Running better with advanced timing

[Sharp64]

[Cusser]

[bluebus86]

ok so you say it stalls and runs like crap at 7.5 degrees advance. the solution for the stalling is a carb adjustment as timing effects idle speed. so if your carb is adjusted for a 10 degree advance setting, and you travel to the middle of mongolia and all you can get is 70 octane fuel, and find you need to retard timing to 7.5 degrees, you would be expected to also reset the carb to give propper idle.

more advance means faster idle, less advance mean slower idle unless you adjust carb to compensate.

but you will get more power, more mileage with more advance, up to the limit of detonation. the grade of fuel determines how much advance the engine can safely handle.


good luck
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[Danwvw]

OK so yes that CB Performance PUlley would be the way to go for the Stock Look, that is nice! Yes make sure to get a pulley that is stock size and stock oil slinger unless you had the seal installed in you engine. The cheap aluminum pulleys are only good for one or two tries at installing they get too big for the crankshaft the more you move them around. The paint wears off real easy if you man handle them much but they will do the job otherwise if left alone.
You know I doubt a lot that it's possible to find TDC very well sticking something in the Spark Plug hole. UN less it's a dial indicator but there are several degrees of margin at TDC so even that would require judgment. What do you call TDC the the center of the play at the top or the beginning of the highest point? The Degree wheel is probably the very best up-grade any stock vw engine could get first.
Now on the subject of the tired 1300, For sure do the bottom end on it while it's out of the car. They are a very forgiving engine as far as hammering out at the case goes. Probably just needs new bearings and a crankshaft polish, I would replace the rods and go to the 88mm bore slip in perhaps L3 heads if going to a dp conversion or just rebuild the 1300 heads and have them opened and fly cut for the 88's, Compression will need to be about 8 to 1, use the W-100 or very close to it cam and yes if you want to try dual carbs like IDF or DRLA's Probably looking at making it a DP Dual Port engine but as a single port the W-100 plays very nice, I did it with the W-100 and a 69mm CCW crank and just 85.5 Bore (High CR, I had too much ran a little hot) light weight lifters, 1 3/8 header, stock heater boxes, etc... Tried different carbs, including a single Solex PBIC 32 from a 356 engine which gave it tremendous performance for a single but in the end I liked the torque and gas milage of the single Solex VW PIC-28 the best.
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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[Sharp64]

As I mentioned I was considering dual ICTs, mech only disty, and trimil sport exhaust but with the numbers I am seeing from the compression I won't be doing anything until I redo the compression test and it still poor I'll get a leak down kit and test for that. If the engine is still not looking up to handling upgrades, I'll just drive it as is until I can get the other engine I have a thread about built. But that's another story.

Went to tinker again today and tried to get the dwell up. After about 10 tries I pulled the points and they were pretty toasty looking. Ugh. Was going to change them out but remembered the rebuilt 113K had new points, condensor, etc so took the old out and out the new in. Set the dwell to 48 on the new points and tried the "7.5btdc" notch. Still runs like shit. Adjusted air/fuel/idle and get it idling but bad hesitation when you pull quickly on the throttle arm and occasionally backfires through the carb. Set the timing at what should be "10BTDC" and it runs like butta. Readjust the air/fuel/idle, take it for a romp and it drives nice. Accelerates nice and smooth, easy pulls over 55 in 3rd and just drives great. Not sure what to make of it at this point.

Out of time to tinker today as I've been farting around for most of two days now so I'll have to leave it. Any thoughts are appreciated. I may pull the 113T out tomorrow and swap that in. I also have a 30 PICT-1 with the power jet and a new rebuilt pierburg FP to put on in place of the generic one I have on now. Maybe I can get rid of the 5-6 gaskets sitting under it to bring my FP down tona reasonable level.
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1960 Indigo Blue Ragtop (Blue Barry)
1967 Ghia
1985 Westy Money Pit
“...some men aren't looking for anything logical, like money. They can't be bought, bullied, reasoned, or negotiated with. Some men just want to watch the world burn.” - Michael Caine

[VOLKSWAGNUT]

Growing up with ole auto timers. .. .. one of the first things they told me.. hard to set timing by specs on old engines with old parts .. or even new (overhauled) engines with old parts..

Always use base static timing to get them running.. and if they run good there.. then its good to go....
but
there's those few... you simply must.. tune by ear and by feel.. . and set it where an engine likes it..

Many a time... the ole' Mochanics I was fortunate to be in the shop with.. would set dwell correct.... set or creep up timing to spark knock and back them down until the spark knock was gone.. then take 2 more degrees out of them...
Yeah... ok.. not scientific.. not to specs.. a bit shade tree.. but in the end the engines ran well.. and made many customers happy for many miles.. Really can't dispute that it worked.. ..works....


Fuel is NOT the same as it was way back in the 30's-70's.. that's a big factor in why things sometimes don't seem right ignition timing wise.

A little extra timing wont hurt anything.. as long as there is ZERO detonation (spark knock)


Also.. timing for low octane and mid.. and high octane fuels.. can be several degrees different....
If you are using high octane.. and setting for the low crude VW spec fuel.. you are missing taking advantage of some pep in it's step.. ..

My 2 bits.. . most will say.. something is wrong with it.. oh well..
One things certain.. nothing is certain..with mechanical things and many variables.

.
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[tasb]

[Sharp64]

[Slow 1200]

[Slow 1200]

now, back to the OP, if your car is not idling right at 7,5BTDC there is definitely something wrong in there.

[Sharp64]

[Slow 1200]

typically you should be able to idle at anything beteween 0 and 20 BTDC, are you sure you don't have a vacuum leak?

[Sharp64]

[thomas.]

Is your car a 6 volt ? If you're using a modern dwell meter(not analog with a 6 volt select) you might be getting an incorrect dwell reading.

[Sharp64]

[calvinater]

Stock cam and gear?
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"Albatross"!

[Sharp64]

[Chad M]

I don't know that you can have too much dwell.... I'd open that gap back up to what is spec'd for your distributor and let the dwell fall where it may. If you think about your point gap and it's relationship to overall timing opening up the points might just move you back into that 7.5 range.

[VOLKSWAGNUT]

[Sharp64]