82 Westfalia 1.6 NA Diesel to AHU TDI Swap/Build

[IronBenderII]

Hi all. I'm starting a thread to document the build up of my van. I bought this van a couple of years ago and we have used it as a daily driver, as an adventuremobile up to Oregon and down to Mexico and as a spare room for when our house fills up with guests. Eventually (soon?) my wife and I hope for an early retirement and drive it around the world. As such, I'll be doing my best to put the best components in that I can and do my best work.

I chose this van specifically because it was a diesel. Not because I'm a huge fan of crawling up hills at 20 mph, taking 4 hours longer to get across town or getting blown off the interstate but because I wanted to do an engine swap w/o having CARB all over me.

I had planned on waiting a while before doing the swap but as luck would have it, I killed the engine about a month ago when I backed into a drainage ditch (don't laugh at me - it was dark, raining, the road was narrow and I have a list of about 20 other excuses prepared as well. No really, stop laughing. Ha ha).

Special thanks to my Uncle Gary for coming to rescue us!

So what am I going to put into it? Well, after along debate and lots of help from folks I decided on an AHU mTDI (https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=676652&highlight=). Then after some additional thought I decided I didn't like having a non-over the shelf part (the mechanical pump) at the heart of my system and have decided to go with the full electronic TDI. I like the computer controlled EMS and I don't feel like the electronics will pose a reliability issue.

So here's the plan...
AHU TDI from Quality German Autoparts (http://www.qualitygermanautoparts.com)
Custom wiring harness from Fast Forward Automotive (http://www.fastforward.ca)
Rebuilt Super Transaxle from German Transaxle of America (www.germantransaxle.com)
Hopefully a lift and some tires from Go Westy (http://www.gowesty.com)


I'm still working through the details on what I'm going to do for exhaust (will probably do my own at some point), what kind of intercooler to do (thinking water/air), etc. Let's hope this build doesn't take as long or cost as much as my last build (http://www.broncofix.com/viewtopic.php?t=2745&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0) but hopefully it turns out as nice (http://www.fourwheeler.com/featuredvehicles/129_0609_1971_ford_bronco/index.html)

Thanks in advance to the community for all your help and advice - I'm going to need it!

Jack
_________________
FIRST Robotics Coach - #3859 (Wolfpack Robotics) http://www.twitter.com/wprobotics

'82 Diesel Westfalia with an 1Z TDI, Peloquin, GW 1.5" lift springs, 27" BFG ATs

'75 Bronco with 408 stroker, 40" MTRs, ARB/Dana 60 front/rear, all home built.

And my kid has a really cool baja bug

[IronBenderII]

The first step is getting the old engine out. It wasn't too hard to disconnect everything, I love how Volkswagen engineers their cars. Simple and reliable.

The hardest part was getting my van up high enough to be able to slide the engine out. Luckily I have these extra tall jack stands for my Bronco...

BTW, apparently the engine/transaxle combo weighs > 1000 lbs...

Here's my ground clearance to start. Should end up with about the same ground clearance...

One of my goals is to be able to work on the engine without my hands looking like this (wearing gloves doesn't count).

This is how the engine bay started...

Everything is getting cleaned with Zep purple cleaner. This will include the frame underneath the van. Looking good already!

More to come soon!!
_________________
FIRST Robotics Coach - #3859 (Wolfpack Robotics) http://www.twitter.com/wprobotics

'82 Diesel Westfalia with an 1Z TDI, Peloquin, GW 1.5" lift springs, 27" BFG ATs

'75 Bronco with 408 stroker, 40" MTRs, ARB/Dana 60 front/rear, all home built.

