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andreasschmieg Samba Member
Joined: March 10, 2004 Posts: 81 Location: Minneapolis, MN, USA
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Posted: Sun Apr 23, 2017 6:33 pm Post subject: Silly engine will not come out |
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OK, it will probably just fall out by itself next Saturday, but I thought I'd ask. I have a 1957 Oval with a 1960s E 1300 engine in it. The rear metal tin will not come off since the flathead screws will #@$@%#^!! not turn. All four engine bolts are loose. I am able to wiggle the engine back and forth, but not enough to get it out.
On a newer Beetle I would just cut the rear apron off, but not on an Oval. Are there any more civilized tricks? Should I just cut out the silly tin?
Thanks
Andy _________________ ~~~ Dont trust cars under 30! ~~~ |
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Bug-nut Samba Member
Joined: December 20, 2015 Posts: 485 Location: Knoxville, TN
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Posted: Sun Apr 23, 2017 6:39 pm Post subject: Re: Silly engine will not come out |
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Are you able to get to the screw heads and possibly drill them out? Or at least cut off the heads and then after everything is out perhaps you could take vise grips and get the shank of the screws out of the engine/tins? Just a thought... _________________ 1959 Fjord Blue Volkswagen Beetle
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6...highlight=
1962 Austin-Healey Sprite
Snort wrote: |
A 59 Beetle is just an Oval-Window car with aspirations of modernity. |
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wimkever Samba Member
Joined: July 16, 2004 Posts: 411 Location: Holland (the Netherlands)
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Posted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 8:34 am Post subject: Re: Silly engine will not come out |
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andreasschmieg wrote: |
The rear metal tin will not come off since the flathead screws will #@$@%#^!! not turn. Andy |
I know how hard it is and sometimes impossible to make those flathead srews turn. That's when using a normal screwdriver.
What I always do (and succesfully) is using something like this :
Good luck. _________________ a beetle is like a cocker spaniel, always funny but sometimes not listening |
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maskinmester Samba Member
Joined: March 06, 2016 Posts: 51 Location: Denmark
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Posted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 8:52 am Post subject: Re: Silly engine will not come out |
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Impact screwdriver - if the screws are supported in more than the tin.
Otherwise grind/mill the heads away with a pinol grinder and deal with the leftover piece of thread once the engine is out.
/René _________________ 1954 Beetle - running - Went to HO 17
1961 Beetle in the workshop
1960 Beetle waiting for repair
1956 Unimog 411
30 old farm tractors and stationary engines
1999 Golf - daily driver |
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57BLITZ Samba Member
Joined: June 12, 2012 Posts: 2385 Location: DEEK - U.S.A.
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Posted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 10:54 am Post subject: Re: Silly engine will not come out |
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Get those tin screws out by whatever means necessary so you are able to remove that rear tin.
You should try your best to avoid damaging that tin . . . it might have been modified to fit . . . if you can save it, you will not need to modify another piece later!
Another tip for ya . . . remove the exhaust system BEFORE ya try to pull the engine!
Otherwise, when you have the engine ALMOST out, those heat exchangers WILL hit the bottom of your stock firewall and cause you to say bad words! _________________ Jesucristo es mi Señor y Salvador! |
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h~moto Samba Member
Joined: November 19, 2008 Posts: 316 Location: Northern Virginia
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Posted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 1:56 pm Post subject: Re: Silly engine will not come out |
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Penetrating fluid on the screws. Vise grip on the screwdriver. A good trick is to first try to tighten the screw - it will often break it loose. |
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Rome Samba Member
Joined: June 02, 2004 Posts: 9602 Location: Pearl River, NY
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Posted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 4:09 pm Post subject: Re: Silly engine will not come out |
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1. Penetrating fluid
2. Propane torch applied to the screw head
3. Hit the screw head slot straight down with a screwdriver that has a steel shank going through to the handle end. Give the steel end a good bang with a hammer. This provides a "shock" through the screw threads.
All 3 of these will usually free up a rusty screw for me. If the screw starts to turn and then stops due to the screw cooling off, I'll grasp the head with a vise grip and keep loosening it, spraying penetrant as I go. Or as mentioned above, if the screw loosens slightly, spray penetrant and tighten it slightly. You're working the penetrant into the threads so that with the next turn to loosen, the screw should rotate slightly further. |
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Eric&Barb Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2004 Posts: 24670 Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
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Posted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 5:32 pm Post subject: Re: Silly engine will not come out |
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Vice-Grips on the screw head and start out wiggling the screw before just trying to undo. Apply oil as you work the screw in and out when it gets harder to undo more. _________________ In Stereo, Where Available! |
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3foldfolly Samba Member
Joined: March 08, 2009 Posts: 894 Location: Edwardsville, Il
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Posted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 9:02 pm Post subject: Re: Silly engine will not come out |
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Use some big vice grips (brand name) with some clean teeth. They'll either come out or break off. It's not the end of the world. |
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ZENVWDRIVER Samba Member
Joined: November 07, 2008 Posts: 3340 Location: N.E. Oklahoma
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Posted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 5:53 pm Post subject: Re: Silly engine will not come out |
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57BLITZ wrote: |
Get those tin screws out by whatever means necessary so you are able to remove that rear tin.
You should try your best to avoid damaging that tin . . . it might have been modified to fit . . . if you can save it, you will not need to modify another piece later!
Another tip for ya . . . remove the exhaust system BEFORE ya try to pull the engine!
Otherwise, when you have the engine ALMOST out, those heat exchangers WILL hit the bottom of your stock firewall and cause you to say bad words! |
... lotza' good advice here. And this additional advice is a good one... remove the heater boxes before removing the engine... On all engines, other than 25 or 36 horse, the heater box is too tall and many have to cut the firewall to get the engine in... check your fire wall, first... if not cut already, now you know what to do... your problem might very well be the heater boxes hitting the fire wall.
Since I have no heat, I'd try the best lubricant on earth called In-Force and a vice grip tool... but great advice from others too.
Let us know what you did, please.
... try In-Force and you'll NEVER use anything else... not available in auto stores... I buy at a local shop @ $15 a can.
I think you'll get most of those little suckers out okay. When replacing them use some sort of anti-freeze paste, to avoid any re occurrence. _________________ 5/50, pastel green 11G - SOLD
8/50, gray 11A Beetle
6/52, pastel green 11C - SOLD
11/4/52, black Zwitter - SOLD to my little bro.
1954 Porsche, pre A, with VW 36 horse- SOLD
1/54, black 11C Beetle - TRADED
2/55 Iceland green Beetle, on a 1965 pan
3/55 113 Beetle, stratos silver
1955 Messerschmitt KR175 - SOLD, sadly
1960 single cab
1962 SO33, with SO 42 interior
9/63 Pacific blue, Ghia
'87 Toyota MR2
'02 WestFORDia E-150, GAVE TO OUR SON
All super-heroes, wear a MASK |
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