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Brian_e Samba Member
Joined: July 28, 2009 Posts: 3292 Location: Rapid City, SD
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Posted: Sat Feb 17, 2024 7:17 pm Post subject: Re: seat change |
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I only used the CB seats.
I cut the bores nice and smooth, close as I can get on size. Measure the hole, and then take a skim cut on each seat to get the exact .010” press I like. I heat the head to 350, and freeze the seats in the freezer.
I have a press tool I made that uses a guide pilot to keep it all aligned. I use an air hammer to run them in super quick and easy. I made a counterbore in the top end of the press tool to hold the tip of the air hammer driver.
I think using a press would take to long and be more clumsy. You gotta work quick with the heated head, and chilled seat.
I use .0100” press, and a full smear of high pressure lube. It seems like a lot, but I have had great luck with it. Clyde Berg also mentioned he has always used .0100. Your tiny little 36hp seats could probably be a bit less.
Using a regular style boring head and indicating every guide would work just fine. Just very slow, but if you aren’t doing it to pay the rent, then go for it.
Brian _________________ www.type-emotorsports.com |
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esde Samba Member
Joined: October 20, 2007 Posts: 5969 Location: central rust belt
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Posted: Sat Feb 17, 2024 5:58 pm Post subject: Re: seat change |
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modok wrote: |
I could probably do the job with whatever tools you already have.
I think you have a lathe and a mill with a nice boring head, right?
So all we need is make an indicator to get the boring head lined up with the guide, and make tool bits of different angles to put in the boring head.
3000$ worth of tools lets you do jobs much faster, and speed costs money, and speed also makes money.
But you can also watch people in india doing this work with a scrap drill press and self made tooling and making it work, possibly very well.
But you know, this thread reminds me of the old mystique when it comes to seats.
With press fit parts you can get all kinds of different results depending on the materials and surface finishes and techniques and the dimensions of the parts.
It's really more about just doing what works, but in order to keep track of what works, you need to understand the materials and dimensions you are working with.
You can find all kinds of advice about how much press fit, but using the same press fit dimension regardless of the material and thickness and diameter of the seat is a load of baloney and is completely useless information but at the same time they don't know any better.
Just basic common sense about a seat ring, the thinner it is and the softer it is, and the less dense it is, the more easily it will squeeze into the hole.
So it's all right, and all wrong at the same time, and the same with how to fit them, and the same with how to machine them.
if you have a thinwall powered metal seat then there would be no real point of shrinking it with dry ice, because you can just slam it in with two or three hits with a hammer. It will squeeze into the hole and the material has natural porosity and lubricity.
But if you had a stout seat made of a very dense and hard material and with a very smooth surface finish then it would be a good idea to freeze it, because that thing is not going to want to go in the hole any other way. it's not going to squeeze smaller much, it's not going to yield, and no lubricant is going to stick to a glass smooth surface. |
All great advice, and you know I appreciate the input.
I do have some machines, and have been messing around w the scrap heads to see what works and what doesn't. I can definitely use the valve
guide to center the boring head, and I just ordered some new tooling for that.
That said, the boring head does seem like the hard way to do the job, with a ton more setup, but it's what I have. I've been reading and watching videos to see how all the other tooling options work. Man the new Serdi machines make everything else look like caveman tools.
FWIW, the heads I am working on are 36hp heads, and the task at hand is installing larger seats for 33mm intake valves. I have one set done by someone else, but they are marked for a customer and I would like a set for myself.
Right now I'm waiting on a set of the CB 32mm seats, as I was told they can be made to work with the 33mm valves. As these are relatively small and hard seats, it sounds like I would choose less press fit, what would you recommend I try first? First few tries are all in scrap heads, so no danger if I fail.
.008 press fit? Is there any danger in using a press to send them home? Herating the head and freezing the seat is not an issue and I intend to. _________________ modok wrote:
Bent cranks are silent but gather no moss. I mean, ah, something like that. |
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modok Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2009 Posts: 26787 Location: Colorado Springs
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Posted: Sat Feb 17, 2024 4:13 pm Post subject: Re: seat change |
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I could probably do the job with whatever tools you already have.
I think you have a lathe and a mill with a nice boring head, right?
So all we need is make an indicator to get the boring head lined up with the guide, and make tool bits of different angles to put in the boring head.
3000$ worth of tools lets you do jobs much faster, and speed costs money, and speed also makes money.
But you can also watch people in india doing this work with a scrap drill press and self made tooling and making it work, possibly very well.
But you know, this thread reminds me of the old mystique when it comes to seats.
With press fit parts you can get all kinds of different results depending on the materials and surface finishes and techniques and the dimensions of the parts.
It's really more about just doing what works, but in order to keep track of what works, you need to understand the materials and dimensions you are working with.
You can find all kinds of advice about how much press fit, but using the same press fit dimension regardless of the material and thickness and diameter of the seat is a load of baloney and is completely useless information but at the same time they don't know any better.
Just basic common sense about a seat ring, the thinner it is and the softer it is, and the less dense it is, the more easily it will squeeze into the hole.
