Rear heater delete on a syncro?

[baltik]

Thinking about removing my rear heater, I've seen multiple posts on how to do this on a regular westy but the Syncro setup is a bit different. On a regular westy one just needs to unplug the Tee and replace with a straight through connector. Is there a good place to disconnect the syncro lines? Or do i have to cut them off?

also can anyone tell me the size of the plug I will need to close the holes as well as the size of the connector?

[Steve M.]

I forget the size of the hoses to plug, but if you have these hose line clamps or something similar will make it easier to disconnect the hoses with loosing the least amount of coolant.
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-fluid-line-clamp-set-65116.html
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[baltik]

Gotcha, any thoughts on where to connect the lines?

[davevickery]

I would jsut cut them as they come in under the seat. You can loop them together,but there is no need to do that and plugging them is neater and easier.

HomeDepot sells 3/4" Pex Brass Plugs that fit perfectly. (I don't know why PEX says 3/4 when it is closer to 1/2" but they fit and have ribs to stay on and you can just put a hose clamp over them. 1.95/ea. The autoparts store may have plastic coolant plugs, but these work well and brass is nice.

I would gently pull the slack through, leave a couple inches of hose before your cut so you can reconnect later if you want to. Then push the slack back through the hole so they only stick out a little bit under the seat.

If you use needle nose vise-grips or similar to keep from making a cool mess. Put a towel down before you start anyway. And put some duct tape over the jaws on your vise grips to protect the hoses.

[photogdave]

[dyldebus]

I have to agree. I considered this same thing since I was putting in an Espar heater and I figured I could use the extra space.

I'm really glad I didn't do it. The rear heater is SO much better than the front heater. I hardly ever turn the front on. I went the route of smaller batteries instead. We live in San Diego but in Mammoth it was down to the single digits (normal for lots of you) and rear heater kept us toasty warm on the drive home.

[vanagonjr]

[baltik]

Well my thoughts are as follows: we are in California, we typically use the family SUV in the winter. Our front heater works really well and with a family of four we definitely could use the extra space. I just put in a propex under the fridge so figured if we really need heat, we would turn that on

[Birdcage]

Sleep on this for a few days!
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@syncrostyle
@optoverland

[Paulbeard]

/sigh

I wasn't looking for reasons to keep the rear heater…and maybe none of those apply anyway, as I have no skiers or teens to dry out/keep warm. I find the rear heater a bit of a mystery because you have to open the rear bench, lift the box it lives in, turn it on, then go back and fire up the blower. So I think it is coming out.
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Currently -> Frida: 87 Tizian Red (mostly) Vanagon GL Westfalia w/ 2.0L ABA conversion
Formerly -> Steward of a 73 Super Beetle (Beater) and 67 Beetle 1300 (Little Max) both names by POs

[mrshrimp]

Keep the heater.

[Sodo]

You are twisting a knife in the backs of (northern) air-cooled van owners.
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'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb

[davevickery]

[16CVs]

So kill 2 birds with one stone. Eliminate the rear heater and get rid of those plastic tees at the same time. If you just plug the lines after eliminating the rear heater you still have those stupid plastic tees. Go to your local FLAPS and buy 2 BRASS 5/8" double barbed joiners. Use a pair of hose clamp pliers or some other way to cut off the flow of water while you have the Tees out. I would personally use the spring clamps as they are already there.
Once you have done that there are 2 other spots in the heater system with plastic connectors that should be eliminated as well. One is in the rear over the transmission and one is up front by the heater core.
Those and any plastic in a cooling system will leave you walking when they let loose.

Stacy
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1987 Syncro Westfalia Triple knob (bastard)
1989 Syncro Tristar Triple knob "Swedish"
2013 Jetta Hybrid a true "Zwitter"
Samba member # 14980
Call anytime number 650 722 4914 .
Keep Your van running and upkept tastefully for the love of the hobby.
Don't let your van end up in an "abortions" thread.

[Terry Kay]

Do Not Remove The Rear Heater.
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T.K.

[16CVs]

He is not asking our opinion about whether to remove it or not, just about the proper way to do it.

Stacy
_________________
1987 Syncro Westfalia Triple knob (bastard)
1989 Syncro Tristar Triple knob "Swedish"
2013 Jetta Hybrid a true "Zwitter"
Samba member # 14980
Call anytime number 650 722 4914 .
Keep Your van running and upkept tastefully for the love of the hobby.
Don't let your van end up in an "abortions" thread.

[Steve M.]

One of the cons on the rear heater is that if it starts leaking the coolant will soak into you floor insulation most likely before you see it leaking and that's a pita...a real PITA! Aside from the possibility of cooking your engine.

If you know 100% that the heater is good...pressure tested and all that with new hoses, valve and clamps then keeping it is not a problem. If it's been sitting in there since new take it out and get it checked.

The added space gained by removing it is a definite plus!
_________________
This free advice is worth exactly what you paid for it.

There are seven days in a week. Someday is not one of them.

[davevickery]

This is how mine looks with the Pex plugs and cut just inside and under the seat. It being a 10 minute job max, is the reason I did it this way, plus it would be easier to put the heater back for me or the next owner.

[baltik]

[baltik]

Ok so apparently the syncro does have the Tees, just harder to access under the gas tank. I am going to replace them with the inline adapter. Does anyone know the size of the plugs I will need for the holes under the rear bench?

I am going to go with either this coupler

https://www.amazon.com/MettleAir-129-10-1PK-Splicer-Fitting-Adapter/dp/B00SB9HJ1A/

or:

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-Help-56438-Hose-Connector/dp/B000CO7D9K