Adjusting clutch pedal stop

[richierich]

Hi all. I can't get enough clutch pedal free play by adjusting at the wing nut at the trans end so I figured I should move my clutch pedal stop forward a little. I just cannot figure out how to do it. Here is my setup:

I undid the two bolts at the back and tried to move the stop towards the front of the car a little but it won't budge. Is the part that the clutch pedal pivots in separate to the stop? I can't see how the stop will slide forward if not. Anyone help? What am I doing wrong?

Rich

[Cusser]

[richierich]

Cussler - my wingnut is good and free. The issue is, if I try to set the pedal free play using the wing nut, the release bearing feels like it is hard against the pressure plate ring (the arm won't move much towards the front of the car) before the proper pedal free play amount is reached......if that makes sense??

Can anyone shed any light on this?? I am seriously stumped.

[richierich]

Nobody got anything huh?

[KTPhil]

I'm not sure you have a problem. The clutch pedal freeplay is not quite like the brake pedal freeplay.

The brake freeplay is an airgap between the pushrod tip and the master cylinder piston. There is no intervening hardware, so it's a "hard gap" and can easily be felt directly.

The clutch freeplay is not quite so clear. The goal is to set the gap between the throwout bearing and the pressure plate ring or fingers, which of course you can't observe directly. In between your foot and this gap are: the pedal assembly, cable hook, the cable, the Bowden tube, the bell housing lever, the TO bearing fork, and the TO bearing itself. There is play/hysteresis on all of these, and it adds up in a slightly inconsistent and soft-feeling way. There is no hard stop like with the brake adjustment. You push with your hand, and feel when the drag gets stiffer. It's not on/off, it's a point of increased force. I usually press it about halfway up the pedal arm, and push it quickly/gently/repeatedly and note where I stop on average. That's the "gap" or freeplay you are looking for.

It appears you don't have a stock pedal, and so the geometry can be different, including the hook inside the tunnel. This could change things, but I'd sooner expect you just have to loosen the cable more than you think. Worse scenarios are that your TO bearing fork is hosed up or loose inside the bell housing.

[richierich]

Phil - thanks for the reply and this is exactly what is confusing me. The TO bearing is new, HD clips, new Kennedy Stage 2 plate, new Daikin Super disc. The cable does need to be looser obviously because the bearing feels like it is hard against the plate but if I loosen the wingnut any more than it is now, I cannot get gears at all. It's really quite frustrating.

[Dale M.]

Actually part you are trying to adjust does not look like pedal stop to me but a support against thrust on pedal shaft....

You issues are probably somewhere in areas other have mentioned like worn hook on clutch shaft, stretching cable (cable too long?) improper angle on bouden tube.... Clutch free play should be about 1 to 1.5 inches as you depress pedal and clutch under power will start to slip and you will get full clutch disengagement with full pedal depression...

Dale
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All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ...

[vwbrewer]

That mount on the floor should be 2 pieces. The bottom piece is the stop and can be skid back and forth.
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1957 Oval Rag