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KollynnBlackpaw
Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2016
Posts: 528
Location: Hubbard, Oregon
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 Posted: Tue Jul 04, 2017 2:58 pm Post subject: Re: "Blue" '72 Square build from a newbie. |
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| Mike Fisher wrote: |
| Just a WAG on my part since you didn't post any pictures of your exhaust problem. |
Aye, I'll have some up today  I was hoping somehow some way the Bug exhaust I got from my boss would fit, but it's too short/thin to go on a T3 engine. Sucks cause I have a really nice exhaust for it. Maybe I could ask my neighbor to cut and weld the flange to the T3 exhaust instead?
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'71 Shantung Yellow AT/FI Squareback |
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KollynnBlackpaw
Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2016
Posts: 528
Location: Hubbard, Oregon
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| Posted: Sat Jul 08, 2017 11:41 am Post subject: Re: "Blue" '72 Square build from a newbie. |
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It's official - Blue can stop (kinda!) I can't bleed the other brake due to someone stripping the bolt before me - I'll be taking it to the shop I work at and seeing if anyone can help me after hours. But I got one brake done, and have SOME brake power! I had my sister drive it with me to my work today to get the tires filled up again.
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raygreenwood
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21513
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Sat Jul 08, 2017 12:45 pm Post subject: Re: "Blue" '72 Square build from a newbie. |
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| KollynnBlackpaw wrote: |
| It's official - Blue can stop (kinda!) I can't bleed the other brake due to someone stripping the bolt before me - I'll be taking it to the shop I work at and seeing if anyone can help me after hours. But I got one brake done, and have SOME brake power! I had my sister drive it with me to my work today to get the tires filled up again. |
Good work!...to a point.
What do you mean the other bleeder screw is stripped? Do you mean that the outer hex is stripped and you cannot turn it?....or do you mean its broken off in the closed position?
If the hex is stripped...simply put penetrating oil on it...drive it around to heat it up or heat it with a torch...and then remove it with vise grip pliers.
If the screw is broken off but sealed....check in this thread about rebuilding calipers on drill length and sizes for drilling out the center.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=658176
The acid treatment to eat rust out of the threads can be done with a few drops of CLR bathroom rust treatment or Ospho brand (or any brand) of phosphoric acid rust treatment. Drill out the inner core....heat up teh screw a little...just a few hundred degrees.....you can even do this with a bic lighter or a grill lighter. Then apply some ospho as its cooling. The cooling will cause the phosphoric acid to be drawn into the microscopic fissures in the rust as the screw cools down. Since it dissolves rust....it will soon be loose.
If you put penetrating oil and a little heat on a broken off bleeder valve...and then drill away just a little metal from the inside of the screw....it relieves the stress and the rusted screw cracks loose about 90% of the time.
You can then tap a small torx bit into the hole in the screw and back it out
Brake bleeder screws are a wear item and disposable. I automatically throw them away and replace them when I work on brakes unless they are speed bleeders in almost new shape.
You really NEED to quit driving around on brakes that are known to be defective. I know you are working on it....but its a hazard to you and the other people on the road. Ray |
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KollynnBlackpaw
Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2016
Posts: 528
Location: Hubbard, Oregon
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| Posted: Sat Jul 08, 2017 3:38 pm Post subject: Re: "Blue" '72 Square build from a newbie. |
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| raygreenwood wrote: |
| KollynnBlackpaw wrote: |
| It's official - Blue can stop (kinda!) I can't bleed the other brake due to someone stripping the bolt before me - I'll be taking it to the shop I work at and seeing if anyone can help me after hours. But I got one brake done, and have SOME brake power! I had my sister drive it with me to my work today to get the tires filled up again. |
Good work!...to a point.
What do you mean the other bleeder screw is stripped? Do you mean that the outer hex is stripped and you cannot turn it?....or do you mean its broken off in the closed position?
If the hex is stripped...simply put penetrating oil on it...drive it around to heat it up or heat it with a torch...and then remove it with vise grip pliers.
