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Buggeee's 1972 Super Beetle
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Buggeee
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 20, 2021 8:30 pm    Post subject: Re: Buggeee's 1972 Super Beetle Reply with quote

Buggeee wrote:
...Another affect of doing burnouts to impress your girlfriend (aside from her giggling applause) is that the rotation force to the rear of the axles is trying to twist the engine and transaxle downward at the rear end of the frame horns. The frame horns can flex downward. When the frame horns rebound upwards, the rear wheel hops. This makes for an awkward presentation and can, I have read, even bend the frame horns. If my maker is willing, this issue will be addressed in my next installment using a kafer cup bar.

For all concerned, please note that I have not even built the next engine for this ride so all of this overkill is being conducted for the sheer joy and satisfaction of it. Writing it out is, as usual, parroting stuff I'm learning as I go here,


My maker was willing, and the Kafer Cup Bar is installed without drama or difficulty, in order to eliminate wheel hop and rear chassis flex. While in there, I put on some Gabriel air shocks - so I can dial in the rear stance at the track. Which track I don't know, but there is a drag strip not too far away so maybe I will go there one day.

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Fair-cooled
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 20, 2021 11:06 pm    Post subject: Re: Buggeee's 1972 Super Beetle Reply with quote

Hi Buggeee, I am familiar with the rosejointed brace you have for your current build. I think they do basically the same thing as the old traction bars that many folks put on there muscle cars to minimize wheel hop under extreme power delivery from there engines. It certainly leaves the quarter and eighth mile speed runs to your ability if you should build such a monster ! By solidly connecting your rear shock towers to the transaxle bottom brace they should provide some extreme strength to your frame horns !
Now that you've got our full attention, I hope you keep us abrest of your build as it progresses ! I like what I see. I probably know where you bought them, as my main parts supplier sells them as a kit. I think I first saw them on one of Duckmans videos as he was working on... Ruby...I think ( ? ). In any event they will definitely tighten up your chassis/drivetrain. Excellent stuff !
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2021 3:14 am    Post subject: Re: Buggeee's 1972 Super Beetle Reply with quote

Wow! This build is taking a wild Tangent. I had thought you were a mild mannered man. But, apparently...the man's name is CLARK KENT. Popcorn
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2021 4:00 am    Post subject: Re: Buggeee's 1972 Super Beetle Reply with quote

He's faster than a speeding 53 bus, and can leap tall transaxles with a single bound !! I think he might be a bit pi**ed off now that the phone boths are all gone though... changing into Super Buggeee in a taxi cab cramps his style...and who could blame him !?
Seriously though, he's digging in very well !
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2021 10:13 am    Post subject: Re: Buggeee's 1972 Super Beetle Reply with quote

I have the same set-up but with the added horn strap and kaper (truss) bar. The transmission also got beefed up to handle the 2276 that's going to go in as soon as the little 1600 don't do it for me. Stock is good, but, bigger is better, at least for me.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2021 3:05 pm    Post subject: Re: Buggeee's 1972 Super Beetle Reply with quote

Exclamation yes, I agree. If a bit of power is good, then even more power is great ! A 2276 should prove to be an exciting build ! Good luck !
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Buggeee
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2021 7:41 pm    Post subject: Re: Buggeee's 1972 Super Beetle Reply with quote

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The trailing arms are due for pivot bushings, soft brake lines, axle bearings/seals, and brakes.

Today's progress was on pivot bushings and soft brake lines.

The 17mm allen bolts were frozen in place pretty badly and it took a lot of work with the heavy duty air impact to break them free, back and forth and back and forth. One of them required the mapp gas torch, but eventually submitted to the effort and the trailing arms were off the car onto the workbench.

With the Energy Suspension polyurethane trailing arm bushings, the metal cups are reused so those didn't get pressed out. I used my ball joint press kit to press out the inner metal sleeve with a conveniently sized socket, and then the rubber portion of the bushings.

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Slathered in poly snot, the poly bushings pressed in by hand. After a quick coat of satin black rattle can, the trailing arms reassembled just fine. All torqued to Bentley specs.

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Buggeee
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2021 8:01 pm    Post subject: Re: Buggeee's 1972 Super Beetle Reply with quote

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Tonight's progress not perfection is rear axle bearings and seals.

Because there's not a lot to report on a job like this, I'll comment that anytime I've got a threaded unit with a spring washer or lock washer, as here, I like to use anti-seize on the threads. Clean threads with anti-seize give an accurate torque reading, I this case 43lbs.

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I guess I'll show you the high temp wheel bearing grease, as there's not a lot going on.