So it's all right, and all wrong at the same time, and the same with how to fit them, and the same with how to machine them.
if you have a thinwall powered metal seat then there would be no real point of shrinking it with dry ice, because you can just slam it in with two or three hits with a hammer. It will squeeze into the hole and the material has natural porosity and lubricity.
But if you had a stout seat made of a very dense and hard material and with a very smooth surface finish then it would be a good idea to freeze it, because that thing is not going to want to go in the hole any other way. it's not going to squeeze smaller much, it's not going to yield, and no lubricant is going to stick to a glass smooth surface. |
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Brian_e Samba Member
Joined: July 28, 2009 Posts: 3292 Location: Rapid City, SD
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Posted: Sat Feb 17, 2024 12:37 pm Post subject: Re: seat change |
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It’s a big first step, but I would just get a Goodson or cylinder head supply ball driver setup if I were to do it all over again. They make counter bore cutters for those as well.
Brian _________________ www.type-emotorsports.com |
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esde Samba Member
Joined: October 20, 2007 Posts: 5969 Location: central rust belt
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Posted: Sat Feb 17, 2024 11:34 am Post subject: Re: seat change |
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Brian_e wrote: |
That is a counterbore cutter I made to work with the hex drive from the New 3 Angle driver I use. He also makes the same style now. I made mine years ago when he was just getting started. I will get a couple pics next time I am at the shop.
They are just standard 2 blade cutters, and I built a stand with an indicator to set them with. They work pretty slick, and I have a few of them preset to different seat diameters.
Brian |
Very cool, I'll have to look at the New 3A stuff again. I'm cautiously getting my feet wet with some head work, but doing it without refinancing the house is tough. It's a LOT of tooling.
I just popped the intake seats out of some junk heads to practice on, that was a learning process in itself, but now I know what to do. I'll see if I can get larger seats installed correctly in the junkers before risking some nice castings.. _________________ modok wrote:
Bent cranks are silent but gather no moss. I mean, ah, something like that. |
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Brian_e Samba Member
Joined: July 28, 2009 Posts: 3292 Location: Rapid City, SD
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Posted: Sat Feb 17, 2024 8:27 am Post subject: Re: seat change |
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That is a counterbore cutter I made to work with the hex drive from the New 3 Angle driver I use. He also makes the same style now. I made mine years ago when he was just getting started. I will get a couple pics next time I am at the shop.
They are just standard 2 blade cutters, and I built a stand with an indicator to set them with. They work pretty slick, and I have a few of them preset to different seat diameters.
Brian _________________ www.type-emotorsports.com |
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esde Samba Member
Joined: October 20, 2007 Posts: 5969 Location: central rust belt
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Posted: Fri Feb 16, 2024 9:57 pm Post subject: Re: seat change |
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Brian_e wrote: |
Here are some pics of what I did. Most likely not how Nick or Mark would do it, but at least I have pictures.
Brian |
Hey Brian, what piloted tool are you using for the seat counterbore in this picture? _________________ modok wrote:
Bent cranks are silent but gather no moss. I mean, ah, something like that. |
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nsracing Samba Member
Joined: November 16, 2003 Posts: 9473 Location: NOVA
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Posted: Wed Jun 21, 2017 11:54 pm Post subject: Re: seat change |
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Oh come on, Tucker. Are you saying your lathe work is finer than what I can grind on my Landis Cylindrical grinder?
They seats are ground for a reason -to be smooth. Because if they have feed grooves on them they gall the bore as you press them in. If you gall the bores, there goes the press fit that you were expecting to hold.
Also Brian, why are you turning the seats? Can't you measure the stick-out on the boring head? A dial-type boring head will do nicely for this type of work. And just set whatever press-fit you are requiring.
There is nothing like a ground surface. It is fine work that no lathe work can match. |
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mark tucker Samba Member
Joined: April 08, 2009 Posts: 23937 Location: SHALIMAR ,FLORIDA
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Posted: Wed Jun 21, 2017 7:22 pm Post subject: Re: seat change |
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if you use a good mandrill and good cutter and the finish is good there is not reazon at all why they wont be good. Ive gotten plenty of custom seats they were lathe cut, and all my berrillium seats are lathe cut., most ground seat Ive seen were crap and chattered because there mass produces spit out so effing fast. all the martin wells seats I got are lathe cut.my cp ,dellwest and more are all made on a lathe not ground.. I do however try to always use the smallest Id seat i can get with the od I can live with. that way the seat can be contoured corectly.not straight shit like factory or most aftermarket vw heads.
of corse after I do all the seat installing&cutting with the cutters I do use stones to finalize the seat finish.so..I gess mine are ground. |
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Brian_e Samba Member
Joined: July 28, 2009 Posts: 3292 Location: Rapid City, SD
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Posted: Wed Jun 21, 2017 6:01 am Post subject: Re: seat change |
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fastone wrote: |
Seats should be ground on OD.