If the screw is broken off but sealed....check in this thread about rebuilding calipers on drill length and sizes for drilling out the center.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=658176
The acid treatment to eat rust out of the threads can be done with a few drops of CLR bathroom rust treatment or Ospho brand (or any brand) of phosphoric acid rust treatment. Drill out the inner core....heat up teh screw a little...just a few hundred degrees.....you can even do this with a bic lighter or a grill lighter. Then apply some ospho as its cooling. The cooling will cause the phosphoric acid to be drawn into the microscopic fissures in the rust as the screw cools down. Since it dissolves rust....it will soon be loose.
If you put penetrating oil and a little heat on a broken off bleeder valve...and then drill away just a little metal from the inside of the screw....it relieves the stress and the rusted screw cracks loose about 90% of the time.
You can then tap a small torx bit into the hole in the screw and back it out
Brake bleeder screws are a wear item and disposable. I automatically throw them away and replace them when I work on brakes unless they are speed bleeders in almost new shape.
You really NEED to quit driving around on brakes that are known to be defective. I know you are working on it....but its a hazard to you and the other people on the road. Ray |
Agree on the brakes, however if I didn't get air soon I wouldn't have trusted driving on it at all, and have no decent spares. Blue's spare had none, probably was used for the wiper fluid by PO. And the he is stripped. I'm actually trying what you said with penetrant, and it's just sitting right now. I'll get to it tonight after work.
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'71 Shantung Yellow AT/FI Squareback |
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KollynnBlackpaw
Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2016
Posts: 528
Location: Hubbard, Oregon
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| Posted: Fri Jul 14, 2017 10:38 pm Post subject: Re: "Blue" '72 Square build from a newbie. |
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Soon I'll be having my car checked out by the one of the mechanics depot guys at the shop I work at, just to make sure he's safe and sound (and have them bleed the brakes for me, since I just can't get it to move. Maybe I'm just a weakling!  )
I'm also still looking for a new Driver's seat. Might have to swing toward Eugene to Mike if he has a decent white seat for me, maybe some chrome too. Thinking about replacing the rear with the nice one I got off Blueberry, as I hadn't thought I'd replace it but it's quite nice comparatively.
Buying a rear cargo mat from ISPWest, looking at maybe new carpet, and going to maybe try and get the spindles all swapped out with Blueberry's lowered ones. Since Blue runs and all I need done is the brakes, I'm looking to make him nicer finally! 
Unfortunately, though, I broke my phone's camera lens (first thing to break on it at least) so no pictures as of recent, but more soon to come!
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Mike Fisher
Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2006
Posts: 17970
Location: Eugene, OR
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| Posted: Sat Jul 15, 2017 8:48 am Post subject: Re: "Blue" '72 Square build from a newbie. |
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I don't have any white seats left to sell, so you might as well buy new white TMI seat covers for your seats. The seats changed a little every year, so order the correct year seat covers. Does your '70 & '72 both have early 2 side rail seat guides? Some '72 T3 had the later 3 mount seats like Beetles.
You have cut & welded lowered spindles from Old Speed in CA or 1 piece lowered spindles from BerT3 in Belgium? Most all of our T3's are lowered just by adjusting the splines on the torsion bars front & rear.
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https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey |
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KollynnBlackpaw
Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2016
Posts: 528
Location: Hubbard, Oregon
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| Posted: Sat Jul 15, 2017 11:05 am Post subject: Re: "Blue" '72 Square build from a newbie. |
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| Mike Fisher wrote: |
I don't have any white seats left to sell, so you might as well buy new white TMI seat covers for your seats. The seats changed a little every year, so order the correct year seat covers. Does your '70 & '72 both have early 2 side rail seat guides? Some '72 T3 had the later 3 mount seats like Beetles.
