Automatic Transaxle

[ALIKA T3]

Hey guys!

I got a question for ya: how do you slide the pinion bearing race with the back to back seals without ruining the inner one ( towards the Ring and Pinion)?

I tried wiggle the plate onto the seal bushing, it finally went in but I didn't feel it today, so I took it apart again to double check and indeed it was ruined :/

Thanks
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Subaru EJ22+UN1 5 speed transmission
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=416343
Syncro http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4...num+gadget

[ALIKA T3]

[FarPoint]

To replace the 2 drive shaft seals, I found it easy to first remove the pentagon shape plate (see picture below). Remove the 5 bolts and pull out the plate. Then you can tap out the 2 seals from the back side of the pentagon plate.

Once the new seals are pressed in, there is a trick to re-mounting the pentagon plate. Since the inner diameter of the new seals are slightly smaller than the shaft diameter it will not easily slip over the shaft in this orientation. You have to expand the seals by inserting a thin walled tube with inner diameter slightly bigger the shaft diameter and guide the seals over the shaft. Once the pentagon plate is seated, you can pull out the tube. When inserting the tube, use lubricant like grease so as to not damage the seal. You don't want to damage the sealing surfaces of the seals so insert the tube gently with plenty of grease.

By shear luck (or by design) the metal tube that comes with the stock car jack is the perfect size for doing this (those German engineers have a weird sense humor).

Also, the pentagon plate has 2 o-rings, on my car the small one was flat so it was replace.

[OrganicMechanic]

Just scanned through the thread:

The seal that goes between the trans and diff is easly changed with out removing trans from bus. 4x 13mm nuts and a good firm yank will loosen and the hydro section comes off as a complete unit.

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[buspor63]

Funny this thread is close to the top, I was just thinking about auto trans today. So a professional rebuild is $3K? To add a Peloquin and change the R/P would add how much? I hear that might be a good combo for a more powerful engine like a 1.8T or Subaru 2.5 RS.

Thoughts? Don't burn me, I'm not messing with the 2WD Westy or Syncro.
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Imagine that, theres not an "h" in either Westfalia or Syncro?

[ThankYouJerry]

[FarPoint]

Here is an update on my auto transmission work:

The van is running now with new drive shaft seals between final drive and transmission and a new oil cooler. There are now no leaks which is great. My transmission leak was fixed by replacing the circular rubber seal that's on the flange of the final drive (where transmission bolts to final drive). You get this seal when you buy a paper gasket kit from Van Cafe.

What I'm noticing now is that when I shift from Park to Reverse to Drive, I hear a little "clunk". It's a little rough. Also, when I come to a stop the downshift to first isn't as smooth as before either.

There are no problems during upshift.

Could this be due to the accelerator cable not adjusted correctly? I replaced the Trottle body so the idle is fine.

Thanks,

[ALIKA T3]

[avernon82]

yes, likely you need to adjust your linkage. I don't think that will fix the clunk when shifting from Drive to Reverse. Mine does it, I don't worry about it.