And my kid has a really cool baja bug

[ALIKA T3]

Sweet project
_________________
Silicone Steering Boots and 930 Cv boots for sale in the classifieds.
Syncro transmission upgrade parts in the Classifieds.
Subaru EJ22+UN1 5 speed transmission
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=416343
Syncro http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4...num+gadget

[dobryan]

If this comes out like the Bronco it will be great!
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Dave O
'87 Westy w/ 2002 Subaru EJ25 and Peloquin TBD

"To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive." Robert Louis Stevenson

MD>Canada>AK>WA>OR>CA>AZ>UT>WY>SD
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620646

Building a bus for travel in Europe (euroBus)
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=695371

The Western Syncro build
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=746794

[the_last1]

I will be watching this with excitement. I have the exact plan for my syncro doka 1.6td! can't wait mucho details please.

_________________
1991 Multivan
1990 Syncro Doka
The shallow end of the pool..is where the turds float

[IronBenderII]

So I was looking at my radiator lines that run to the front of the van and they've got some gunk built up inside them. I think it makes sense to replace them while I have the van apart (scope cree begins?). I have a tubing bender, I was considering making my own lines out of some 1.5" mild steel (probably some .095 HREW). I searched around and I didn't see anybody else doing this (Lots of pissing matches about SS causing aluminum corrosion but that's about it).

Any thoughts on this? I know mild steel will rust but I can put a nice paint job on them to hinder that. Any other concerns?
_________________
FIRST Robotics Coach - #3859 (Wolfpack Robotics) http://www.twitter.com/wprobotics

'82 Diesel Westfalia with an 1Z TDI, Peloquin, GW 1.5" lift springs, 27" BFG ATs

'75 Bronco with 408 stroker, 40" MTRs, ARB/Dana 60 front/rear, all home built.

And my kid has a really cool baja bug

[IronBenderII]

Update: Engine ordered from Quality German. Man, those people are nice to work with!

Does anybody have documentation on decoding the wiring harness so I can go through it/update it myself? My kids transaxle has died at the same time my other kids engine died in his truck. Family responsibilities are cutting into my budget .

Jack
_________________
FIRST Robotics Coach - #3859 (Wolfpack Robotics) http://www.twitter.com/wprobotics

'82 Diesel Westfalia with an 1Z TDI, Peloquin, GW 1.5" lift springs, 27" BFG ATs

'75 Bronco with 408 stroker, 40" MTRs, ARB/Dana 60 front/rear, all home built.

And my kid has a really cool baja bug

[HBB]

[the_last1]

coolant lines are much easier to stick with S.S. or aluminum. buy either. I wouldn't want to have to maintain panting and re-painting pipes.

http://www.rockymountainwesty.com/Vanagon_Replacement_Parts_Cooling_System_s/84.htm
_________________
1991 Multivan
1990 Syncro Doka
The shallow end of the pool..is where the turds float

[the_last1]

Curious what came with your engine from quality german? complete or long block? also what do you intend to do with the pump? sending out for rebuild?
_________________
1991 Multivan
1990 Syncro Doka
The shallow end of the pool..is where the turds float

[the_last1]

curious to know what people think of these TDI's vs quality german? in the market for a solid AHU


http://ericinironwood.com/?page_id=18
_________________
1991 Multivan
1990 Syncro Doka
The shallow end of the pool..is where the turds float

[IronBenderII]

[?Waldo?]

[AndyBees]

Subscribed....

Since you got all of the electrical stuff, just hang on to it, you might want to do an eTDI sometime in the future....
_________________
'84 Vanagon Tin-top, ALH TDI. 1989 Tin-top
1983 Air-cool, 225k miles, 180k miles mine. Seven trips to Alaska from 1986 thru 2003.

[IronBenderII]

[?Waldo?]

That's the beauty of the Land Rover injection pump running the VW TDI engine. It IS a Complete-off-the-shelf part that is less prone to failure than the eTDI engine management, far less effort to install, and will give better performance out-of-the-box than an eTDI to boot. I have an appreciation for the stock eTDIs (I own and maintain two of them) but doing extra labor to end up with a worse end product makes no sense to me. To each their own. Carry on. Lurk mode reactivated.

[IronBenderII]

[HBB]

There's not really a lot to the wiring harness for an AHU conversion, frankly. You are dealing with 10 or so sensors, 12v, a ground, and a half dozen connections between the TDI harness and the existing Vanagon harness, most of which simply relate to inputs for idiot lights on the dash (oil pressure, coolant, etc.). Can you be more specific regarding what information you need?

