Lightweight engine hardware

[modok]

Should be a topic!
Today I noticed that some 2.5 subaru rod nuts fits VW, and it's lighter and stronger, 12mm head and flanged, so now I have to get some of those because.....(well, I guess it won't actually make any REAL difference but it'd be cool.) ah.... Will help stroker clearance!

Another one, is toyota 22r lash adjusters are NEARLY same as vw, and have 12mm jam nuts, so I'm going to start collecting those too.

Bell metric sells 12x1.5 flanged 18mm head nuts that work great on the main studs, they also sell extra thick big 8mm washers that work great on the head studs, trans side covers, ect.
Hondas use lots of 8x1.25 12mm head flanged nuts that work great everywhere.

Happy nut hunting

[Floating VW]

I used to tell my old man that my VW was better than his Chevy because my emergency tool kit basically only required a 13mm wrench to remove about 90% of all the bolts on the car. But man, those oddball 8 X 1.25's with a 12mm head sure do come in handy sometimes, especially in those hard to reach places like the manifolds. I guess having to throw an extra wrench in the tool kit just to take them off and put them back on isn't such a bad trade.
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"It's time you started treating people as individuals, rather than mathematically predictable members of an aggregate set, regardless of how well that works."

[modok]

Very often if I take a bolt out OFF the car, I usually replace it with a better one, if I have a better one.
The subaru rod nut has a part number: #802009010


How much lighter will the car be if every 13mm was 12mm?

For emergencies; vise-grips!

[esde]

I love these for intakes and exhaust, and any tight to get to spot
https://www.belmetric.com/hex-with-flange-c-3_51_5...1vhsmaots7
M8-1.25 10mm wrench, class 10
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modok wrote:
Bent cranks are silent but gather no moss. I mean, ah, something like that.

[oprn]

[slalombuggy]

[Floating VW]

[bugguy1967]

There's M12x1.5 15mm (15mm if memory serves) 12-point nuts. I keep a few sets at all times.

[bugguy1967]

[Howard 111]

The copper nuts are either solid copper, or steel covered with copper. Copper is soft compared to steel. I like the factory nuts and bolts which excludes copper or copper plated. Do everything just like built at the factory.
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1973 Karmann Ghia
Turbocharged, Fuel Injected
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=531270

[esde]

They're heavy copper plating.
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modok wrote:
Bent cranks are silent but gather no moss. I mean, ah, something like that.

[UK Luke 72]

[raygreenwood]

[Busstom]

X3. The stainless will be great for holding fenders and running boards on, holding the body on the pan maybe, and many other non-critical apps, but do NOT use them on any steering, suspension or axle retention applications. Prolly shouldn't use them in most tranny and engine mounting situations either...proper torquing can strain the soft threads and put you in a pinch sometime.
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My name's Steve and it's pronounced "Bust 'em" (cuz people think I'm Tom) 😏

[ach60]

[modok]

It's slightly hard to find the 12mm head flange nuts
Search for "M8-1.25 JIS Flange Class 10 B1190"

if used with the big washers from bell metric they can even hold on the heads, so then you have the head nuts leftover, use those to hold on the rocker shafts.

[UK Luke 72]

[quote="ach60"
Compared to a Datsun 310, a Beetle was built like a battleship.[/quote]

How many Datsun 310s are left now though