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All tidied up with a quick coat of the satin black rattle can for some level of preservation.

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I will note for transparency sake that I put a nice mark in the end of my brass drift trying to drive out the inner bearing until I cracked open Bentley's manual and saw that there was a circlip back there under the grease holding it in place. I've changed a lot of wheel bearings on different things but the bug is the first circlip I've run across. Old dog, new trick.
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2021 5:50 am    Post subject: Re: Buggeee's 1972 Super Beetle Reply with quote

Your brake drum backing plates' inside surfaces would've been a good candidate for a rust converter spray such as from Loctite or Permatex. Spray it evenly onto the surface per the instructions, let sit overnight to harden, and then spray your black. You've thereby created a much more "stable" metal surface onto which the black paint will stick.

Rust converters applied by brush will also work, or MasterSeries coating.
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Buggeee
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2021 9:02 am    Post subject: Re: Buggeee's 1972 Super Beetle Reply with quote

Rome wrote:
Your brake drum backing plates' inside surfaces would've been a good candidate for a rust converter spray such as from Loctite or Permatex. Spray it evenly onto the surface per the instructions, let sit overnight to harden, and then spray your black. You've thereby created a much more "stable" metal surface onto which the black paint will stick.

Rust converters applied by brush will also work, or MasterSeries coating.


Fair point. I like to etch with phosphoric acid, which is similar in that the conversion occurs, but without a build up of coating. I did not bother to do it here. I just mechanically cleaned with a wire brush and then chemically cleaned it with painting prep solvent before spraying it. Rustoleum satin black is pretty sticky stuff and I've had good luck with it in adverse conditions. It also touches up very easily. The one thing I find bothersome about the converters is that they form a sheet and the surface has to be prepared very properly to ensure the sheet remains adhered over time. I am a hack so I'm less confident in the converter coating under my application and more comforted by an easy touch up opportunity.

Its good to hear from you, and everyone. In this setting I should be good until brake fluid starts leaking onto it and I'd spray another quick coat when rebuilding the brakes again if I live that long. Smile I've seen people powder coat these on here and I was thinking about how cool that would be when I was assembling this.
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2021 9:40 am    Post subject: Re: Buggeee's 1972 Super Beetle Reply with quote

Buggeee wrote:


Assembled, cleaned and painted, the little boot disk gets aligned by a nib on the disk and a mark on the box while the steering is centered. Dunno why, Bentley says so.



It's so during the alignment process you are supposed to center the box with the NIB, then you know your steering is "at center" Then re-install your steering wheel with it being centered.

Lock the steering wheel in place and preform the alignment. Tow/Camber etc.

The earlier 1971 Super beetle steering box had a physical bolt you would install that locked the drop arm into the steering box when it was centered for alignment. They did away with this on later boxes.
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Buggeee
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2021 10:23 am    Post subject: Re: Buggeee's 1972 Super Beetle Reply with quote

Mr.Duncan wrote:
Buggeee wrote:


Assembled, cleaned and painted, the little boot disk gets aligned by a nib on the disk and a mark on the box while the steering is centered. Dunno why, Bentley says so.



It's so during the alignment process you are supposed to center the box with the NIB, then you know your steering is "at center" Then re-install your steering wheel with it being centered.

Lock the steering wheel in place and preform the alignment. Tow/Camber etc.

The earlier 1971 Super beetle steering box had a physical bolt you would install that locked the drop arm into the steering box when it was centered for alignment. They did away with this on later boxes.


Thank you Sir!
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Dark Earth
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2021 11:07 am    Post subject: Re: Buggeee's 1972 Super Beetle Reply with quote

I only see two seals. Did you also install the seal by the snap ring ?

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I think the larger o-ring is used for swing axle applications ...

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... and a smaller one is used for IRS applications

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Buggeee
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2021 11:19 am    Post subject: Re: Buggeee's 1972 Super Beetle Reply with quote

Dark Earth wrote:

I only see two seals. Did you also install the seal by the snap ring?


Yes, the second set of seals, not pictured, were still on the shelf.

Dark Earth wrote:
I think the larger o-ring is used for swing axle applications ...and a smaller one is used for IRS applications


I am grateful for this. I will fix that this evening. THANK YOU

P.S. Couldn't wait. It's fixed.

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Dark Earth
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2021 6:02 pm    Post subject: Re: Buggeee's 1972 Super Beetle Reply with quote

Ha ha you're not messing around !! Nice clean looking car by the way. Applause

Just one more thing, I hate to bring up, but I ran into a deal when I was doing mine. I guess there are 10mm width seals and 8mm width seals. In my case, the 8mm seal worked out much better.