For example, previously you mentioned the VSS and clutch switch. You can just eliminate those out of the stock harness and call it good, the ECU does not need those inputs for engine management. Alternatively, things like the clutch and brake switches can be grounded out in a manner that leads the ECU to "think" that the clutch is always engaged and the brakes are never applied. There are also a variety of ways to integrate the VSS and clutch and brake switches in order to provide the inputs necessary for cruise control. What's your goal?

As for other connectors, are you anticipating that the stock harness will not be connected to the engine or something? It will be really obvious which connector goes to which engine sensor, there are several different shapes and configurations. Put the square 4 pin connector on whatever sensor has a square 4-pin plug. Stick the oval one with 10 pins on the plug that is the same shape and size. Repeat as necessary. There are one or two that might be interchangeable, but the wire colors will be different, so it will only take 2 seconds of looking at a wiring diagram to figure it out.

For the few connections that need to be made to the Vanagon harness, most of what you need is on the T-14 connector in the black junction box on the driver's side firewall. It's not complicated.

[AndyBees]

If it is your desire/intent to set-up the cruise control, the brake switch is extremely necessary. You can get by without the clutch switch for the starter function/purpose, but the other clutch switch needs to be installed for the cruise as well ................. point is, when you stomp the brake or hit the clutch pedal, the cruise function needs to be disengaged.

Note: needs to be confirmed, but based on the ALH, I assume there is a single brake switch with two functions (two circuits), one for the ECU and one for the brake lights. And, there should be two separate clutch switches.

Installing those switches requires a bit of fabrication at the pedals to mount the switches. Seems I did post photos of my switch set-ups. I used stiff/hard pieces of aluminum for the stops. It was fairly easy to bend and drill.

I'm not sure about the AHU ECU, but the ALH ECU monitors the brake lights. Thus, if both brake light bulbs blow, the GP light flashes and a CEL DTC is thrown....... doesn't affect engine function. In your case, if you do not install the Jetta/Golf cluster, a flashing GP light will not be of concern. But, with the OBD Port set-up, you will always see a DTC relating to the brake light function when you do a scan. I use one dim yellow light bulb mounted under the back seat for the ECU to monitor ..........keeps it happy.

I'll look at the schematics to see how/what the AHU ECU monitors relating to these items and post back.

EDIT: I agree, the ECU will not need to know speed for the engine to function properly. But, I do believe it will need to know speed for the cruise function. As I understand, there are some options for obtaining a signal for the purpose of speed. But, if the cruise function is not being considered, all of this is mute!

-You can use the existing circuit at the engine for the oil pressure light.

-The ECU will need to know the engine temp, thus the AHU engine temp circuit will need to be installed. The ECU will not know you are not using the other side of the temp sensor that goes to the Cluster (donor cluster).

-For the Vanagon engine temp idiot light/gauge to function properly, I'd drill and tap the coolant flange located on the end of the head for the OE temp sensor from the gasser engine to be installed there......
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'84 Vanagon Tin-top, ALH TDI. 1989 Tin-top
1983 Air-cool, 225k miles, 180k miles mine. Seven trips to Alaska from 1986 thru 2003.

[IronBenderII]

Thanks guys. I do intend to use cruise and I'm also told that the computer smooths things out when it knows if your vehicle is moving, idle, has the brakes on, etc.

I think hooking the harness up to the engine side is fairly straight forward, it's all the other areas that I'm concerned about. Ill pick up the engine next week, from there I'll have more specific questions about what is what. Thanks all!

Jack
_________________
FIRST Robotics Coach - #3859 (Wolfpack Robotics) http://www.twitter.com/wprobotics

'82 Diesel Westfalia with an 1Z TDI, Peloquin, GW 1.5" lift springs, 27" BFG ATs

'75 Bronco with 408 stroker, 40" MTRs, ARB/Dana 60 front/rear, all home built.

And my kid has a really cool baja bug