Help Customizing/Upgrading 74 SB 1600cc Autostick

[HenryJ53]

Relatively new to Beetles and would like to do some upgrades and minor modifications to The Bug.

1. Disk brake upgrade, this is fairly simple one

2. Twin Carb upgrade (Originally California Bug) know will have to get rid of the emissions stuff not sure what to do with the Autostick Vacuum valve. Can it be moved as in relocated up, down, to the front fire wall of engine area? Carb Is Solex 34 PICT 4 and engine is the AH style and does need a freshening up, or think PO rebuilt carb with the wrong kit or just not good at rebuilding carb.

3. Electric fan oil cooler and remote filter, does it help?

4. Lower with? Airbags? Struts? PO had a large rock in the front to bring it down, does not help for struts now need to be replaced, imagine that.

What working with

Any help, thoughts or insight would be greatly appreciated, tips, tricks, opinions.

[cletus_zuber]

1. Easy enough to install a good kit, don't cheap out.
2. Don't think this can be done with Autostick, need vacuum signals and such.
3. Remote full flow filter could be done I suppose, drill and tap the case, electric fan? no.
4. How big was the rock?
_________________
1972 1302
HPMX 40's & 019

[sb001]

The dual carb thing is going to be tricky with the autostick control valve location. I have wondered before if, on later models with the diagnostic port (like yours), if that port can be removed and the control valve mounted on the firewall in its place instead. It would still be relatively close to its original location, you would have to run longer hoses to the vacuum tank under the fender and to the clutch servo. But I would think it would be out of the way of the left side carb and the linkage.

Full flow filter would be problematic due to the autostick ATF metal line running out of the dual stage oil pump.

[VERTED71]

[HenryJ53]

To answer question on how big the rock was, well it was heais a y enough to lower front end down top of tire was inside wheel well. I figure it weighed in around 100-150 pounfs took both me and my wife to lift it out and it was flat.

The picture was taken after removing th rock

Sb001 already removed diagnostic port, will keep you all updated as i go

First thing I am going to do is the carb upgrade, the carb is a 34PICT4 and is giving troubles, besides being California only and harder to find rebuild kit, new carb is about $200+ so only logical to spend few dollars more and get little more power

[rockerarm]

Hello and WELCOME.

As far as the disc brake kits go you will probably be spending approx. $300-$400. You need to decide if this is a worthy upgrade for you. It is true that a disc brake will stop quicker and more consistent than a drum brake set-up. If all you current need is brake shoes the set is approx. $20-$50. If your brake system is all worn out needing shoes, drums, wheel cylinders, and hoses you will easily have over $200.
I have used brake shoes relined to a different spec material for better stopping and that costs me approx. $50 per set.

Twin carbs can be installed onto an Auto Stick engine but you will need to relocate the two main Auto Stick components. The vacuum valve is easy. The oil tank will require some ingenuity as the filler neck is in the way. The small gain from the twin carbs may not be a worthy expenditure vs performance improvement.

Your car shouldn't need a cooler and fan. The addition of an oil filter set-up via the normal method will not work due to the Auto Stick oil pump. People have modified the engine case via welding bungs adjacent to the main oil gallery for this but is pricey.
An alternative is to utilize a by-pass oil filter set-up and have the oil returned into a small 1-1 1/2qt sump. This is an inexpensive improvement that could yield you up to 5-5 1/2qt capacity.

To lower the car look towards Topline Parts out here in SoCal. They are the experts here and can also supply you with the brake parts.

One word of caution here is that if you lower the car too much you may need to use a narrow front tire. With the disc brakes installed you may negate any improvements as the narrow tires will lock up during hard braking.

It looks as if you have a very nice car from the available pics. An idea that you can consider is if you would rather enjoy a 4 speed car vs the Auto-Stick is to convert. The later cars had the clutch tube already installed into the pan. Everything else is just changing parts. And is reversible if desired.
Hope this helps, Bill.

