2004 Subaru 2.5L DOHC turbo Vanagon conversion.

[11BC2]

Did you remove the the sensors or motors before installation?
The sensors have to have a preload on them.
Also, you can get new sensors.

[WillSharp]

[WillSharp]

I forgot to mention what I did with wiring for gauges and throttle pedal.
My throttle pedal has 6 wires and then my gauges require 1 from each sensor 3 wires total. My gauges are H2O temp, oil pressure, trans. temp, and turbo boost. The boost doesn't have a sensor just a vacuum line to the gauge from the intake so no sensor wire for it.(yes I have a 25' long vacuum line all the way up to the gauge)

So I needed 9 wires from the engine bay to the dash. I found a 9 wire 18gauge speaker cable on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/Metra-MC918-20-20-Feet-Nine-Conductor-Multi-Use/dp/B004H1KAMQ/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1507756340&sr=8-7&keywords=9+wire+speaker+wire) that worked out perfect. It was 20 feet long and I used about 19 feet.

My tachometer I had recalibrate for the subie and equipped with a 8,000 rpm face by Small Cars. I haven't wired it yet.
Im not planning on connecting the stock vanagon coolant temp and oil pressure gauge since I have more accurate new gauges. This means that a lot of my wiring to my dash is done.

I am also trying to decide what I should do about a water pump for the intercooler. The one that came with the kit is 500gph and pulls over 2 amps. It is the same pump used in like 1200hp intercooler kits, so it makes me wonder if its a bit excessively large for my little system.(I'm not going to be running high boost so I don't need tons of cooling capacity)
My first thought was reducing the voltage to make it run slower?
The pump is the Rule 401FC
Manual link: http://www.fondriest.com/pdf/rule_401fc_manual.pdf
What do you wiring people think? Would this work?
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1889 Syncro Adventure Wagon 3.3 SVX

[WillSharp]

While the intake manifold is off for the TGV deletion, I am analyzing the PCV system to try to wrap it up too. I made a diagram, And I have 2 hoses that I'm not sure where they need to go (blue). Based on the diagrams and stuff I can find, I think they just tie right into the intake? If someone has some experience with this, your advise is greatly appreciated.

The white and red hoses are original, unchanged, along with the PCV valve, I just am struggling to find where the blue hoses go.
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1889 Syncro Adventure Wagon 3.3 SVX

[WillSharp]

Ok I was just able to verify that the PCV diagram I posted above will indeed work. I found it by using part diagrams on a subaru parts site.
Parts Diagram:

The two hoses that go onto the rocker cover barbs are the ones I was trying to figure out.Tthey are just tied together and dumped right into the intake as I thought.

I will just pipe the two hoses directly into the intake, right before the turbo, because that is how they were stock.

Got the TGV delete kit in and installed that. I couldn't get the bearings out of the holes so I just epoxied the plugs into the bearing and then sealed up real good with some gasket maker.

Got a friend coming over to help me with some wiring. Hoping to get the tach wired and a few more CEL codes taken care of.
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1889 Syncro Adventure Wagon 3.3 SVX

[WillSharp]

Ok the latest is that I think I managed to trick the TGV cel codes my modifying the old sensors themselves. Currently the codes are gone but I still need to see if they come back. I will post what I did if it works.
My horrible power steering groan was a bad O-ring on the supply fitting on the pump.
I am working on wiring my tach, I had it recalibrate and equipped with 8k face by Small Cars, I just need to hook it up.
It is not idling super well, so I need to figure that out. My rear O2 sensor is not wired yet, so hopefully that helps.
Getting close! Pretty stoked.
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1889 Syncro Adventure Wagon 3.3 SVX

[WillSharp]

I wired my rear O2 sensor today. I got the plug at a junkyard and then made my own harness that goes to the ECU. My harness is still temporarily hooked up while I make some last minute changes etc. That should hopefully smooth out the idle.
Harness:

