1963 15 Window resurrection

[Burlyhammer]

I put this shifter bushing on and it seems too small. I checked the gallery and saw similar issues. It seems like this will wear prematurely. Does anyone have any experience with this issue, if it is one?
Thanks

[ryans65]

I just did that bushing on the 65 Kombi I put the floor in, I smeared a bunch of moly grease all over the the shifter tube and the bushing and got it in. It ends up wearing the paint off anyways so maybe take a strip of sandpaper and take it down to bare metal just in the area that it rides on then cover it in the grease of your choice... anti seize worked well on my truck but I couldn't find it in my garage so I used the moly on the kombi.

[sgellis]

[hazetguy]

[hazetguy]

[EverettB]

RGB discussion above:
Yes, I wasn't 100% sure from the original posts but his assembly looked like the 63-only rear end stuff, which has a few unique pieces.

I have taken mine apart before but unfortunately I didn't take very many photos so I would go off any shop or parts diagrams you can view.
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[zozo]

I just did this a couple days ago. I put the bushing in the bracket, then a bit of grease on the rod, then slid the rod into the bushing and slid it up the rod into position. Worked fine, very little force required. I was also worried about the gap, but it closes up considerably once it’s in the bracket with the rod through it. I effed up the metal ring, so I’ll have to figure out something else.

[wcfvw69]

I have to agree with Jon. You should consider cutting out that pitted up area on the shift rod and replacing it with new, smooth metal.

I don't see any new bushing lasting long sliding over that area, even greased.
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[EverettB]

[mdege]

Yes, that should be flat and at a right angle.

When I got mine in 1988 the shift rod was all rusty and the bracket was bent and had already cracked. The fire department forgot to lube the shift rod.
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[edgood1]

for what its worth this is off my '63 and I'm pretty sure its original. the bus has low miles.

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[Burlyhammer]

[Burlyhammer]

Thank you all for your input on my shift rod and bushing. First of all, the bracket that holds the bushing was bent:

The shift rod itself is pitted, but not rusty. I sand blasted it, master coated it, primered two coats, and painted two coats. I think the problem was too much paint. I am going to grease it well and put it in as is for now. I was PMed regarding a nice looking 2 piece brass bushing. I may go that route if/when this one fails:

I bought the upgraded accelerator pedal lever kit. It is similar to the Buttys Bits one. I think this one has a smaller bearing. The pictures I saw of it showed it bolted to the outside of the bracket under the floor:

This did not work for me. The linkage angle was extreme. I think it would saw through the grommet, floor mat quickly. I ended up setting it up where the Buttys one goes. It is better, but I had to put the top end of the linkage through the accelerator pedal from the outside. It works great though. I also got a greaseable E Brake pivot pin from Jeremy H.

I plumbed up the brake hard lines. I bought a Wolfgang dual circuit MC kit from a swap meet last year. The spacer was missing. I was hoping I would not need it. I made a new push rod shorter than the OG one, but the resivior hits the cross member, and the pedal linkage hits the MC:

I put some nuts in for temporary spacers while I plumbed up the lines:

Also, with the second brake light switch on the MC and the spacer I will have to hack my pedal pan if I use it. I really don't want to cut it up. We will see...
Probably didn't need to buff this:

My son and I put the main wire harness in. We soldered all of the spade connectors to the wires beforehand:

My goal was to do everything I could while the bus was still on the rotisserie. We also put the beam in:

We decided that we still had some time last night, so we jacked up the bus and put it on jack stands. We left the front section of the rotisserie on for stability, and took off the back half so we could get the transaxle in:

We made major progress!
Lots of parts to build up the boxes and brakes:

Always remember:
Put the stub axle in before the top outer axle bearing!
Put the outer stub axle bearing on after the cover goes on!
Put the spacer in!
Anyway, we still made some progress:

The other side is done minus the brakes. Maybe tomorrow.

[npbusguy]

Great progress, way to go.
I especially like the overspray in the wheel wells, looks much more factory than if everything was taped off and had crisp edges.

[Burlyhammer]

[type2rescuemaine]

[Burlyhammer]

[sgellis]

Exciting times. Amazing transformation!
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[Burlyhammer]

[djfordmanjack]

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