You have cut & welded lowered spindles from Old Speed in CA or 1 piece lowered spindles from BerT3 in Belgium? Most all of our T3's are lowered just by adjusting the splines on the torsion bars front & rear. |
Well, shoot. Oh well! Yes, he does have the two rail guides. Do you have any other colour seats? I can always redo the cover later, but mine are so screwed I'd have to order all new everything, which would be a chunk of money for me. As far as the spindles go, I'm not sure as he came with them as one of his "selling points." Is there any way I could tell? I may be able to find the receipt for them in his folder.
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Mike Fisher
Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2006
Posts: 17970
Location: Eugene, OR
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| Posted: Sat Jul 15, 2017 1:26 pm Post subject: Re: "Blue" '72 Square build from a newbie. |
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I have a good pair or full set of black seats. Old Speed are cut & re-welded, so they should be easy to spot. BerT3 only machined 50 custom sets & they go for $500+. They'd look different than stock spindles too.
Driver seat $60
Front pair $100
Full set $150
Bring extra money down here to Harrisburg, because I imagine I have more stuff you'll want/need.
_________________
https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey |
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KollynnBlackpaw
Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2016
Posts: 528
Location: Hubbard, Oregon
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| Posted: Sat Jul 15, 2017 4:57 pm Post subject: Re: "Blue" '72 Square build from a newbie. |
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| Mike Fisher wrote: |
I have a good pair or full set of black seats. Old Speed are cut & re-welded, so they should be easy to spot. BerT3 only machined 50 custom sets & they go for $500+. They'd look different than stock spindles too.
Driver seat $60
Front pair $100
Full set $150
Bring extra money down here to Harrisburg, because I imagine I have more stuff you'll want/need. |
For sure! I'll probably just take the one black one as the back and passenger are acceptable. And in that case I doubt they're berT3 lol.
I'll probably snag some chrome, too, since I'm missing a couple pieces, maybe sun visors that aren't out of a super beetle. All kinds of little things! I'll let you know when I'm free to come out.
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KollynnBlackpaw
Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2016
Posts: 528
Location: Hubbard, Oregon
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| Posted: Sat Jul 15, 2017 9:33 pm Post subject: Re: "Blue" '72 Square build from a newbie. |
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Well, while we didn't drive anywhere (we actually pushed it to the very open unbusy street just down the couldesac) we "drove" it to see if anythign was wrong with the engine or anything before taking it to the shop. He idles well, but seems to get some backfire here and there. We only "drove" for about 5 minutes, plus 5 minutes of seeing if there was anything immediately wrong with the engine.
Unfortunately, as you all know, I'm still not great with engines and mechanical portions of stuff, so any suggestions would be great! I tried the carb cleaner trick and it doesn't seem to be a leak, so I guess that's good at least.
He'll drive fine, hasn't died or anything like that, but definitely putters. I noticed it mostly happened when I had Mom drive it in second, if that's any help for you to help me
Since I know Ray will tell me not to have driven without good brakes, yes I know and yes I'm sorry, but if I don't find out now I won't be able to have it looked at when he goes to the shop! I did, also, make sure we were on the least busy road in town (helps that a festival is going on at the other side of town, so it's even less busy ) and was only done on a long stretch of road, but within a very small amount of it.
I also put on my Baby Moons today and it looks fantastic. I'm planning on doing a kind of eggshell white on the rims, if I ever get the chance. Maybe just black, if I don't. Paint is expensive, even if I get to learn it!
Side note: how do I get the fender antenna out/ where can I get a decent but original looking dash speaker/ is there any good threads about hooking up a simple old radio? Every thread I find is a very high-end stereo system, which I don't really want.
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Mike Fisher
Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2006
Posts: 17970
Location: Eugene, OR
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| Posted: Sun Jul 16, 2017 1:09 pm Post subject: Re: "Blue" '72 Square build from a newbie. |
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You are giving up too easy! Buy some new bleeder screws to install where needed and get the brakes working as your #1 priority. You need a 4"X8" speaker to fit up under a late model dash.
