fasteners for interior / door panels

[RainierSyncro]

Bought some ABS panels a while back:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1395379

There are some plastic fasteners that came with it, but they don't look reusable.
http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=a14997&Search.x=13&Search.y=8

I had to take a panel off and ended up destroying a few because the plastic screw gets stripped. Anyway, is there a heavy duty metal fastener out there that will work?

[Paulbeard]

I hope those are reusable as I plan to paint the (installed) rear hatch and new slider door panel pretty soon, when we get a warm/dry day (so July, I guess?).
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Currently -> Frida: 87 Tizian Red (mostly) Vanagon GL Westfalia w/ 2.0L ABA conversion
Formerly -> Steward of a 73 Super Beetle (Beater) and 67 Beetle 1300 (Little Max) both names by POs

[fxr]

IME, they are ~75% reusable, if that. Very poor design.

I'll be investigating using drywall inserts or something similar next time I have to take a panel off.
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Jim Crowther
1984 1.9l EJ22 Westy Wolfsburg Edition
Vespa GTS 300

[RainierSyncro]

Ok, I think I found a candidate for a decent panel fastener. It's called a well nut. Sort of a rubber sleeve that slides in the hole in the door. At the tip of this rubber sleeve, is a nut. Put the panel on, run a bolt through it and tighten. The bolt compresses the rubber and holds the panel in place. Presto! Cheap and reusable from various suppliers. I just found out GoWesty uses then for their ABS panels. They're calling them "deluxe fasteners".

[Christopher Schimke]

If you use well-nuts, make sure that you use a really good waterproof grease or good quality anti-seize on the threads. The brass inserts have a tenancy to corrode onto the screws (stainless, cadmium or zinc plated screws are pretty far away from brass on the galvanic table) making future removal a serious pain.
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*Custom wheel hardware for Audi/VW, Porsche and Mercedes wheels - Urethane Suspension Bushings*
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[Merian]

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Well_nut


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....

[Butcher]

It's a great design, but a very poor execution. The plastic is too soft and the threads strip. A few more minutes and pennies could of made the threads thicker and a better plastic would prevent the threads stripping out. They go in easy, but they do not unscrew easy at all. Most of the time they strip.

[IdahoDoug]

I ordered a box of the proper trim fasteners from a local body shop supply house. They were like $4 for a box of 50 or more. I put a thread somewhere on here with the brand and part number.

Doug
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1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader

[RainierSyncro]

Can you tell me what brand of trim fasteners you used? You post A LOT of stuff on the Samba and I can't find the thread mentioning the fasteners.

[Paulbeard]

I just opened the package with my new slider door panel (paint is en route: Krylon Fusion Pewter Gray looks close enough™) and am wondering about those fasteners myself. Ideally, you only put them to the test once, at installation time. And the instructions are quite clear about hand-tightening them.

I guess I'll see how well they hold up to an R&R when I paint the hatch panel. Is the concern the threaded fastener or the molly-bolt piece that goes into the body work?
_________________
Currently -> Frida: 87 Tizian Red (mostly) Vanagon GL Westfalia w/ 2.0L ABA conversion
Formerly -> Steward of a 73 Super Beetle (Beater) and 67 Beetle 1300 (Little Max) both names by POs

[IdahoDoug]

Rainier,

Fixed for you: "Can you tell me what brand of trim fasteners you used? You post A LOT of useless crap on the Samba and I can't find the thread mentioning the fasteners."


Paul,

Here's a link to my thread on the color with pics. The paint is holding up pretty well, too. Mainly because my Van has been languishing in the garage and not sustaining any wear!!! Cough..... Link: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=617369&highlight=hatch+panel

I will look for the box of the fasteners and post up.

Doug
_________________
1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader

[Paulbeard]

Well, sadly, I just learned that these are not reusable/removable. I somehow managed to jam my hatch closed so I can't open it from outside. So I need to get the inside. Judge of my satisfaction at having to drill out these fasteners so I can remove that panel.