[HenryJ53]

Bill,
thank you for the advice, dont know much about bugs but I am learning quickly, seen the sump thing and really think that would be a better option seeing will not be changing the Autostick out (my wife does most of driving in bug and tried teaching her to drive a stick and repairing a manual transmission after it was shifted in reverse at 10 mph) I build street rods mainly (was injured in Marines and left leg dont work like it did before) so automatic transmission is alot of what deal with.

Ingenuity is something I do well, adapt and over come

[sb001]

I don't see why you would have to move or modify the ATF tank filler neck. Seems like it would be rearward enough and low enough where it would not be an issue. I guess maybe it could affect the linkage on that side..?

[rockerarm]

Hooah, Semper Fi. I guess your CO (commanding officer) will enjoy the '74 as you appear to have a grasp on keeping it running.
Thanks for your service. I've gotten hurt too and am getting pretty good treatment from the LA VA system. How's the VA over in your neck of the woods?
The 34-4 shouldn't give you any problems, I would think. I actually prefer them over its earlier 34-3. If you elect to locate an earlier carb try and look for one where the linkage on its right side is for the alternator clearance. Some people will bend the linkage and/or grind some clearance on the alt's housing.
I will recon my parts sources here and see if the 34-4 kit is easily available.
If you wish to go this route a respected fellow over in Washington state, I believe, offers a carb rebuild service. Tim is his name, VolksBitz.com is his business.
Hope this helps, Bill.

[HenryJ53]

Semper Fi to you as well, VA not to bad, still have to convince them (even though in thier records) that even though was peace time when I was injured in line of duty and is service connected they are responsible, anothmodifications ory for another time.

Have talked to Kaddie Shack in California and he said that kit is more for the 34-3 than the 34-4 and carburetor rebuild just might add to the problem. He also said tha dual carbs on the Autostick has been and a little modifications would have to be done but is do able. Keep up dated about the guy who rebuild them

[rockerarm]

Yeah, I know Jeff (Kaddie Shack) and am over there occasionally. I personally like and use the Kadrons. I believe for your Auto Stick the Kadron's physical size could limit its fitting on the right side. The Kadron is a damn big carb for a single barrel vs possible using one of the smaller carb set-up like the solex or ict. On the left side moving the vacuum valve is easy, with just hoses and wires.
Bill

[Zundfolge1432]

[vamram]

Pacific Customs sells a rebuild kit specifically for the 34 pict-4 w/the correct gaskets.

http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Scr...ange_high=
_________________
Eventually, "we are what we pretend to be.’”
Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!

'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!!

[HenryJ53]

This is why I asked, all opinions are welcomed as well as all the advice, this way get.more resources and get some experience of others.

Thank you all and keep the information coming!!

Also was told have to change out the valves if put dual carbs on as well as the heads, is this true or not?

[Lingwendil]

Stock size valves will be perfectly fine with dual carbs, even on slightly bigger engines they can work well. I would recommend sticking with the single carb for now, duals on an autostick have a bit steeper learning curve. Unless you are very familiar with both the autostick system and the particular carbs you want to use I would mess with those later. That having been said, I would think Weber ICT or Solex would be a good fit, kadrons are nice but physically pretty large for what they are, and the chokes of the other carbs are a great feature.

I have a 1776 engine with a 34Pict-3 in my 73 Super, with stock valve heads, it has less power than it did when I ran kadrons, but it is still a very strong setup.

Disc brake kits are going to run you about ~350 or so once you factor in the hoses, bearings, etc. Drums work just fine, but discs are wonderful on a commuter car or if you like to drive "spiritedly" around. They require less pedal effort and almost zero maintenance, and you will find with discs that even the rear drums require less adjustment too. I just did a disc kit for my Super from socal imports, and including shipping I spent $365 total buying the kit from them, and the stainless hoses from topline parts.
_________________
73 super beetle thread http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=649622 Back on the Road!

