1991 Multivan TDI build

[rmcd]

[rmcd]

[Multiman mv]

[GreggK]

Hey Nick,
What was the original starter that came with your engine? I've got three different wires coming to my starter post. Its hard to cover them all up witht he boot. One time I used that spray electrical tape on the exposed parts. It was a little messy but not too hard to get off if you needed to remove any wires.
I'm pretty sure you previously said your running the stock VW A/C in your van. If so, how do your hoses from the compressor connect to the stock hose location route. I'm trying to use the original pathway up to the condenser on my van. I just don't know if I can make the bends to connect it the way I'd like.

[Multiman mv]

[Multiman mv]

Here are some photos of the damage that someone caused on my van. Most of the damage is around the base of the rear wiper. There is also damage where the nuts on the rear tire carrier got pressed into the hatch. Luckily there was no damage to the rear tire carrier and only a slight scrape on the spare tire. I was pretty bummed out when I discovered the damage but there really isn’t much I can do about it other than shell out some more money and have it professionally repaired. As you can see by the bottom photo, the paint and clear coat are both faded and cracked, so it is a welcomed repair. Hopefully we’ll Get the van back in about a week.

[Multiman mv]

I wanted to say that originally I started this thread to possibly help anyone contemplating a FAS conversion or simply to help others with their particular conversion and modifications. I have a very limited scope of knowledge when it comes to wrenching on my van but I figured, documenting the process could possibly help someone in some way shape or form. I completely under estimated the amount of help and feedback that came back to me through this thread. I wanted to thank the many people who have offered many different suggestions and products that have helped me along the way. As many of you already know and have known for years, this is an amazing community of smart, passionate people who are completely willing to share their knowledge and experience and it has been hugely helpful to me and my project. So again, thank you all.

[Multiman mv]

I’ve been doing some reading on the subject of solar and in talking with some of the guys who do our solar installs on some of the houses we build and it’s becoming more apparent to me that many people are neglecting to put an in line fuse between the panel and controller. This becomes even more important when wiring multiple panels especially when wired in parallel. It’s also hugely important to size the fuse appropriately. It’s an easier task when mounting panels in series, just take the amp output of the panel and round up to the closet fuse rating. When wiring in parallel you basically add up the amp output of each panel, add 25% and then round up to the closest fuse size. Of course, a fuse between the controller and battery is also hugely important but this fuse location is rarely missed.

I know very little about solar so I encourage people to do their own research on the subject. My point is to make sure that your setups are safe. The energy that can be harvested by the sun is no joke and it has the potential to go south quickly if not properly installed. If you have any questions or doubts about the safety of your system, consult with a professional, someone who installs solar systems on a daily basis and make sure that your wiring, fuse locations, controller size etc are all up to snuff. I might add that a system that seemed safe during the winter months can all of a sudden become more volatile during the summer months or when driving your van down south to hotter climates where the output of your panel/s climb closer to maximum output. Periodically check your wiring and controller and make sure things are not heating up and keep an eye on your numbers at the controller. It’s a good practice not to disconnect your panels while under load or you can do damage to your panels or possibly your controller, especially if wired in parallel. I know the voltage output is low on most of these setups but I have seen a single 100 watt panel fry from being disconnected while under load. It’s voltage output cycled up and down rapidly and spiked close to 15 volts and never behaved properly again. It could have just been a poorly made panel but there is a reason why most manufacturers recommend against disconnecting hot panels. I know many of you have disconnected panels under load countless times with no ill effects but it is a good practice to cover your panels if you need to disconnect them for some reason. I read a thread recently, (I believe it was JudoJeff) where he lost a van to a fire that was ultimately caused by a solar system. I would hate to see this happen to anyone else.

Mc4 connector with in line fuse. Available in many different fuse sizes. Very easy to add a fuse between panel and controller.

[erste]

After reading this I ordered a mc4 inline fuse and today got it installed. In all the research I'd done, I've never seen any mention of that fuse.

My charge controller is also fused now. It wasn't before.

Thank you, very seriously, for that post.

[Multiman mv]

[Multiman mv]

I’m considering biting the bullet and buying a pair of recaros for my van. I have read the recaro thread and searched the subject many times. I am wondering about the difference between the model that has three sections in the seat opposed to the model that only has two sections. I’ve heard recaros are short in the seat section and from what I can remember after having sat in one many years ago (in a vanagon, Gowesty version LXF) the seat did feel a little short. I’m a little over 6 feet tall and want to make sure that I get the most comfortable seat I can. It’s a lot of money without being able to really test ride the seat. I think I’ll be fine with the short, two section version but would love to hear anyone’s opinion on the subject.

