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1968 Deluxe resurrection
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smalltime_hillbilly
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 19, 2017 12:34 pm    Post subject: Re: 1968 Deluxe resurrection Reply with quote

Good progress Cool
youll have to keep us updated on that parking brake cable mines shot Shocked
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 19, 2017 8:13 pm    Post subject: Re: 1968 Deluxe resurrection Reply with quote

smalltime_hillbilly wrote:
Good progress Cool
youll have to keep us updated on that parking brake cable mines shot Shocked

Thank you sir.
The brake cables are available through Wolfsburg West.
http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=211609701H

The correct master cylinder showed up today, so I removed the old one.
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& installed the new one.
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Now I just have to remember where I saw that schematic on how to wire the two three terminal switches.
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Gonzo1970
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 20, 2017 7:48 am    Post subject: Re: 1968 Deluxe resurrection Reply with quote

If that was sarcastic, ignore the link below.. Very Happy

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=440018

-Gonz
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Hayesmn67
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 20, 2017 9:54 am    Post subject: Re: 1968 Deluxe resurrection Reply with quote

What an eventful project!

What are you using to get to your original paint? The areas you've done so far look really good! I will definitely be following your progress!
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 20, 2017 10:09 am    Post subject: Re: 1968 Deluxe resurrection Reply with quote

Gonzo1970 wrote:
If that was sarcastic, ignore the link below.. Very Happy

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=440018

-Gonz

No sarcasm this time, thanks for the link!

@ Hayesmn67, just saturating a rag with acetone, holding it on the paint & then wiping it off.
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cdennisg Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 20, 2017 10:48 pm    Post subject: Re: 1968 Deluxe resurrection Reply with quote

Just found this thread. Looking good man!

Only thing I can think to mention is that rather than heating those brake cables to explosion level, why not just cut the rubber hose in half with a sharp blade before heating? Same result with no explosion hazard.

I do like explosions, though. Just like the anyone else. Wink
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 21, 2017 7:06 am    Post subject: Re: 1968 Deluxe resurrection Reply with quote

cdennisg wrote:
Just found this thread. Looking good man!

Only thing I can think to mention is that rather than heating those brake cables to explosion level, why not just cut the rubber hose in half with a sharp blade before heating? Same result with no explosion hazard.

I do like explosions, though. Just like the anyone else. Wink

Hey cdennisg, even when the hose is cut or disconnected, the pressure built up in the crimp connection causes the hose to pop. Heating it is the best way that I have found to get a stubborn flare nut to release without destroying it, the hose on the other hand....

Here's some more uncovering of the original paint.
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 22, 2017 2:49 pm    Post subject: Transmission Clutch cable bracket boss repair Reply with quote

While replacing/rejuvenating the drivers side axle & brake hose, I noticed some irregularities with the clutch cable.
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Even though the Bowden cable bracket looked original, it didn't have the correct alignment so I thought maybe the bracket was wrong so I grabbed another from a transmission I had laying around.
While removing the bracket from the Bus, I realized that the upper boss on the transmission had broken because the stud had been insufficiently threaded in.

There were only about 1/8" of threads remaining in the transmission so I drilled another 3/8" into the transmission with a 17/64" drill bit just a hair smaller than the existing threads.
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Then started my tap (8mmx1.25) in the existing threads & threaded it in until it bottomed out. (a bottoming tap is best for this application)
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And got a good 1/2" of threads in the hole.
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Then double nutted a longer stud & tightened it into the hole.
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Since the broken part of the boss was also split in half, I could slip it over the stud after the fact, I'll have to epoxy it in place to keep it as a spacer.
Then I bolted the "new" bracket over the top. Then removed the previous rig that someone did (probably 30-40 years ago) to take up some of the slack in the cable.
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Then I reinstalled the clutch cable & Bowden tube & squirted plenty of spray chain grease into the tube.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Gonzo1970
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 22, 2017 4:36 pm    Post subject: Re: 1968 Deluxe resurrection Reply with quote

I havent even looked at the clutch cable (nor any of the other cables) on my 70 Westfalia yet.. Shit, I don't even know what a Bowden Tube is yet.. Tackling some of the "more immediate" needs (like a leaking vent some idiot installed some time in the past to stop any further damage - have a thread here called "Help on the way" - has a little walk around video). Next up for me is the Brakes, which your pics also helped with (I dislike unexpected explosions) and steering. I think its more important to make sure it Stops and goes where I point it before making it actually Go.. But those throttle cable pics make a ton of sense, and now I know a little more as far as what to look for. Nice job! Thanks!

-Gonz
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 22, 2017 4:57 pm    Post subject: Re: 1968 Deluxe resurrection Reply with quote

Gonzo1970 wrote:
But those throttle cable pics make a ton of sense, and now I know a little more as far as what to look for.