Why are you turning them after the fact ?, am I missing something here. |
I am turning them because it's easier for me to make slight diameter adjustments on the lathe rather then the mill. It also gives me a little breathing room if I mess up. Replacing an overcut seat is much cheaper than replacing/repairing a head that gets cut .004" too large. I have a nice big lathe and a good madrel, so I can cut .005-.010" off the seats and get exactly the press fit I want.
Since we are on the subject, and you have experience, how much press fit did you use on your seats in the past? What did you use for lube if any when installing them?
I am trying to get all the opinions of different people who have done this in one location. They might not all be the same numbers, but at least it will be easy to compare numbers and techniques for people searching in the future.
Brian _________________ www.type-emotorsports.com |
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modok Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2009 Posts: 26787 Location: Colorado Springs
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Posted: Wed Jun 21, 2017 12:10 am Post subject: Re: seat change |
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Wow. |
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fastone Samba Member
Joined: August 16, 2010 Posts: 211 Location: So Cal
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Posted: Tue Jun 20, 2017 11:46 pm Post subject: Re: seat change |
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No but that's we used in the 80's when I was working here
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modok Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2009 Posts: 26787 Location: Colorado Springs
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Posted: Tue Jun 20, 2017 11:38 pm Post subject: Re: seat change |
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Ok cool. That makes sense. You make those yourself? never seen any for sale, but I understand they were used in the past. |
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fastone Samba Member
Joined: August 16, 2010 Posts: 211 Location: So Cal
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Posted: Tue Jun 20, 2017 11:33 pm Post subject: Re: seat change |
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Well you do want it round and a nice finish, do you turn cranks LOL
4130 |
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modok Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2009 Posts: 26787 Location: Colorado Springs
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Posted: Tue Jun 20, 2017 11:27 pm Post subject: Re: seat change |
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I don't see why.
Perhaps whoever told you that, was... dealing with a materiel that did not machine easily? mandrel too flexy? I can get great results on a crappy lathe with no mandrel. It's not hard. I'd tell you how if you want to know
Last edited by modok on Tue Jun 20, 2017 11:33 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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fastone Samba Member
Joined: August 16, 2010 Posts: 211 Location: So Cal
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Posted: Tue Jun 20, 2017 11:06 pm Post subject: Re: seat change |
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Seats should be ground on OD.
Why are you turning them after the fact ?, am I missing something here. |
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jpaull Samba Member
Joined: February 22, 2005 Posts: 3466 Location: Paradise, Ca
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Posted: Tue Jun 20, 2017 10:33 pm Post subject: Re: seat change |
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Looks good! Your a brave man lol. _________________ [email protected] MPH 1/4 Mile & 8.1 @ 83.7MPH in 1/8 Mile with Mild Type 1 VW Mag Case 2234cc commuter engine in stock weight bug w/only .491 total lift(CB2292 Cam), 42x37 heads, 48idf's, Street tires, Belt on, Mufflers, Pump gas, video of the run here: https://youtu.be/M3SPqMOKAOg
Transmission by MCMScott:
Rhino case, Klinkenberg 4.12, Superdiff, 002 mainshaft with 091 first idler. Weddle 1.48 Third & 1.14 Fourth. |
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Brian_e Samba Member
Joined: July 28, 2009 Posts: 3292 Location: Rapid City, SD
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Posted: Tue Jun 20, 2017 9:36 pm Post subject: Re: seat change |
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jpaull wrote: |
Your always doing the fun stuff!! Limo bus with 2-litre, flow bench fu n, and now installing valve seats |
Only when I get the time. Hoping to get caught up on these projects for other people so I can start working on my own junk!
I got all the seat bores done tonight. They went pretty good, and measured good. I will work on getting the seats turned down, hopefully get the seats pressed in and start porting the heads yet this week.
Here are some pics of what I did. Most likely not how Nick or Mark would do it, but at least I have pictures.
Good night.
Brian _________________ www.type-emotorsports.com |
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jpaull Samba Member
Joined: February 22, 2005 Posts: 3466 Location: Paradise, Ca
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Posted: Tue Jun 20, 2017 7:07 pm Post subject: Re: seat change |
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Your always doing the fun stuff!! Limo bus with 2-litre, flow bench fu n, and now installing valve seats _________________ [email protected] MPH 1/4 Mile & 8.1 @ 83.7MPH in 1/8 Mile with Mild Type 1 VW Mag Case 2234cc commuter engine in stock weight bug w/only .491 total lift(CB2292 Cam), 42x37 heads, 48idf's, Street tires, Belt on, Mufflers, Pump gas, video of the run here: https://youtu.be/M3SPqMOKAOg
Transmission by MCMScott:
Rhino case, Klinkenberg 4.12, Superdiff, 002 mainshaft with 091 first idler. Weddle 1.48 Third & 1.14 Fourth. |
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Brian_e Samba Member
Joined: July 28, 2009 Posts: 3292 Location: Rapid City, SD
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Posted: Tue Jun 20, 2017 6:03 pm Post subject: Re: seat change |
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Good deal.
I am cutting the bores now, then I will turn the seats for my press, and probably install the seats tomorrow.
Thanks for the guidance!
Brian _________________ www.type-emotorsports.com |
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