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skidmarksgarage.com Samba Member
Joined: May 17, 2006 Posts: 605 Location: Belleview (Not the nutt-house)
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Posted: Sun May 28, 2017 10:28 am Post subject: Alignment won't stay put |
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Align the car for 1/8 toe in then drive it 2 blocks and now has 1 1/2 toe out, I suspect the jam nut on the right inner tie rod but all is tight. It has done this twice now any ideas it's a 70 beetle ( Baja ) Thanks, Mark. _________________ http://skidmarksgarage.com/
Mark |
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David_nc_72std Samba Member
Joined: August 22, 2015 Posts: 841 Location: Winston-Salem, NC
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Posted: Sun May 28, 2017 12:36 pm Post subject: Re: Alignment won't stay put |
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skidmarksgarage.com wrote: |
Align the car for 1/8 toe in then drive it 2 blocks and now has 1 1/2 toe out, I suspect the jam nut on the right inner tie rod but all is tight. It has done this twice now any ideas it's a 70 beetle ( Baja ) Thanks, Mark. |
Are those measurements in inches? 1 5/8" shift in toe sounds impossible unless something is physically broken or unscrewing itself.
Please describe the process you are using to do the measurements. |
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wcfvw69 Samba Purist
Joined: June 10, 2004 Posts: 13389 Location: Arizona
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Posted: Sun May 28, 2017 7:58 pm Post subject: Re: Alignment won't stay put |
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Nothing worn out as far as tie rods, ball joints, etc? _________________ Contact me at [email protected]
Follow me on instagram @sparxwerksllc
Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
The Samba member since 2004.
**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
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**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche distributors or I can restore yours** |
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VW_Jimbo Samba Member
Joined: May 22, 2016 Posts: 9966 Location: Huntington Beach, CA
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Posted: Sun May 28, 2017 9:29 pm Post subject: Re: Alignment won't stay put |
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I am guessing you are using a tape measure on a groove in the tire threads. That is really hard to do with any precision or reliability. A better method is to take a lenght of black pipe. Weld a piece of flat steel 12 inches long to each end of the pipe, so that it looks like a "U". Fabricate so that there is an inch of play between the tires. Then slide that "U" under the car and rotate it up, so that the pipe is on the ground and each of the steel bar is next to the inside of each tire. Slide the bar towards one tire and rest it against it. It will stay there, if you balance it against the tire. Now on the other front tire, get down there and measure the distance between the tire and the steel upright. Do this for front and back of the tire. Also, make certain the car is actually pointed straight.
You can get an idea of what straight is by driving down a straight street for a 1/2 mile or so. Take a piece of blue tape with you, and when you find the point where the car goes straight, mark the steering wheel by wrapping the top center point with tape.
After that get the car on a level surface and measure the toe with the gauge. You typically want a hair greater than an 1/8 of an inch.
Adjust the toe as needed and retest. After you have the measurement, you need to address the streeing wheel. Do not just pop the steering wheel off and turn it and rebolt to the shaft. That will diminish one side of the turning radius. You need to get the wheel back to a center point, in relation to the steering wheel. You can mark the tie rods with a dot of paint and count revolutions at the one side and then transfer that over to the other side going in the opposite direction. Thus a ying for yang. You will eventually get close to center. When you do recheck the toe and call it good!
Note: BEFORE adjusting anything, be 100 percent certain there are no worn out suspension parts, as this will all be in vain!
An even easier method is to repair everything you find faulty with the steering components and suspension and go get an alignment at a reputable shop. They can do the alignment quicker, better and set the back toe and thrust angle too! |
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