I filled up the AWIC system with 50/50 coolant and have it temporarily connected with the ignition. I want to put a voltage regulator on it, because it outputs way more than what I need. The fan for the AWIC heat exchanger I plan to wire on a thermostat in the intake, so it is only on when the air coming out of the IC is too warm.
Hoping I can begin driving her soon! I have been crazy busy with full time school and work so it makes progress slow. It is also quite snowy already where I live making the roads a bit sketch in a 2wd Westy with sh*t tires.
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1889 Syncro Adventure Wagon 3.3 SVX

[WillSharp]

After wiring up that rear O2 sensor my idle is perfect! Thats all it needed. I got my alternator working, the tach works, and guess what? Its overheating! I opened up the return line on the turbo to take my intake off a few weeks ago when I did the TGV delete and must have let some air in. I just need to break the Libby Bong back out and purge her. Very frustrating. I just orded an air intake temp gauge (post turbo) that I will also mount on my dash. I want to keep an eye on that. I may end up just wiring a switch on my dash that I can manually toggle the AWIC heat exchanger fan if the air is too hot. TBD.

Shot a quick clip of the idle. This is right after start up, so the idle is high (1200rpm), but sounds good.

Link

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1889 Syncro Adventure Wagon 3.3 SVX

[WillSharp]

Got her bled and running properly.
Took her for an 8mile drive of a few laps out of my neighborhood! Running well and she's powerful! Even though my boost controller is pretty wide open, she spools a lot. Will need to look at it.
Something was getting a bit hot and making a bad smell. It might be the sh*t header paint I used still burning off.
Overall, she maintained good Oil pressure, water temp, and ran like a champ! More small trips to come!
Video of her roar:

Link

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1889 Syncro Adventure Wagon 3.3 SVX

[Jake de Villiers]

Nice going, Will!!
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'84 Vanagon GL 1.9 WBX
'86 Westy Weekender Poptop/2.5 Subaru/5 Speed Posi/Audi Front Brakes/16 x 7 Mercedes Wheels - answers to 'Dixie'
@jakedevilliersmusic1
http://sites.google.com/site/subyjake/mydixiedarlin%27
www.crescentbeachguitar.com
www.thebassspa.com

[wesitarz]

It does look and sound good. Interesting exhaust set up.Are there pics somewhere that I missed. I had two gauges set up on top of the instrument cluster,but I found it was too distracting while driving and all the wires were a PITA when going in and out of the dash for various things.

[WillSharp]

[WillSharp]

The latest has been wiring a air intake temp gauge. I decided, that given my intercooler setup is not stock (likely much more than adequate) I want to keep an eye on the temp. I picked up a gauge and then decided to use existing wires running from the black wire box in the bay up to the dash. Looking at the wire diagrams, the coolant gauge wire (red/yellow) was the best option because it had no other ties.

I did not care about cutting the old coolant gauge wire, because I have a dash mounted gauge that is much more accurate and tells you actual numbers. The red/yellow wire terminates in one of the barrel connectors in the black box, and then can be located and traced off the plug for the instrument panel. The red highlight in the photo is where 12v comes in I think, so I cut that to disable it. I used a spool of wire running from the barrel connector to the front to verify the wire using resistance.
Gauge hooked up and works well. Ill post a pic of it mounted on the dash.
Just got my intake temp switch that will control the AWIC fan.

It switches at 110ºF so it should be perfect for keeping the air cool.
Still working on final little stuff but the bulk of it is done!
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1889 Syncro Adventure Wagon 3.3 SVX

[WillSharp]

Thought I'd post up the latest. It has been like 5º and very snowy this past week and a half so I haven't been driving it much.

I was perplexed for a while on the best way to route my fuel lines through the firewall in a way that is safe and and not going to possible break or wear through the hoses. I had some little rubber grommets in place, but I was worried that if the grommet slipped out, the metal could cut through the hose. I just decided to use the electrical cord firewall clamps (IDK what their called) but they seem much better than the grommet.

I just lightly clamped them down so that they would just grip the hoses, but not constrict flow. I used some lock tight on the threads to meet the washer/nut from backing off.