_________________
https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey |
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KollynnBlackpaw
Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2016
Posts: 528
Location: Hubbard, Oregon
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| Posted: Sun Jul 16, 2017 1:56 pm Post subject: Re: "Blue" '72 Square build from a newbie. |
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| Mike Fisher wrote: |
| You are giving up too easy! Buy some new bleeder screws to install where needed and get the brakes working as your #1 priority. You need a 4"X8" speaker to fit up under a late model dash. |
Oh it's not that I'm giving up! I just can't get them out. I want to try heat, but have nothing better than a bit lighter haha. I do plan on replacing the bleeders when I can actually get em to go, though. And thank you for the speaker info! The one I pulled from blueberry is too small since he's a "between" model. Lots of early model bits like the steering wheel, but still a late model.
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Mike Fisher
Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2006
Posts: 17970
Location: Eugene, OR
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| Posted: Sun Jul 16, 2017 3:00 pm Post subject: Re: "Blue" '72 Square build from a newbie. |
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You need 'Vice Grip' type pliers to muscle out stripped off bleeder screws etc.
_________________
https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey |
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raygreenwood
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21513
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Sun Jul 16, 2017 3:19 pm Post subject: Re: "Blue" '72 Square build from a newbie. |
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| KollynnBlackpaw wrote: |
| Mike Fisher wrote: |
| You are giving up too easy! Buy some new bleeder screws to install where needed and get the brakes working as your #1 priority. You need a 4"X8" speaker to fit up under a late model dash. |
Oh it's not that I'm giving up! I just can't get them out. I want to try heat, but have nothing better than a bit lighter haha. I do plan on replacing the bleeders when I can actually get em to go, though. And thank you for the speaker info! The one I pulled from blueberry is too small since he's a "between" model. Lots of early model bits like the steering wheel, but still a late model. |
If they are not yet broken off.....drill out the core like I showed in that caliper thread I linked to.....which relieves stress on the threads.....pentrating oil.....and a bick lighter will work fine. Just need to hold it onto the bleeder screw for about,1-2 minutes......or take it in and lay it across the edge of the burner on the stove.....done that too. Heat is heat.....do thiw becore putting pentrating oil on it.
Then use vise grips like Mike Fisher noted. Ray |
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KollynnBlackpaw
Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2016
Posts: 528
Location: Hubbard, Oregon
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| Posted: Sun Jul 16, 2017 8:53 pm Post subject: Re: "Blue" '72 Square build from a newbie. |
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| raygreenwood wrote: |
| KollynnBlackpaw wrote: |
| Mike Fisher wrote: |
| You are giving up too easy! Buy some new bleeder screws to install where needed and get the brakes working as your #1 priority. You need a 4"X8" speaker to fit up under a late model dash. |
Oh it's not that I'm giving up! I just can't get them out. I want to try heat, but have nothing better than a bit lighter haha. I do plan on replacing the bleeders when I can actually get em to go, though. And thank you for the speaker info! The one I pulled from blueberry is too small since he's a "between" model. Lots of early model bits like the steering wheel, but still a late model. |
If they are not yet broken off.....drill out the core like I showed in that caliper thread I linked to.....which relieves stress on the threads.....pentrating oil.....and a bick lighter will work fine. Just need to hold it onto the bleeder screw for about,1-2 minutes......or take it in and lay it across the edge of the burner on the stove.....done that too. Heat is heat.....do thiw becore putting pentrating oil on it.
Then use vise grips like Mike Fisher noted. Ray |
Glad to hear a bick will work. I'll attempt it tomorrow since it's finally my day off, and yeah I've been using vice grips but they've not given. I'd been worried it was reverse threaded, but it'd not matter as I've tried both ways.
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KollynnBlackpaw
Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2016
Posts: 528
Location: Hubbard, Oregon
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| Posted: Sun Jul 16, 2017 8:55 pm Post subject: Re: "Blue" '72 Square build from a newbie. |
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| Mike Fisher wrote: |
I have a good pair or full set of black seats. Old Speed are cut & re-welded, so they should be easy to spot. BerT3 only machined 50 custom sets & they go for $500+. They'd look different than stock spindles too.
