Floorpan Prep for Media Blasting

[mkeyser1]

Hello - I am working on my first bug (1960) with the body off and wanting to get the pans media blasted. I have removed the beam/suspension on the front and the trans/transaxle/suspension on the rear. What prep do I need to do on the pans before having them blasted? Specifically, I want to minimize the amount of media getting into places I don't want it. I worry about the tunnel and sand getting in there. What is the best method of plugging the openings in the tunnel? Some of the openings are round where a grommet would work but others are odd shaped so a plug is not available. Any advise would be appreciated. Thank you.
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1960 Beetle

[c21darrel]

tape up what you can. I didnt have any problem emptying out my tunnel. Tip it each way and lots of compressed air blown in from every angle.
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GhiaBuild
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=481184
1967 DC build
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=693583&highlight=67+dc
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[volksbug70]

I too plan on blasting my chassis very soon! My brother and I have it torn down pretty good so far.

I have some additional comments and questions that I think are worth contributing to this discussion:

I actually want to blast inside the tunnel. There is some rust in there around the front of the chassis (where the pedal assembly bolts up), but it is not rusted completely through. I plan to blast it and do my best to protect and paint it in there afterward. I will probably have to get creative. Luckily, the area of rust is isolated and not all the way down the tunnel. Anybody care to comment on their experience with the tunnel?

My main concern is around the spring plates. I will be rebuilding them (at least taking them out and replacing the bushings, and the diagonal arm bushings). The question is, do I blast them first, then disassemble and rebuild? Do I disassemble, blast, and then rebuild? (covering the holes in absence of the spring plates) Or do I disassemble, rebuild, and then blast?

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~Dave (Brother of Matts70Bug)
1970 Beetle
Undergoing Full Restoration as of February 2017!

[Q-Dog]

It will take hours to clean out all of the media when you are done. Hours.

It took 4 or 5 hours with a wire wheel on a grinder and a wire brush by hand in the tight spots to get me to bare metal all over on this one.

I applied Ospho all over to convert any residual rust. Primed and painted with Rustoleum after pans installed. Even this is way more than the factory ever did.

I would wet inside the tunnel with Ospho and then go on to something more important. You can paint inside if you want to.
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Brian

'69 Dune Buggy
'69 Beetle Convertible
'70 Beetle

[Chickensoup]

Hi everyone. Hope your day is going smoothly. Question, so I'm going to be media blasting my chassis w/ play sand. Is this too much crap build up or will the sand eat through it? Thanks

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-'85 c10 5.3 LS, 222 cam, long tubes, x pipe, 3 inch spin tech's
-'05 B5.5 TDI Wagon 17in sport rims ;EGR + BSM + ASV Delete, Stage-2 Tune, straight pipe
'65 Tourist Delivery Build
'66 RIP
'69 RIP
Hosea 4:6 "My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge"

[Evil_Fiz]

BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN BLASTING WITH PLAY SAND.
Inhaling the dust can cause lung damage (Look up Silicosis). Make sure you wear a quality respirator and do it outside. Crushed bottle glass is a good alternative to sand but is more expensive. Aluminum oxide is also an effective choice.

CDC information
https://www.cdc.gov/features/preventing-silicosis/index.html

Risks of using play sand
https://pittsburghsprayequip.com/blogs/pittsburgh-...uggestions

Mixed results
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/play-sand-for-blasting-use.300470/

Sand can cut through paint, rust, and any thin hard substance or coating. It will however struggle to cut rubbery coatings (glue), factory rustproofing in the wheel wells, and seam sealer. Use a torch and scraper for the rustproofing and seam sealer.

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Emil
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“…It's not just about what's interesting. It's also about what's helpful, and it's helpful even if it helps just one other guy working on a Ghia.”
kiwighia68

See my build on TheSamba at:
The K_R_A_K_E_N_N : a 70 Ghia Convertible reinterpreted

[Chickensoup]

Thanks for the response! The first two time i blasted media, my lugs took an impact so now i use a respirator, gloves, googles, long sleeves, and ear plugs. Sounds funny to some but if its what keeps me safe i dont care.

It looks like before using play sand, i should sift it, and make sure it's dry.

I will remove for of the gunk, this is what i found out yesterday, using black beauty mix from summit,

_________________
-'85 c10 5.3 LS, 222 cam, long tubes, x pipe, 3 inch spin tech's
-'05 B5.5 TDI Wagon 17in sport rims ;EGR + BSM + ASV Delete, Stage-2 Tune, straight pipe
'65 Tourist Delivery Build
'66 RIP
'69 RIP
Hosea 4:6 "My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge"

[johnnyvw164]

You can get 80 lb bags of black beauty for under $50 from McMaster-Carr industrial supply. Do yourself a favor and stay away from using play sand for something that large. Put out a huge tarp to reclaim and reuse it if you feel the need.

[Dibaltic]

This is the material I use when blasting. I always use respirator, ear plugs, goggles, gloves.

Black Diamond fine coal slag. $9.99 for 50 LBS
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/black-diamond-fine-blasting-abrasives?cm_vc=-10011

[Chickensoup]

[Dibaltic]

[misterh]

[Evil_Fiz]

I built an enclosure out of PVC pipe and plastic sheeting. It cost me about $200 but I was able to reclaim the glass bead media and get away with two 50 Lbs. bags. I blasted my entire pan and about 1/2 of the body on my convertible Ghia.

The enclosure will also serve as a paint booth so I spread the cost out.

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Emil
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“…It's not just about what's interesting. It's also about what's helpful, and it's helpful even if it helps just one other guy working on a Ghia.”
kiwighia68

See my build on TheSamba at:
The K_R_A_K_E_N_N : a 70 Ghia Convertible reinterpreted

[kman]