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'76 914 2.0 engine build advice
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Shadd
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PostPosted: Tue May 02, 2017 7:19 pm    Post subject: '76 914 2.0 engine build advice Reply with quote

Hey everyone,
I'm currently rebuilding the engine on a 1976 914 2.0. It has the original detuned GC coded engine that came with California emissions D-jet, air pump and catalytic converter.

My goal is to keep the engine fairly original while doing any worthwhile upgrades in the process. I would like to keep the D-jet fuel injection if possible but I don't mind ditching the air pump and cat as I don't live in a state that has strict emissions laws.

Here is what I am thinking so far:
-Reconditioned Stock 2.0 heads (New valves, new guides, cut seats, CC matched chambers, spark plug inserts).
-Stock 71mm crankshaft w/Stock connecting rods.
-96mm P/C set from Aircooled.net (Cast Piston & Biral Cylinder Set, 96mm x 71mm) Has anyone used these? Are they any good for the $360 price?
-Raby 9590 Cam Kit.

I'm guessing that the original detuned california D-jet setup is going to be useless with the big bore pistons/upgraded cam profile, is this correct? If so can I retrofit the computer from a U.S. 1973 spec/ROW/euro spec computer with my system? How much of the cali emissions 75-76 F.I. components jive with the earlier systems? I'm already planning to buy a new D-jet wiring harness and I don't mind tuning a system to work properly (as close to "properly" as I can get with a 41 year old analog computer running an engine it wasn't designed to run)
Any advice is appreciated and thanks in advance!
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Tue May 02, 2017 10:26 pm    Post subject: Re: '76 914 2.0 engine build advice Reply with quote

I will give you a ddtailed answer in the am.....too late tonight. Ray
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Wed May 03, 2017 12:58 pm    Post subject: Re: '76 914 2.0 engine build advice Reply with quote

Shadd wrote:
Hey everyone,
I'm currently rebuilding the engine on a 1976 914 2.0. It has the original detuned GC coded engine that came with California emissions D-jet, air pump and catalytic converter.

My goal is to keep the engine fairly original while doing any worthwhile upgrades in the process. I would like to keep the D-jet fuel injection if possible but I don't mind ditching the air pump and cat as I don't live in a state that has strict emissions laws.

Here is what I am thinking so far:
-Reconditioned Stock 2.0 heads (New valves, new guides, cut seats, CC matched chambers, spark plug inserts).
-Stock 71mm crankshaft w/Stock connecting rods.
-96mm P/C set from Aircooled.net (Cast Piston & Biral Cylinder Set, 96mm x 71mm) Has anyone used these? Are they any good for the $360 price?
-Raby 9590 Cam Kit.

I'm guessing that the original detuned california D-jet setup is going to be useless with the big bore pistons/upgraded cam profile, is this correct? If so can I retrofit the computer from a U.S. 1973 spec/ROW/euro spec computer with my system? How much of the cali emissions 75-76 F.I. components jive with the earlier systems? I'm already planning to buy a new D-jet wiring harness and I don't mind tuning a system to work properly (as close to "properly" as I can get with a 41 year old analog computer running an engine it wasn't designed to run)
Any advice is appreciated and thanks in advance!



OK...some notes to start with:

1. Post the part number of your fuel injection ECU. I am not immediately aware that there is anything special about the ECU, injectors or "most" other parts for California emissions.

2. The California cars...and I will have to look in my books....the primary modifications were NOT to the fuel injection...but to the compression to start with (the GB had 8.0:1 and the GC cali version had 7.6:1).

Anyone who works on D-jet a lot...knows that it is very sensitive to compression and actually tunes very poorly at lower compression ratios.

For example...in the 1.7L in the VW 411/412 California version with 7.3:1 compression (identical down to the last part # of the EA and EB series in 914) made only 68 hp and the 49 states version of the 1.7L with 8.2:1 compression made 82 hp......just through compression and ignition timing alone. All else was the same...cam...exhaust...heads...valves....everything.

3. The 1.8's and 2.0s on the Cali version got the smog pump.

So for the moment.,...swap nothing. Post some pictures and post the ECU # and the distributor number.

OK.....so the cylinder heads....a refurb is NOT going to be simple or cheap. The proper 2.0 914 heads with three bolt intake are highly desirable due to combustion chamber size, shape and spark plug angle.

But...they were prone to overheating and cracking. At this age....virtually all of them have cracks around the spark plug holes and in the exhaust ports. Almost all of them require extensive welding repair and hand reshaping. Yours will need welding anyway....if they have teh smog pump holes/ports in them.

To weld on heads....all ferrous metal must be removed...the head heated after crack testing...all cracks are ground out then the heads go into an oven to be heated...then weld....then shape....then oven to re-anneal....then valve seats....then cylinder seat machining.

All 914 and type 4 heads need to have new valve seats on rebuild....especially if you are going to weld...because you need to remove them to do welding anyway.

You would be very lucky to escape for under $1,000 per head.

You can contact HAM Inc....and get much better product by buying brand new castings that have been CNC machined to be exact replicas for the 914 2.0 including plug angle.