Here's the 10mm seal ...
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I decided to go with a narrower outer wheel seal after reading Vanapplebomb's build.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...;start=605

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I don't know if you can see it, but it sits a little more flush with the 8mm seal.

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I don't know if everybody runs into this, but I thought I'd pass it along.
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2021 7:00 pm    Post subject: Re: Buggeee's 1972 Super Beetle Reply with quote

Dark Earth wrote:
Ha ha you're not messing around !! Nice clean looking car by the way. Applause

Just one more thing, I hate to bring up, but I ran into a deal when I was doing mine. I guess there are 10mm width seals and 8mm width seals. In my case, the 8mm seal worked out much better.

You are too kind my man, and I've been admiring your baja build. I paid attention to your discussion of seals and mine are, in fact, the 10mm that sit proud of the race.

However, and I don't know if they are all this way, but my new drums have a beveled edge that clears the 10mm seal to make contact with the race. So all is well. I really appreciate the second set of eyes!!!

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2021 8:51 pm    Post subject: Re: Buggeee's 1972 Super Beetle Reply with quote

Nice !! I'm watching your builds too. Anxious

And ... I'm jealous of your shop. Cool
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 25, 2021 10:09 am    Post subject: Re: Buggeee's 1972 Super Beetle Reply with quote

Looking great Steve.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2021 7:35 pm    Post subject: Re: Buggeee's 1972 Super Beetle Reply with quote

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How about that for motivation for changing your soft rubber brake hoses on every bug you drag home? It's what I do now. This is a picture of the aftermath of a lock-up at highway speeds from the old rubber brake hose collapsing on the inside, trapping the fluid in the wheel cylinder locking the brakes. I felt the drag immediately after letting off the brake pedal but was in the middle of nowhere and did not want to stop only to be stranded with a locked-up drum on the side of a remote highway at the beginning of a weekend road trip.

So... I hammered it and gathered more speed to try and either break it loose or grind enough pad off to free it. With an audible "pop" and a plume of white smoke trailing in a long dragon's tail behind me, the wheel was free. I did not know why it was free at the time but apparently I had generated enough heat to start a fire inside the drum that consumed all the paint, rubber and disintegrate the pad material to dust. What remains here is the metal skeleton of a drum braking system, patinaed with atmospheric rust on bare metal that has been stored for a year or more, sometimes outside.

The remarkable thing, attesting to divine intervention really, is that the brake hose was so clogged with deteriorated rubber that the fluid did not escape the system and the remaining brakes continued to work just fine for the weekend, and ensuing days, weeks, and until the end of the season when it was put on jacks for the body rehab begin in earnest.

I am an idiot. When I opened this up and laid eyes on the situation I really had to do two things. First, submit in sincere prayer of gratitude for what was not, and second, commit to changing out the old rubber brake hoses on every old car I drag home, VW or otherwise. I have stayed faithful to that.

But I digress... here is the recent progress. Fresh brakes on both sides.

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As well as fresh heater control cables. These were very easy to install. A picture of pulling the old broken ones out. Greased new ones slid right through the tubes. No muss, no fuss. According to the instructional video at JBugs as well as Rob and Dave's aircooled pages, the slightly longer one goes in the bottom tube. Like this, they do not come out even under the rear of the car. I don't know why but maybe because the heads are off-set on the engine? Anyway, I've got to order a pair of the little rubber boots for the ends of the tubes.

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And it's back on four wheels again.

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Note: The stock wheels up front belong to a friend. He bought my yellow 72 Super vert, which cameoed in the drove your bug today stickied thread, and he is trying on my low profile tires from this build to see how it sits with some lower struts he installed. So these are just holding the front of my car off the ground for now.
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Last edited by Buggeee on Sat Feb 27, 2021 7:11 am; edited 2 times in total
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2021 8:18 pm    Post subject: Re: Buggeee's 1972 Super Beetle Reply with quote

Looking great Steve, very nice work. But I have to say it looks to me like your wheel cylinder was what locked up your wheel to me. My thoughts are that the right piston ( right
hand in the photo) seized and the bake fluid pushed the left piston clean out of the housing, breaking the housing and assuring that it wasn't going to go back in ( ? ). I have a set of braided stainless steel hoses waiting to go on my bug as soon as I can work on it ( my garage is going to be built { finally } this coming summer so my bug is put away for the winter ) The braided hoeses not only take abrasion of course but also give a firmer pedal. Easily worth the extra dollars for better safety imo. Do you think this may have happened Question

Darren.

Can't hardly wait to have a garage...
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