I hope it’s ok to repost this photo. Please let me know if the original poster has an issue and I will remove it. Photo shows two different versions of recaros.

[RoryGirl]

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1991 Double door pop top conversion

[jimf909]

[erste]

Here's a thread that shows the differences between westy and passenger van seats: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=401712

Might help give you a baseline if you can get some measurements off of the recaros you're interested in.

I do think that you'll be fine with the shorter cushion, especially given the upright driving position of the vanagon.

I put LSB recaros in mine (stock VW GLI seats known as "trophy recaros"). I had them in my mk2 golf vr6 and loved them. I'm 6'5" and they are great in the van. BUT...

They don't have armrests... Long story short, I put the stock seats back in. (for now)

Adapting armrests isn't easy on the LSs because the side bolsters have so much foam. Mine are still in a half disassembled state because I got discouraged. The LX recaros don't have this problem as Recaro offered / offers armrests as an option. Adjustable vanagon armrests can also be retrofit fairly easily on LX recaros.

Can't speak to the LXs, but my LSs are incredibly comfortable. Jumping over the larger thigh bolsters was never a problem. They recline all the way. This is a HUGE improvement over stock seats if you're tall. Plus if you have them on a swivel you can recline the seat, kick your feet up, and have a nice lounge chair. They also fold forward which is actually kind of useful.

I made my own brackets, the same that gowesty sells. The sliders get bolted to the seat and then to the van. This means that taking the seat in and out is now a pain in the ass. For me this became annoying because my fuse panel / solar stuff is under the driver's seat. Without a ball-end HEX key, it's almost impossible to remove them.

The cost is relative, but 3k is quite a bit of money for recaros that aren't power, don't have adjustable lumbar, not heated, no thigh extension, not the same fabric as the interior, etc.

Before dropping that much, you might consider finding the best LX recaros you can, installing them with the gowesty adapters, seeing how you like them, and going from there. That could be as cheap as $600 depending on how far you drive to get them. From there you can replace the covers (lots of aftermarket options for LX seats), add the vanagon armrests / seat heaters / lumbar / new foam / etc. It takes some work but you'll have something tailored to your needs. Obsessing about recaros is fun and working on them is a lot of fun. They're fantastic seats. There are also some guys on ebay out of russia or poland selling reupholstered recaros that look incredible... for way less that new.

Definitely find a race shop not too far and sit in them first though.

[Multiman mv]

Thank you all for the great replies. I’m going to think on this one for a while and definitely going to sit in some before spending that kind of money. I’m hoping to make it to transporter fest in October and I’m hoping there will be a van there with some recaros. I really want to check out the height factor in a van and how they sit in relation to the rest of the van. In the mean time I will try to find a dealer nearby or on route to one of our planned trips this season and really give them a test ride. It would be a crying shame to spend that kind of money and not end up liking them. I actually find the vanagon seats fairly comfortable but I do have a bad back (which is only slightly better than my shoulder, which is better than my knee.) I guess that’s what I get for living a life of physical labor. Any ways, arm rests are a must. The recaros rests look a little narrow but I imagine they do the trick. Adapting a vanagon arm rest is a great idea if I found the recaros to be uncomfortable. Thanks for that suggestion.

[elizer]

I was in the same boat. There are 3 guys on ebay right now germany/poland/thailand that sell a lot of them. You can add armrest options etc.

I ended up going with Eurovan seats. So far I really like them. I got them for a killer deal and ended up recovering with sewfine to match the interior. It was about 1/3 the cost of the recaros. I haven't done extended rides in them yet (only 100-200 miles) and I enjoyed it.

[Multiman mv]

[elizer]

I had to a few things to make them fit. The seat rails aren't flat they have a lip that comes down on both sides that I had to cut and grind (took 10 minutes). Also the seat belt receiver bracket is tied into the seat that you have to cut off. Finally there is a steel pin that locks you into place when you use the slider that had to have a half centimeter cut off.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...;start=100

[Multiman mv]

I know these are two different animals all together but how do the town and country seats that small car has for sale compare to recaros? The t&c seats don’t look as supportive as the recaros but they look well made and mesh well with the interior. I’m wondering if anyone has experienced both in order to compare? I’m definitely leaning towards recaros eventually but I’m open to any suggestions.

[Zeitgeist 13]

When my wife's EV was in a collision we drove a rental Chrysler minivan with those seats. I found them to be unsupportive and the armrests to be uncomfortable and lacking adjustments. I don't understand the appeal.
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Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?