1966 7-seater/camper: engine dilemma and other fixes (pic heavy)

[wcfvw69]

[Zundfolge1432]

Very nice to look at an original engine and note the location and correct orientation of hardware and parts. Not everyone can appreciate that but I do thank you for sharing this😀

[mcdonaldneal]

I don't want to veer too far off topic but, the White clip is shown (57) in this diagram from Glutamodo. I'm not sure which year the diagram refers to though !
The part number mr lang gave for it doesn't throw up any search results.

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1978 marino yellow Bay Dormobile camper
1969 signal orange Karmann Ghia convertible
1976 martini olive Bay Dormobile camper

Stop dead photo links! Post photos to The Samba Gallery!

[wcfvw69]

[Eric&Barb]

[mr. lang]

Thank you guys for your comments and compliments!

[mr. lang]

In this picture you can see the white clip where it did rest before I did pull on the cables.
The bowden cable has some dust on top collected, that's why it is not as dark as the vertical part you can see in front of the carb.

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1966 Bus | 1969 Bug | 1976 Passat LX two-door | 1984 Golf 2 C (daily driver)
There are three kinds of people: those who can count and those who can't
Und läuft ...

[mcdonaldneal]

Ok. I think I've solved the mystery of the white clip. Someone on another thread linked to JerseyLookers archive of early bay parts lists.
The clip is part 28 in this from the '68 bus.
The description suggests it clips the air cleaner cable to the accelerator cable.

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1978 marino yellow Bay Dormobile camper
1969 signal orange Karmann Ghia convertible
1976 martini olive Bay Dormobile camper

Stop dead photo links! Post photos to The Samba Gallery!

[wcfvw69]

[mr. lang]

[easy e]

Since the Beetle part number appears in a bay bus parts list... it seems the clip is applicable to both models.

From what I've seen from poking around... 113-129-919 is valid for Beetle, Ghia & Bay Bus (+Caddy & some other more modern VW).
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aka: Evan
Spreadsheet for Bus RPM, based on gearing & tire size (Excel format)
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[Abscate]

Herr Lang

Ich denke, dass zwei verschiedene Autoren das Gleiche beschrieben haben

Tschuss!
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.ssS!

[mcdonaldneal]

[wcfvw69]

I emailed a VW parts manager from the early 70's who I bought the clip from to see if he recalls where it's placed..
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[mr. lang]

time for the latest update

VW exchange beetle H engine from 1967

the last few days I fiddled with the cb maxi pump 2 I recently ordered.

Removal of the engine tin went straight forward.
Just want to show the correct clamp for the 25mm hose and the hazet 798 tool for such clamps

pulled old pump

installed new pump housing after a lot of measurements were taken
The pump hole in the crank case did have 70.00mm, but after I did unscrew the 2 nuts next to the pump, the case opened up to 70.03mm where the pump with its 70.005mm did slide right in. (well i did unscrew 3 nuts, but the one for bearing #4 would not have been necessary)
I placed the gear into the pump and rotated the crank 2 times in 90° steps and did wiggle on the pump gear. No binding, rides right in the middle of the cam slot.
Tightened the nuts to 20Nm after pump did seat flush in the case.

test fitted pulley tin and removed material where it was necessary

I did a lot of measurements during the process and at the end I had to shorten the gear shaft at the drive dog by 0.9mm to give enough clearance for the shaft into the cam groove. Added a nice chamfer again after that.
The drive dog does now sit 6.9mm deep into the 7.7mm groove. With cam endplay (0.08mm) and pump endplay (0.05mm) I do not expect any problems now. Without the modifications the pump gear would stick 0.61mm out of the pump.
My guess is, that this has something to do with this engine being refurbished by VW and maybe they did mill the pump surface on the crank case during that process.

couldn't finish everything last night, so these are the parts I gonna finally install tonight

The "production" of the nuts and the milling of the filter mount was very stressful. I did use my brothers mill and lathe, getting instructions from him over the phone. I never used his tools before without his helping hand (me -> no mechanic). I actually made a few mistakes anyway.

I've also drained the oil. The last time I did change the oil was ~3600km ago.

The only other optional aftermarket part this engine does have (except the filter pump now) is this bugpack magnetic oil drain plug. I would call this normal wear of the parts.

Filter screen had no sludge this time, but did not look that clean anyway

Something is seriously disintegrating.

Any indication, what this could be?
It's not magnetic and has a silver color -> probably aluminum.
My guess it is the cam gear. I did the lift off test while putting this engine together with the cam staying in place (did not lift) and I was able to feel the backlash.

Interesting that there is absolutely no sludge this time.
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1966 Bus | 1969 Bug | 1976 Passat LX two-door | 1984 Golf 2 C (daily driver)
There are three kinds of people: those who can count and those who can't
Und läuft ...

[mr. lang]

[Eric&Barb]

[BarryL]

[mr. lang]

Camping trip was a full success !!!

Thank you to everybody for contributing to my thread and especially to Eric&Barb for the help with the filter pump.

Thanks Barry for the tip !

To keep my post in the time-line, pictures of the camping trip have to wait for now.

VW exchange beetle H engine from 1967

Before I did mount the pump I checked for the reason, I had to shorten the pump gear shaft.
The pump surface was milled a second time probably during the VW refurbish job.

The case is marked with a big P above the crank pulley which does indicate that the surfaces where the case halves met were milled flat too. This did reduce the distance of the pump studs too which was not a problem. I gave the special nuts in the filter arm enough space.

As you can see in this picture, the whole crank sits more to the left side of the engine (no optical illusion) which did gave me a lot of headaches during the rebuild of that engine (my first rebuild)

Mann oil filter was tightened down to 20Nm with hazet 2169

While the oil was drained, I also did measure the oil channels at the oil pressure valve, because I wanted to understand how this single valve with groove thing does work.
I made a few drawings, but will post that later in another post.

I also did a few steps of the normal service (not all of them):
Oil screen cleaned in gasoline
Oil filled to the max
Fresh 20W-20 oil for the cleaned air-cleaner
Checked fan belt
Checked valves. Two were out of range > 0.20mm and were corrected.
valve covers got new gaskets, because one was slightly bulked in.
Checked clutch end play.
Checked tire pressure (I run diagonal tires, so 2.0 in the front and 2.5 in the rear)

After that, I did put everything together and fired her up with my engine tester connected.

I checked oil pressure, while engine did warm up and then the whole rpm range, when engine did reach 75°C. This will also be captured in detail in a later post.

Then I checked dwell (48.1°), firing point (7.5°), idle (800 rpm) and CO (3.0) all spot on.

The next day we packed all the stuff in the bus and went for the trip.
Gas mileage was 10.8 liter per 100km or 21.8 miles per gallon. Travel speed was 90kph or 56mph and on the drive home sometimes 100kph or 62mph (keep in mind, that this engine is almost bone stock)

The engine and Bus did run great. Oil temperature was a tad higher because of the 26mm vs 21mm pump gear but still within a safe range. I measured oil temps during travel a few times with a digital meat thermometer in the dip stick hole and it was always in the 79°C to 81°C (174°F to 178°F) range
I could barely touch the dipstick compared to before I had the 26mm pump, but 178°F did not sound excessive high to me, so I kept the bus driving like a "normal" car and didn't baby her to the campground and back.
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1966 Bus | 1969 Bug | 1976 Passat LX two-door | 1984 Golf 2 C (daily driver)
There are three kinds of people: those who can count and those who can't
Und läuft ...

[Eric&Barb]

Good to hear it is working well!
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