Building my first engine 1776cc

[Vicgrcs]

Hello im new in the forum and its my first time building a aircooled engine, but im wondering what would be better for me... i don't want to make a dragster or smth, just wanna drive my car at 170 Kmh(joke) with air conditioning; this is what i have


CASE: MEXICAN AS41
OEM Germanian CRANKSHAFT 69MM
311b Connecting Rods
90.5mm Mahle Pistons
Stock Mexican Cylinder Heads, Stock Spring, Valves
CB Straight Cut Cam Gears
Scat Valve Lifters
Scat Spin-On Filter Oil Pump 32mm
Central Weber 40/40 idf

im still trying to know wich camshaft would be better a w100 or 110?
i hope someone could give me some advice or any recomendation either.

Thanks!

[Danwvw]

Sounds like a good start! Have you had the case opened to work with the large Piston & Cylinders? With IDF's you can run the W-110 Cam and raise the compression up to 8 or 8.5:1 The AC though I am not sure about it may be better off with the W-100 Cam and 8.0:1 compression with that AC. You will probably want 28 or 30 mm Venturi in those IDF's? Are you using Stock valve size Heads? Single High Rev Springs would be good.
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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[FreeBug]

You don't need the straight-cut gears, unless you like the extra noise...

You don't mention what size the valves are, make sure they are at least 35.5 x 32 Stock 1600 size), as some mexi fuel-injected heads had smaller valves,IIRC (?).

Both those cams have quite a bit of lift, check your valve guides for proper clearance at full lift. Check clearance for the lifters, too, inside the case.

You'll want bolt-together rocker shafts, too, and cut-to length pushrods.

If you go that way, you'll want a 1 3/8 exhaust header.

Sure about Scat lifters' compatibility with those cams? Check which cam blank. Others will hopefully chime in.

You're on your way! Best of luck

[nsracing]

Save your money for the straight gears. Use the original gears, you will be much happier.

the 1776cc is a very stout engine for street. plenty of power. I will go w/ dual Kadrons carbs if you rather ride and enjoy than tuning all the time.

[rockurob]

[FreeBug]

[SBD]

I think most everybody caught it, but just to be sure, he said central IDF so I'm thinking he means single carb. I'd suggest going for the Kadrons or, if the money is there, dual IDF style carbs. If buying new the price is about the same. At least it is here. Not sure about prices where the OP lives.
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"Just $99 down and $64 a month for 36 months buys you a brand new Volkswagen Beetle!"

[FreeBug]

you're right, sorry didn't catch that.

2 x IDFs, or Kads, but noooo single IDF!! please

[modok]

With a single idf
For most driving you'll want the engle 100
engle 110 will make good power, but the idle and cruise is a LOT worse.

[fastfil]

^^ Agreed on the w100 if you are using the centremount IDF and the OEM crank, and you'll likely find that even the w100 will allow your motor to exceed the safe rpm limit of your crank.
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"...swingaxle...transaxle...same diff."

[Vicgrcs]

[Vicgrcs]

[Vicgrcs]

[bugguy1967]

Vicgrcs, use the 1.4s with your stock cam, and save money on a new cam. With the cam and 1.4s, your lift will be around .400", if I remember correctly. You'll extend your powerband from about 1000-4800 RPM. With the stock cam and that single carb, I'd set compression at 8.0:1 even. If your cam and lifters are in good condition still, number them, and put them back in the same places. You'll need only lash caps for your valves, which are about $20 plus shipping. IMPORTANT: you should buy single high rev springs. CB has them for $20, and they'll be more than adequate.

I personally put over 85,000 miles on my 1776 with straight cut gears. It has a .400" lift cam with stock valve 043 Mexican heads with stock springs. My straight cuts are very quiet. The noise level depends on the distance between the main bore and the cam bore, which varies from case to case.

[Vicgrcs]

[jpaull]

Just curious, what is your source of VW parts being in Venezuela?
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[email protected] MPH 1/4 Mile & 8.1 @ 83.7MPH in 1/8 Mile with Mild Type 1 VW Mag Case 2234cc commuter engine in stock weight bug w/only .491 total lift(CB2292 Cam), 42x37 heads, 48idf's, Street tires, Belt on, Mufflers, Pump gas, video of the run here: https://youtu.be/M3SPqMOKAOg

Transmission by MCMScott:
Rhino case, Klinkenberg 4.12, Superdiff, 002 mainshaft with 091 first idler. Weddle 1.48 Third & 1.14 Fourth.

[Frank Bassman]

Chavez's red beetle.

-Frank

[jpaull]

You mentioned your reading from the cam box, so do you already have a new cam?

What pieces do you need to get your engine running?
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[email protected] MPH 1/4 Mile & 8.1 @ 83.7MPH in 1/8 Mile with Mild Type 1 VW Mag Case 2234cc commuter engine in stock weight bug w/only .491 total lift(CB2292 Cam), 42x37 heads, 48idf's, Street tires, Belt on, Mufflers, Pump gas, video of the run here: https://youtu.be/M3SPqMOKAOg

Transmission by MCMScott:
Rhino case, Klinkenberg 4.12, Superdiff, 002 mainshaft with 091 first idler. Weddle 1.48 Third & 1.14 Fourth.

[FreeBug]

If you have to run the central IDF, so be it. You say you have to build a manifold, this could be a very good thing!

The biggest problem with a central IDF is the manifold heating. Build it so the manifold gets LOTS of exhaust heat, and it should work well.

[icy80123]

I am looking to build a 1776cc as well.

I recently purchased a Sandwinder buggy that's in great condition. That said there it very little info as to what the engine is or has gone through. its stamped AH so its a 1600cc but im thinking for self training purposes of building a zero mile 1776 and keeping this engine as a "back-up"

I want a solid reliable engine, 1776cc seems to be the logical choice to go on a light fiberglass buggy.

Im currently looking at a Scat engine case and the 1776cc rebuild kit from Chirco as the "bones" of the build.

Thoughts? Advise?