-Gonz

Just so we're all n the same page, this was all to do with the clutch cable, not the throttle cable. Shocked

The Bowden tube is the sheath between the chassis & the transmission that the clutch cable goes through, it gives a flexible constant length so your clutch friction point doesn't change as the transmission raises & lowers as you accelerate & decelerate.

You can best see it in the 4th picture of my previous post, just under the knurled part of the handle of the tap, & the last picture shows where it's supposed to be.

Since I see that you're deep in the rust belt, inspect all of your brakes hard lines, while my bus is rusty from humidity, the hard lines are actually in decent shape. You might be better off replacing yours as opposed to trying to coax seized flare fittings loose.
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 12:37 pm    Post subject: Re: 1968 Deluxe resurrection Reply with quote

Since it's been raining all day, I decided to tear into the engine to see what I'm dealing with & was happy to not find a bunch of mouse nests or other rodent related items.
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I removed the engine tin & tried to scrape off the years of accumulated grime.
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I was pleasantly surprised by how little end play the engine had & found evidence that it had been rebuilt at some point.
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But since it sat for so long, especially since the carburetor was missing, I decided to pull the heads.
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I also slid #2 cylinder back to inspect the cam.
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Everything seemed good so I applied some sealant to the block & cylinder, reinstalled the right cylinder head with new pushrod tube seals & rocker shaft seals and torqued it back down.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 6:04 pm    Post subject: Re: 1968 Deluxe resurrection Reply with quote

^^^ Might be best to relax all of the head studs (both sides) and re-torque them in balance on each side, rather than just one side all at once.
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 6:29 am    Post subject: Re: 1968 Deluxe resurrection Reply with quote

Thanks cdennisg, I'll be sure to do that. Embarassed The torque sequence & final torque range are far less than the beasts that I usually work on, the typical water pumper is 40nm, 60nm, 90*, 90*.
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 7:31 am    Post subject: Re: 1968 Deluxe resurrection Reply with quote

Head bolt torque on air cooled VW's (as I understand it) is initially low because of the inherent stresses of thermal expansion when the engine has reached full operating temp. Yes it does seem odd to only put 18 lbs of torque on a cylinder head stud, especially after working on large V8's and such.
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 4:19 pm    Post subject: Re: 1968 Deluxe resurrection Reply with quote

cdennisg wrote:
Head bolt torque on air cooled VW's (as I understand it) is initially low because of the inherent stresses of thermal expansion when the engine has reached full operating temp. Yes it does seem odd to only put 18 lbs of torque on a cylinder head stud, especially after working on large V8's and such.

18 lbs? Both the Bentley & the idiots guide state 23 lbs for final torque but both of my books are old, is this a revision?
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 4:26 pm    Post subject: Re: 1968 Deluxe resurrection Reply with quote

I think it was 18 for the 8mm and 23 for the 10mm studs, but I would have to check
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 6:15 pm    Post subject: Re: 1968 Deluxe resurrection Reply with quote

[email protected] wrote:
I think it was 18 for the 8mm and 23 for the 10mm studs, but I would have to check

Yes please, thanks guys!
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 6:44 pm    Post subject: Re: 1968 Deluxe resurrection Reply with quote

[email protected] wrote:
I think it was 18 for the 8mm and 23 for the 10mm studs, but I would have to check


This is true. I have not set torque on a 10mm stud in at least 15 years, so the 18lb figure for 8mm studs is stuck in my head.

I just checked the Tom Wilson book.

8mm studs are 18 lb final torque.

10mm studs are 23 lb final.

10mm studs with case savers can go to 28lb final.

Make sure to use the correct torque pattern, too. And take the torque up in steps, switching from one head to the other to keep it all even. The horizontally opposed stature makes this critical.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 6:50 am    Post subject: Re: 1968 Deluxe resurrection Reply with quote

TDCTDI wrote:

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The bad thing about going down to original paint, you never really know what's underneath all the layers until you get to it. Hope you find a pretty straight and clean layer of metal! It looks like your goal is to get it roadworthy and drive it, is that about right?

I'm curious how deep you plan to go with it.. just from the few pics, it appears to be a pretty solid bus, with minimal typical rust fixes.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 9:22 am    Post subject: Re: 1968 Deluxe resurrection Reply with quote

scrivyscriv wrote:

It looks like your goal is to get it roadworthy and drive it, is that about right?

That's the plan, it's easier to chip away at its needs when you can occasionally enjoy it.

Only a few years ago, bay Busses in this condition would have been scrapped, especially when scrap value went up, now it's a rough-ish driver possibility.

As far as how far do I plan to take it, as far as I can until someone wants it more than I do. Laughing
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