... no wonder it's taking a bit longer-- I tihnk you still win!

I have had very good luck with the original VW replacement Brosol pumps made in Brazil, I think there are some crappier knock-off ones now but I have an original Brosol on both of the bugs I have and they put out just over 3 psi, like 3.2 when I measured it on my 69:

You may find one of those for a bit cheaper when/if you go looking.
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I'm the humblest guy on this board.

1969 autostick sedan, family owned since new
1600 SP engine
Solex 30 PICT 3 carburetor
Bosch 113905205AE autostick distributor