More to come when you post some #s. Ray
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Bleyseng
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PostPosted: Wed May 03, 2017 1:27 pm    Post subject: Re: '76 914 2.0 engine build advice Reply with quote

Nothing wrong with using the 75-76 Djet FI but you will have to adjust the MPS after everything is running using a LM-2 setup. With that setup (using a Bursch exhaust and SSI early style HE's) you will be around 120hp. Yep, it will really scoot!
_________________
70 Ghia Black convert-9/69 build date-stock w/133k 1600 SP-barn find now with a rebuilt tranny and engine
77 Westy 2.0L w/Ljet, Camper Special engine-95hp and with LSD!(sold)
76 Porsche 914 2.1L L20c, 120hp Djet (sold)
87 Syncro Westy Titan Red 2.1L 2 knob 100k miles
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Wed May 03, 2017 1:53 pm    Post subject: Re: '76 914 2.0 engine build advice Reply with quote

Bleyseng wrote:
Nothing wrong with using the 75-76 Djet FI but you will have to adjust the MPS after everything is running using a LM-2 setup. With that setup (using a Bursch exhaust and SSI early style HE's) you will be around 120hp. Yep, it will really scoot!


Yes....unless I am missing something.....which is possible......the "detuning"......of the engine was done with the compression and the distributor. The only diffdrences in the actual injection system that I can find is that the MPS was adjusted differently. Ray
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Bleyseng
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PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2017 8:36 am    Post subject: Re: '76 914 2.0 engine build advice Reply with quote

The difference between a 73/74 2.0L and the 75/76 2.0L was the Heat exchangers which killed some HP. 73 MPS is a one year only deal while the 74/75/76 MPS is a 3 year one xxx xxx 043 number. Compression on all 2.0L's USA model is 7.6 to 1 using a 10cc dish vs the Euro version which was flat topped piston.

Everybody is running 96mm pistons but I don't know too many running Birals, they should work ok. The key is the Raby cam stuff and HAM heads plus a Bursch exhaust with SSI Heat exchangers. Get that engine to breath and get some HP. I used the HD valve springs to get more rpms (about 500 more) which is nice to run it up to 6000rpms without valve float.

Once it's running you have to adjust the MPS!!!!! to set the proper AFR!!!
_________________
70 Ghia Black convert-9/69 build date-stock w/133k 1600 SP-barn find now with a rebuilt tranny and engine
77 Westy 2.0L w/Ljet, Camper Special engine-95hp and with LSD!(sold)
76 Porsche 914 2.1L L20c, 120hp Djet (sold)
87 Syncro Westy Titan Red 2.1L 2 knob 100k miles
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2017 12:44 pm    Post subject: Re: '76 914 2.0 engine build advice Reply with quote

Bleyseng wrote:
The difference between a 73/74 2.0L and the 75/76 2.0L was the Heat exchangers which killed some HP. 73 MPS is a one year only deal while the 74/75/76 MPS is a 3 year one xxx xxx 043 number. Compression on all 2.0L's USA model is 7.6 to 1 using a 10cc dish vs the Euro version which was flat topped piston.

Everybody is running 96mm pistons but I don't know too many running Birals, they should work ok. The key is the Raby cam stuff and HAM heads plus a Bursch exhaust with SSI Heat exchangers. Get that engine to breath and get some HP. I used the HD valve springs to get more rpms (about 500 more) which is nice to run it up to 6000rpms without valve float.

Once it's running you have to adjust the MPS!!!!! to set the proper AFR!!!


Eaxactly.....and there is not actually anything unique about the 043 MPS......other than adjustment and flipping the diaphragm shim to the other side and then its the same part as the 039 (going off memory...I think its the 039.....which is the same as the E series in type 4 VW).

You will need to adjust whatever MPS your system has with these build mods. So as long as its the same MPS chassis and spring....ot can be adjusted to work no matter the part #. Ray
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Bleyseng
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PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2017 8:28 pm    Post subject: Re: '76 914 2.0 engine build advice Reply with quote

No, you need to start with a later one without the stop ring in the cover to have enough adjustment. Series 049,037 and 043...to have enough wide open throttle mix as the earlier style with the ring in the cover don't allow enough adjustment to get to 11 to one at 2500rpms wide open throttle as at 5000rpms you want to be at 13 to one. The MPS leans out as you get to the higher rpms so if you don't start rich by the time you get to 5000 rpms you can be 15/16 to one or worst and burn a hole in a piston.
_________________
70 Ghia Black convert-9/69 build date-stock w/133k 1600 SP-barn find now with a rebuilt tranny and engine
77 Westy 2.0L w/Ljet, Camper Special engine-95hp and with LSD!(sold)
76 Porsche 914 2.1L L20c, 120hp Djet (sold)
87 Syncro Westy Titan Red 2.1L 2 knob 100k miles
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2017 10:28 pm    Post subject: Re: '76 914 2.0 engine build advice Reply with quote

Bleyseng wrote:
No, you need to start with a later one without the stop ring in the cover to have enough adjustment. Series 049,037 and 043...to have enough wide open throttle mix as the earlier style with the ring in the cover don't allow enough adjustment to get to 11 to one at 2500rpms wide open throttle as at 5000rpms you want to be at 13 to one. The MPS leans out as you get to the higher rpms so if you don't start rich by the time you get to 5000 rpms you can be 15/16 to one or worst and burn a hole in a piston.


Yes....bad memory.....its the 049 variant I was thinking of.....not 039. Its actually the same exact part as the E type for type 4 1.7l.
It has different adjustment to outer full load stop, inner armature setting (main fuel mixture)....and the sensitivity ia bumped by fliiping the flat shim to the other side of the diaphragm. Ray
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[email protected]
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 25, 2017 8:00 am    Post subject: Re: '76 914 2.0 engine build advice Reply with quote

by all means KEEP the stock fuel injected camshaft. We have two 914s in here with original fuel injection that do not run right what so ever, and we have to tear the engines down. BOTH have aftermarket cams installed.
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