MPS/MAP Mount

[chaosisme]

The rubber mounts that attach my MPS to the car broke off. I haven't been able to take out the plate it mounts to but how do the rubber bits attach? Do I have replace the whole plate with a good used one? Or is there some way to fix just those rubber pieces? I don't think I've ever seen replacements and being a fuel injection part I doubt it.

Has anybody had to replace this before?

I've attached a potato quality video for reference:

https://youtube.com/watch?v=U0fYLGW_5_0
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'65 1500 S [quareback]

'68 FI Sunroof Squareback

'70 Westy

OCT3 - Orange County Type 3's

[raygreenwood]

I will poat pictures in about an hour.

But.....and I may be wrong because it may be a "type 3 thing".......but those two 6mm bolts look like they were taken from a totally different type of vibration isolator.

From everything I have seen....that black bracket that is still mounted to the firewall with anywhere from three to four 6mm phillips head sheet metal screws....should have a grommet and a brass bushing around each of the 3-4 screws....and the screws that actually mount that bracket to the MPS.....should just be a pair of 6mm bolts with 10mm heads or a pair of 6mm Phillips head machine screws.

I have a really vague memory that some of the very early D-jet MPS mounts may have had a firewall bracket that was solid mount with the virnration isolators between the MPS and bracket. Ray

[KTPhil]

Do you have the bracket shown in the photos below?

[KTPhil]

I've lost one or two of those insulated spacers, but my spare MPSs have had ones I "borrowed."

But I've sometimes wondered what I would do if I ran short. They are a solid cylinder, with a slotted rubber buffer around them to provide shock protection. I wondered if a simple grommet with a washer on one side might suffice.

I am not a fan of the original attachment. A sheet metal screw is NOT a good candidate for repeated removal and replacement. Two of my screw holes in the body have been enlarged by R&Ring them, and I had to find slightly larger screws. But this, too, will wear out, forcing me to think bigger. Perhaps a rivetnut, or other fastener will be needed. I don't think the original system even included a lockwasher or wavy washer... it depended on the sheet metal deformation at the threads to provide staying torque. I have at least learned to only loosen one, and slide the bracket out of the other two without loosening them. Again, I am only buying time.

This might be a time to entertain a better fastening system.

By the way, it is allegedly critical to mount this with buffering, and in the correct orientation, in order avoid wear or damage on bumps and even hard maneuvers or braking. The moving mass has momentum, and the innards are designed to take loads in only certain directions. This is what I've heard, though I can tell you just what parts are damaged by what movement.

[raygreenwood]

[chaosisme]

Thanks for all the replies!

I looked into everybody's suggestions but since my fuel injection setup was/is working pretty well, I decided to put everything back together as close as possible to what was in there before, even though it would appear that may not be stock.

Anyway, I ended up using these:

http://www.autohausaz.com/pn/1179880111

The studs are a little bit too long, so I fastened it to the bracket with the 6mm nuts that I originally took off it, and just cut off the excess part of the stud.

The other end is longer than the original isolators I took out but it doesnt matter for the MPS end.

Got everything bolted up and it looks pretty good!

One thing I did notice when the mounts originally broke is that the angle of the MPS seems to make a difference on idle, have any of you noticed that?

When the mounts broke and the MPS was just hanging, my idle was really high. So I moved the MPS out of the way and it was pointing vertically when I reset the idle (did it by ear, it was dark and I didnt have my dwell meter/tach with me because I was at work). I got it close and then used the coat hanger to reattach the MPS to get home and when I restarted the car the idle was so low the car wouldnt run, so I reset it again and got it running ok and took off for home. By the time I got home it had changed it again (at least it seemed like it).

I'll be resetting it properly now that everything is back together but I was wondering if anybody else had ever experienced that.
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'65 1500 S [quareback]

'68 FI Sunroof Squareback

'70 Westy

OCT3 - Orange County Type 3's

[raygreenwood]

For one...it shouod be horizontal. Bumps and gravity can make a difference on that rather heavy armature rod inside.

But......I would feel safe to say.....you have more going on than that. Check the MPS and its hose for vacuum leaks. It must hold vacuum

Also check for perfect connections at the plug....and in the plugs connectors.

Also....a common oddity here on cars with oil bath air cleaners......if it has not been cleaned out In ages.....the MPS tend to oil up in cars that have lots of stop and go and short shut downs....especially in warm climates. Oil vapors condense inside. I have found many many MPS with 1-2 ounces of motor oil inside.

Be sure yours is not full of oil. Ray

[chaosisme]

[raygreenwood]