:2gunfire:

I'll be hunting up replacements for the hatch panel and the newly arrived slider panel, once I get them painted.

One &*^%^ thing after another, it seems.
_________________
Currently -> Frida: 87 Tizian Red (mostly) Vanagon GL Westfalia w/ 2.0L ABA conversion
Formerly -> Steward of a 73 Super Beetle (Beater) and 67 Beetle 1300 (Little Max) both names by POs

[IdahoDoug]

So, these are the fasteners I used. Note the hole size needed is 8mm which worked perfectly with the metal holes in the van's hatch and walls. The hole in the trim panel is usually larger to allow for some variation.

Unfortunately, I noted for the first time when I found the box up on a back shelf that someone hand wrote the part number, vs the printed label p/n. So there are two p/n for you to figure out which one is the actual. I got these at a Fastenal store, and I think I previously got them at a Fasteners, Inc. store. They were an off the shelf item.

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1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader

[Paulbeard]

https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0162665 is the one. Look like the ones that came with the ABS panels I have but i'll assume they are better.

I think I may go with these. They are simple friction fit, no screw threads to deal with. If I later want to cover the panel with fabric or vinyl, these will work (if they are cemented to the panel substrate properly).
_________________
Currently -> Frida: 87 Tizian Red (mostly) Vanagon GL Westfalia w/ 2.0L ABA conversion
Formerly -> Steward of a 73 Super Beetle (Beater) and 67 Beetle 1300 (Little Max) both names by POs

[erste]

I used these on my wood panels:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040D2QGO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

50 Trim Panel Retainers Ford N807721-S Chrysler6504043

They're the right size and depth, but they basically have to be destroyed when you need to remove them. Really it's a pain in the ass. Trimming down the 'barbs' would probably make them easier to remove.

Any amount of prying on the head just tears it off and then shaft has to be removed with needle nose pliers. That's been my experience with that style fastener at least.

Still, not a bad alternative considering how much they're charging for the stock clips...

[IdahoDoug]

Agree those r a pain. These are removable and the prying of the barbed ones tears up panels.
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1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader

[rmcd]

I've got a bunch of Werksberg panels and the reusable clips. JM is a super nice dude.

So far I like the reusable clips. I have found that if I screw in the threaded part a few turns they "catch" the threads better.

I've found that I need some longer ones for custom stuff. I've got a panel van and JM doesn't yet have templates. Plus I've got Fatmat and will eventually add upholstery to my Werksberg panels.



Thanks for the Fastenal link.

I'll report back after ordering longer reusable clips.

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VW LT40 build. Like a Vanagon but 30% larger in every direction and 40% slower even in metric.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=749359&highlight=

[RainierSyncro]

Bought some well nuts to fasten my aluminum diamond plate panel to the rear hatch. I pushed the well nuts into the holes in the hatch first and then put the panel over it so there was a rubber buffer between the panel and the hatch reducing vibration. A metal grommet was used to hold the panel better. Put some anti-seize goo on the screw (there was a mention of dissimilar metals rusting together) and started turning. At first, the screws weren't holding at all. The panel was trying to come off the hatch. I kept at it until the screws finally started to catch. Panel is stable and doesn't move at all. The weight of the panel and time may have an effect on the well nuts, but I think that will be years from now. Anyway, I think I found my reusable solution to those easily strippable plastic screw fasteners.

[Paulbeard]

That might work for a bespoke panel like yours (diamond plate? nice…) but mine have pre-cut holes and the required number of well nuts would break my meager budget. So I used the supplied fasteners on my new panel and if I have to remove it, I know how to drill them out.

Never could find the ones IdahoDoug recommended.
_________________
Currently -> Frida: 87 Tizian Red (mostly) Vanagon GL Westfalia w/ 2.0L ABA conversion
Formerly -> Steward of a 73 Super Beetle (Beater) and 67 Beetle 1300 (Little Max) both names by POs

[vanagonjr]