Modify your Kadrons for SVDA http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8115884#8115884

Cast iron VJU4BR8 SVDA reference thread- https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

Need replacement filters for original Kadron aircleaners? WIX #42087 is a perfect fit, as is Napa Gold #2087!

[HenryJ53]

Thank you for the information Lingwendil

This is a California emissions bug so that will have to be removed first, have seen the dual port single carb setups for around $250-350, and seeing that a 34Pict3 is going to cost me at least half of that figured would do the kit.
the heat riser tubs have been cut and welded (poorly) closed so will need to get a intake manifold with heat risers as well correct?

Maybe will just clean up the engine and add the single carb for now, sounds the best route so far and then this winter maybe add the second one.

Disk brakes is the going to be the way to go and lowering it

[volkenstein]

HenryJ53,
I'll weigh in here having seen a lot of what you wish to do over the years to an Auto-stick. The general consensus is around 90 hp at the flywheel is pretty much a maximum limit. This is because the A-S clutch plate (yes!) is only 180 mm in diameter.

Can you do dual carbs? Yes, time/money(pit$) & your imagination are your limitations. Cobey (Ghia forum) went feral and had a 2275 with dual kads (IIRC) fronting an A-S. It lasted a short while, but then fried the plate.
Your problem stems around the supply of the CV with a correctly timed vac signal from whatever carb you pick. Then "How to" feed the vac storage can etc. Another guy ran a Weber Progressive quite OK. But he did drill the carb to suit the A-S and was a whiz with electronick trickery.

So, 1776/1835/1916 - all running single barrel Solex's are more typical.
If you seriously want - talk to John at Aircooled.net - I have seen recently on the website you may be able to purchase a "flow improved" 34 Pict 3 or maybe he can hot-rod your -4.

I would not mess around with the A-S oil pump setup. There are three kinds of pumps. 1 for the small gallery 1500 SP blocks, 1 for the B Series 1600 SP large gallery (both are Flat Cam) blocks and lastly 1 for the 1600 DP. You can mod the drive tang (press) of a DP pump to suit a flat cam.

My own opinion is - pep up a stocker within sane limits or buy a Manual and chase that horsepower.


Regards
Volkenstein
_________________
71 RHD AS Super - "Klaus"...
Wisdom of youth, energy of old age...

[HenryJ53]

First off have to say love the Halloween tweety. Second thank you for ringing in, this is just goingto be a driver for my wife, last time drove it it kept dieing and only way got it home was to wedge the choke closed to make it even idle, need to read above and answered why not switching to a manual transmission .

[volkenstein]

HenryJ53,
Ah yes, I see it now (the post about keeping it A-S). I guess then your current path (braking first & other stuff) is a good way to get started.
Take a piccie of your engine bay & post up. Most of us A-S runners can spot things amiss readily enough.

A secondary web-site for you is www.vwar.org . sb001 can ship you the A-S manual section if you need a copy. Wiring is simplified for your year (compared to the earlies).

A check of all the A-S components functioning is unfortunately time consuming but necessary. Peeps who (for the most part) have corrected a PO's wrongs are happy with the way they run after it's all been sorted.

By the sound of it - a 1776 (thick wall machine in, or thin wall with head opening) and some remedial work would be the ticket.

Topline suspension can do a whole heap to a Superbug.

HTH
Volkenstein

PS..that avatar is from a Tweety & Sylvester cartoon I saw many, many moons ago.
_________________
71 RHD AS Super - "Klaus"...
Wisdom of youth, energy of old age...

[HenryJ53]

Had some Vinyl stickers made of Him, that is they way I identify the cars I have built, Put them on in a secret location only known to me and my wife. I built a 46 Chevy Long bed truck street rod that is now in Colorado. Built about 15 different types of Rod but never a bug until now. going to do some other things to it to that will make it unique and personalized to me but yet sellable if ever want to.


Thanks for the web site will have to read more, and from what read on some sounds like mine. going to make some stainless steel or aluminum hard lines to connect the servo, eliminate the extra long rubber line if possible.