Driver seat $60
Front pair $100
Full set $150
Bring extra money down here to Harrisburg, because I imagine I have more stuff you'll want/need. |
Also, Mike, would next weekend work for you?
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Mike Fisher
Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2006
Posts: 17970
Location: Eugene, OR
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| Posted: Mon Jul 17, 2017 9:55 am Post subject: Re: "Blue" '72 Square build from a newbie. |
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| KollynnBlackpaw wrote: |
| Mike Fisher wrote: |
I have a good pair or full set of black seats. Old Speed are cut & re-welded, so they should be easy to spot. BerT3 only machined 50 custom sets & they go for $500+. They'd look different than stock spindles too.
Driver seat $60
Front pair $100
Full set $150
Bring extra money down here to Harrisburg, because I imagine I have more stuff you'll want/need. |
Also, Mike, would next weekend work for you? |
PM sent.
_________________
https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey |
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KollynnBlackpaw
Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2016
Posts: 528
Location: Hubbard, Oregon
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| Posted: Thu Jul 20, 2017 1:11 am Post subject: Re: "Blue" '72 Square build from a newbie. |
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Gettin things figured out for taking Blue up to the shop soon. I've been just too busy to deal with him this week unfortunately. The backfiring has me worried, as does the return of the fuel in oil issue. On the bright side I got his old VW hood emblem off and back in the new hood, so that's a plus I guess! 
I'm excited to be getting him a new seat, though, as the current one cannot be adjusted since the PO busted the adjuster. Sits alllll the way back, ridin like a pimp. I'll also be receiving my cargo mat from ISP West tomorrow, to cover up the holes in the cargo area floor and the ugly bedliner spray job.
Other than that I'd like to figure out getting his hood release latch hooked up correctly, of course I'd have to buy a new cable first. I also fixed the window winder, though without the clip on it it's a bit stiff and loud.
I recently decided against the pop out windows as I just didn't want to deal with them, because luck will have it that it'll be burning hot the day I take them out and pouring rain while there's no windows in either car.
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Mike Fisher
Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2006
Posts: 17970
Location: Eugene, OR
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| Posted: Thu Jul 20, 2017 9:09 am Post subject: Re: "Blue" '72 Square build from a newbie. |
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The hood release is tricky to get perfect/consistent. I probably have a good used cable? Did you test your fuel pressure at 28 lbs. Remind me to show you the fuel pressure test gauge I rigged up from Home Depot parts. Did you blow out your metal fuel return line in the passenger side of the tunnel? Mine got plugged up and forced gas into my oil.
Make a list of parts/questions etc for Saturday! 
_________________
https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey |
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KollynnBlackpaw
Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2016
Posts: 528
Location: Hubbard, Oregon
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| Posted: Thu Jul 20, 2017 8:45 pm Post subject: Re: "Blue" '72 Square build from a newbie. |
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Got some parts and work in today! I received my amazing cargo mat from ISP West and it's fantastic, I gotta say. Also I love the smell of fresh rubber!
Out with the old...
In with the new!
I'm sure it's not installed correctly and that's fine as I'll have to be messing with it to get to the engine until Blue runs a bit better.
I also bought a horn bar rather than ring, as I preferred the chrome, it was cheap, and I think it personally thing it looks cooler than the half ring.
Swapped out the EMPI trigger shifter, too, as mom disliked the pattern. I also discovered a bus knob fits on the squareback's shifter, and since I had a spare from the bus, I put it on. I'll probably learn on this and swap back to the trigger at some point, as I personally thought it was fine.
I'll be chatting with the head mechanic on Tuesday about bringing my car into our shop and looking at it / getting some issues sorted. I'll be telling him what Mike has suggested about the fuel pressure and return line.
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