The other thing I did was mount of my Intake Temp gauge.
The sensor I mounted into a silicone coupler using the insert system from FrozenBoost. (great product).

The pod I mounted right infront of the shifter

For the wires, I drilled a hidden hole on the far left side of the vent gap that routes the wire from the fuze box.

Also, I thought I would post my main gauge pod plugs.

I just stole some random subaru plug and used it for the electrical to the main gauge pod. The red line is my boost gauge vacuum. I put in a barb so that the gauge pod can be easily disconnected at anytime. They just route in the center section in-between the speedo and tach on the instrument cluster.
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1889 Syncro Adventure Wagon 3.3 SVX

[Abscate]

Will..I wouldn't use box clamps in a mobile application without significantly more chafe protection on that hose

Just put in properly sized grommets into holes, they don't walk out, you could even RTV them in place for extra security

My 3 cents, Canadian
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.ssS!

[Jake de Villiers]

[WillSharp]

[Jake de Villiers]

[WillSharp]

Got the fuel lines sorted, ended up using a hose grommet with a protective sheath around the fuel line itself.

Been driving it a bit, put about 60 mi on it. Its really snowy were I live, and I was waiting to get an alignment done (from all suspension work) before I put new tires on. Did the alignment, and got some Cooper Discoverer AT3 215,70/R16 put on it. Between the 1.5" Gowesty springs and the new tires, it raised it 3.5"! This helped the low exhaust header issue. I now have 9" of clearance from the ground to the lowest point of the header, which is decent, not great, but not much I can do without having another header fabbed up.

The new tires will allow for more driving! Still burning of some paint and stuff so its a little stinky and I have a few wiring bugs. But its driving well and holy sh*t it is fast!

Heres a pic of the new tires, just put them on tonight, looking good!

Got an Engel 12V fridge freezer for xmas, so I am about to redo my solar setup. Currently have 60W of solar, stripping it all out and doing 200W! got 150ah of batteries and just got a MPPT bluetooth charge controller. Ill post some pics of the setup when its done.
Going to buy a naturally aspirated subie tomorrow to begin rebuilding for my other 1990 westy. Swap should be much easier! haha
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1889 Syncro Adventure Wagon 3.3 SVX

[WillSharp]

Been test driving quite a bit lately. Driving it like a grandma until it all breaks in. MR. GAS, the shop that rebuilt my tranny recommended driving for about 20 min, letting it cool, then driving. I have been doing this by just running errands and going to the gym etc. Im trying to keep it from really boosting just to let it break in slowly, however its pretty hard on hills.

For the most part, things are running well. I am down to 11 codes, 9 of which are related to fuel tank etc. The 2 codes that I'm trying to fix are related to the VVT solenoids that change the cam timing.

Im pulling the banjo fittings off the turbo and the VVT solenoids today to poke out the filters (inside the banjos) that are notorious for killing turbos. If the filters get clogged, it starves the turbo of oil, and well, blows it up. I am a bit concerned about this because the engine had a blown turbo when I bought it. It wasn't until talking to a subaru friend that I became aware of this issue.
I belive in 07, Subaru took the filters out because so many peoples turbos were blowing up. Your better off to have a little debris in the oil go through your turbo, than to starve it of oil. Ill post some pics when Im done.

One of the main (little) problems Im having is an oil leak that continues to baffle me. It is dripping off the back of the RMW oil pan but I cannot find the source.
Ive ruled out turbo, valve cover, head gasket, and my oil lines that go to the remote filter/cooler.
Has anyone had issues with the oil pan seal w/ the block leaking? it doesn't seam like there would be any pressure there to cause it to leak but there is dripping from there. Its hard to determine if its just flowing across the oil pan seal from somewhere else or if that is actually leaking from there. I used Permatex Ultra Grey RTV when I put on the pan.
Thoughts?! Its leaking a hockey puck sized spot when parked for 14+ hrs after driving.
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1889 Syncro Adventure Wagon 3.3 SVX