New VC gasket, now a much bigger issue

[rockerarm]

[rockerarm]

Hi. I don't use any sealants on VC gaskets for the type 1 engine since I'm still able to buy quality gaskets. As a dealer mechanic I rarely had issues with genuine gaskets. Working at independents was a different story as lower quality gaskets would be provided and having to avoid a come-back would necessitate some sort of sealant. Boy, I hated scrapping off that shit material as I was having to "work with" low quality gaskets so my boss maximized his profit.

[KTPhil]

Two more thoughts...
1) Any chance you used a box cutter to open the gasket package, making two parallel cuts that you didn't realize went through to the gasket? Or maybe the seller did this originally?
2) Some VC covers have the ridge to keep the gasket from sagging at the top, some don't. Those without the bump really need some glue, at least at that point, to keep it from dropping down when the bale is tightened.

[Pruneman99]

I've been putting a very light coat of grease on mine for years. Not thick, just enough to discolor it I guess you can say. Only time I had a leak is when I used a valve cover out of the parts box that had a bent section I didn't notice. I've never seen one come out in chunks that didn't come out of an engine that was sitting for years. Are you sure that one wasn't damaged beforehand? It looks like it split lengthwise on the top and bottom section as well.

I don't like any kind of glue because it can be a pain to clean off, and damages the gaskets upon disassembly. Grease coated come off clean, and normally I reuse them unless they look "tired".

Sorry to see this happened to you. Hope you got it shut down before any major damage occurred.

[Zundfolge1432]

Man that really blows I'm sorry to hear that. I've seen an audible oil pressure warning, buzzer sounds at pressure loss this allows you to keep eyes on the road instead of watching a light. Water under the bridge I know. I started sticking the gasket to the cover using Gaskacinch Aka gorilla snot because it works and cleans up easy. My first thought was Mrs. Cusser driving with no oil and the engine lived several more years, these are tough little bastards and maybe you'll be ok. Refill pre oil and see what you've got. Also people used to weld tabs onto valve covers to keep the gasket from getting sucked in. Fel
Pro used to make a reusable gasket, I've seen them top quality.

[67rustavenger]

Ok Thanks for all of the input guy's.
Yes the gaskets were/are stored in the attic. I have a one car garage and space it tight.
The gaskets are sealed in the original plastic wrapping. and yes I cut the package open with a razor knife. No I did no even come near the gasket while cutting the package open. Just cut it near the edge and tore it open from there.
The VC and gasket posted by Bill is not mine. Mine are clean and metallic in appearance inside.

For the last couple of years I have not used any sealant on the VC gaskets. Just remove the old one and clean the gasket flange on the VC and install the new gasket dry. That's the way I'm gonna install the new one once I roll the car out of the garage tonight after I get the new screen and gaskets from the FLAPS. What I did while greasing the VC gasket was bend the gasket beyond tolerance likely fracturing it before the install. When I had the bail on the VC I wiggled it in the thought that it would center the gasket. It's likely here where it broke into the four pieces.

A new filter will be fitted and new 10-30w synthetic will be poured in and I'll look for static leaks before cranking to build pressure HT lead of the coil. Once I get pressure(hopefully) I'll fire it up and see where I stand.

Thanks for all of your concerns. I'll let you know what the outcome is.
_________________
I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[Pruneman99]

When I grease the gaskets, I lay them in the valve cover, do one side, then flip it over. The light grease actually makes it stick pretty well while I do the other side. When I fiddle them into place, they generally stay put real well.

I guess you have to stick to what works for you. I think everyone has their favorite technique for keeping the drips at Bay.

[67rustavenger]

Ok so I did all as described in my last post.

Fired it and it ran without any odd noises. But that was only for a minute. I have a bitchy neighbor that hates my hobby. I'll drive the car to work tomorrow and see what's up.

I do have VDO gauges and at 80-85mph on twisting mountain roads it's a bit difficult to scan gauges and not run off the road.

I did think about Mrs. cusser's engine. I seriously doubt she drives her engine at the top end of the RPM range in high gear on twisting mountain roads. But stranger things have happened.

Thanks all. Have a great night.
_________________
I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[calvinater]

Is this the same engine that caught on fire?
_________________
"Albatross"!

[KTPhil]

[fl59bug]

[rockerarm]

[Pruneman99]

Has anyone installed something like this?

http://www.starmarinedepot.com/sierra-warning-kit-...fgodiBULEw

After a quick search it seems like there was a bunch of similar things related to marine applications. A loud buzzer might alert the driver better than that tiny light.

Either modify something like this or come up with a circut in case of oil pressure loss while driving, but not during the starting sequence.

[Cusser]

[Zundfolge1432]

[67rustavenger]

A buzzer/horn is a good idea. And more than likely would have alerted me to the no pressure condition.

I'm torn between just driving it and possibly damaging it further. And tearing it down.
In my mind, I can't justify running it and damaging it further. When with care and careful inspection I may just need new bearings and rings to get back in fighting condition. The case was new at the build and has less than 20K on it.
Last time I checked. I had a weak #1 cylinder likely a exhaust valve issue. So this may have been a fortuitous moment.

I do have a spare engine I can throw in and keep driving. But it's an unknown build. It came with my other 67. It does start right up whenever I ask it to do so. But I have never driven this engine on the road. For sure it will be a BORING bone stock POS SP engine. But hey, I'll get better fuel mileage

I know it's my engine and ultimately my decision whether to go through it and bring it back to reliable condition. And sound of mind on my part.
_________________
I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[Zundfolge1432]

[Cusser]

[Zundfolge1432]

Cusser makes a very compelling argument.

[67rustavenger]

Thank you Jim.
The engine is just so much damn fun to drive when I have it running correctly.
It's been 20 years since I built an engine. So I'm a little rusty on the specifics. But I have a couple of manuals that will lead me correctly. Plus the support of folks like yourself.

Anterior motive is that I'm curious as to what the builder did to this engine to have it stand up to my abusive driving habits.

And yes there's that little voice in my head that will keep telling me it might fail at any time. It's not a very friendly voice.