What did I just do??

[sb001]

While waiting for parts to try to fix the front end shimmy on my 72 super, I decided to remove the carburetor to clean it. That done, I reinstalled the carb, put everything back together in the engine, then tried to fire the engine up to see if it idles any better.
When I tried to start the engine, the starter cranked for about 1/2 second, then just stopped, like something was binding up. I tried a few more times, same thing. I then went to the back of the car and tried rotating the engine by hand. When I did this, it started feeling like it was binding up at a certain point although I could still rotate it-- also when I reached this point I got a "fizzing" type sound, like something under pressure leaking, best way I can describe it. Eventually though the binding spot seemed to disappear, so I tried starting the engine again and it came alive, and idled just fine. Did not really hear any issues with the engine running.
However when I went back around to the back again, there were a couple of noticeable puddles of gasoline on the floor under the back of the car which greatly worries me- I have run this car several times already and nothing like that appeared before.
The ONLY thing I can think, is that I had dropped a torque converter bolt inside the bell housing when I was installing the engine a couple weeks ago, but it didn't seem to be causing a problem; however with the car's front end jacked up maybe it "repositioned" itself and jammed the torque converter until the cranks finally worked it loose?
But what did I do to cause the gas puddles?? And what was that "fizzling/ leaking" sound when I was rotating the crank?? I will say when I noticed the gas puddles, I felt around the fuel pump and it certainly felt like gas was leaking out around the pump-- but if I screwed up the pump how would the engine have been running OK?
HELP!

[slalombuggy]

Check for gas in your oil. IT sounds like you hydro-locked a cylinder with gas and when you cranked it over by hand it pushed the fuel past the rings. When you pulled the carb did you stick the fuel line in the intake to prevent it from dripping on the ground or something?

brad

[sb001]

[heimlich]

Where's the torque converter bolt now? Is it going to jump around in the housing when you drive it? I'd look into this if it can cause issues later.

[sb001]

That'a fucking great- it looks like the engine is toast. It tries to crank and immediately stops. If I keep at it it will eventually start and run, but it blows a bunch of gas out the back somewhere, puddles of gas on the floor.
What the F^&-- ALL I did was jack the front end up to work on it, and removed the carb to clean it. I have removed the carb dozens of times from my 69 and never had an issue like this. I did not do ANYTHING differently- what gives???? !!!!!

[sb001]

[heimlich]

[wet_bread]

Remove the plugs. Crank by hand.

Approach methodically.

[sb001]

Just read another thread covering the same issue:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=433189

[wet_bread]

Required reading topics:

Head pressure.
Volkswagen anti-percolation systems.
Gravity.

Edit: is there an echo in here???
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=674876&highlight=

[David_nc_72std]

Since this started when you rebuilt the carb, I'd seriously suspect the problem is coming from the carburetor. You might have gotten a bad float valve or the float could be sticking, or if you replaced the float maybe a leaking float. It wouldn't be the first time someone has gotten a bad part in a carb rebuild kit.

[ROCKOROD71]

[vamram]

Take a breath, don't throw your Zund-built engine under the bus...you're on the right track in your thread search.

You may remember my "hydrolock summer" thread from last year...I had a couple of different causes.

1. I believe the first was a bad needle valve. I changed out the fuel pump at one point but I really think I was just throwing parts at it out of frustration at that moment.
2. Clogged fuel evaporation system hard line causing pressure in the fuel line. This was the really weird killer one for me - I replaced all of the fumes evap system soft lines in the trunk and at either end of the hard line under the car on the way back to the charcoal canister. Once the temps got into the 90's consistently w/in a day or two of doing so, I had two hydrolock episodes w/the car on a flat surface after sitting for hours in the hot sun. Turns out the hard evap line in front of the front firewall was clogged w/years of gunked up gas tar or whatever it becomes over time. As a result, pressure in the tank was building enough to flood my intake.

I used an air compressor to find the clogged segment, cleared it out, problem solved. Haven't had a recurrence since, even w/the car parked on an incline.
_________________
Eventually, "we are what we pretend to be.’”
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'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
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[ROCKOROD71]

just remembered most generic carb rebuild kits come with 2 washers that go under the needle valve. On some carbs you use one, some the other, and some both. Read the instructions from the kit carefully and double check you have the correct spacing. Otherwise when the bowl fills the float isn't closing that valve all the way and gas continues flowing into the carb.
_________________
1971 STD BEETLE- DD-1st car, 1st love. keepin' it stock! 1600DP, Solex 34-3 Mexi Bosch SVDA Dist NOW w/POINTS
1977 WESTY "KrustyKamper" 2L FI

[sb001]

I actually kept the same needle valve in the carb, with the same washer (single .5 mm washer for 34 PICT 3.) It appeared to work just fine.
Again the engine ran absolutely fine before with the same carb, I did not do anything to the carb except clean it out and make sure the jets were clear- I did replace the intake gasket and lid gasket but that's it. The carb is not the issue, it's something else.

[sb001]

[ROCKOROD71]

how old is the fuel pump? If the carb was off the engine, and the front end was raised, then the only way you are getting hydro locked is if gas was flowing to the fuel pump and leaking through a torn diaphragm and absolutely FILLED the crankcase, seeping past the rings and filling the cylinders. If the fuel line coming off the pump was plugged with a golf tee then this is the only way for gas to have gotten into the case.
_________________
1971 STD BEETLE- DD-1st car, 1st love. keepin' it stock! 1600DP, Solex 34-3 Mexi Bosch SVDA Dist NOW w/POINTS
1977 WESTY "KrustyKamper" 2L FI

[sb001]

[Hatracks]

[Cusser]