Unnamed 68 Panel Bus project

[Tcash]

If you have an 009

https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rl...p;oe=UTF-8

Lubing the Distributor

[KollynnBlackpaw]

Alright - it's just running like a jackhammer. I get a lot of hesitation trying to take off. There's power once I take off, it runs fine at speed, but so much hesitation. I'm now trying to not drive it for a minute. I've set the valves a couple times, both at 6, then at 4, back to 6, nothing helped (heard valve clearence can cause hesitation.)

AGGHH! Just work!
_________________
'71 Shantung Yellow AT/FI Squareback

[KollynnBlackpaw]

Alrighty, motor runs again on the new motor, ran rough at first, adjusted valves, points gap, new plugs, and a couple spruce ups and she runs quite a bit better. Still a little rough, needs tinkering, but well enough for a sec!

Very happy to have her back. Missed it a lot!

While I tinker with her - I've decided over this 5 day weekend I'll be removing the rest of the orange, or at least what I can! I want as much of it gone as I can get off.

Still trying to figure out getting the front spare off without cutting the bolts, as I don't really want to have em jangling around in the front, as I assume they would when cut off.

Other than that, money is going toward a motor for the Bug right now. It will get up and going, the body will get fixed, and hopefully I'll find a damn panel van door!
Every where I look, it's in Europe or UK! No panel van doors here in the US. The two I've seen won't ship, 50$ for one in NY or 500$ for a whole panel van in FL. I wish I was over there!

Edits: This was old and never submitted - oops! Been back about a week or two now. She's still a bit rough, but does have power again. Kinda sounds like a lawn mower (not from the exhaust, the actual motor) as is right now. Still way babying it.

I got the spare off, I decided screw it and just cut the bolts off. It looks TEN times better!

More and more blue is coming out, when I get some cash together I'll buy some Marina-Blau paint and have a friend redo the stripes the best we can trace.
_________________
'71 Shantung Yellow AT/FI Squareback

[KollynnBlackpaw]

Plugs didn't help - we're swapping top end and flywheel to another motor known to be good. Only an hour's job at tops, in fact it's already done, but I don't have a 36 for the flywheel right now and have to pick one up in the morning.

While I wait - what's the most common method of removing those front mounted spares? the bolts just spin and I can't get to the back of the nose - do you have to remove the air stuff?
_________________
'71 Shantung Yellow AT/FI Squareback

[Tcash]

Change the plugs.

[Spike0180]

[KollynnBlackpaw]

Can't check oil right now - no dipstick (waiting on the adapter, using a T3 block, have a block off on it right now) but dumping a little oil into a catch, it doesn't smell very gassy ad it's still an oily consistency, not thinned out much. There's definitely some gas in it but not much.

My bet is on not enough fuel at this point. At the same time, starter fluid doesn't do much for me. What's the next step?
_________________
'71 Shantung Yellow AT/FI Squareback

[TDCTDI]

A leaking fuel pump diaphragm or float valve will dump fuel into the block or cylinders & flood the engine making for a hard start issue. Check the oil level to see if it's higher than it should be as this is a sign of a ruptured fuel pump diaphragm.
_________________
Everybody born before 1975 has a story, good, bad, or indifferent, about a VW.


GOFUNDYOURSELF, quit asking everyone to do it for you!


An air cooled VW will make you a hoarder.


Do something, anything, to your project every day, and you will eventually complete it.

[KollynnBlackpaw]

[quote="Tcash"]

[Tcash]

[quote="KollynnBlackpaw"]Right - progress!
I got it started twice, but only just barely. It wouldn't idle and would slowly rev when given gas. Very low power. Strangely, I knocked the #2 plug off while moving the dizzy when it was on - and when it got more RPM when the wire was close to the cap but not quite in yet. Not sure what this signifies.
-That could mean your plugs are fouled. We used to do that on dirt bikes to clear a fouling plug.Change the plugs to eleminate them as being the problem...

It's an 009, which I only figured out today that the rotor position is often opposite on (or so I'm told.) When facing the #3 cylinder, that seems to be TDC, but when I checked, facing the #2 cylinder was almost positively the TDC - the piston was upward, the valves looked right, everything. I may be crazy and inexperienced, though, we'll find out tomorrow.
-Ok, finding tdc might not work for you. Keeping the wires in the correct firing order 1432. Play Ring Around The Roseis with the plug wires. Have some one crank it while you turn the dist...

Getting it running took cranking it, getting it to putter just a bit again, then letting go of the key and holding down the gas to get it to barely putter to life. If no gas held, no start.
-holding the gas pedal to the floor indicates a flooded engine. If the engine is in the bus and the carb needle and seat are leaking or the float is stuck. The gas tank can gravity drain past the carb and into the engine case. Pull the dip stick and smell the oil. If it smells like gas. Fix the carb and change the oil...

Good luck
Tcash

[KollynnBlackpaw]

Right - progress!
I got it started twice, but only just barely. It wouldn't idle and would slowly rev when given gas. Very low power. Strangely, I knocked the #2 plug off while moving the dizzy when it was on - and when it got more RPM when the wire was close to the cap but not quite in yet. Not sure what this signifies.

It's an 009, which I only figured out today that the rotor position is often opposite on (or so I'm told.) When facing the #3 cylinder, that seems to be TDC, but when I checked, facing the #2 cylinder was almost positively the TDC - the piston was upward, the valves looked right, everything. I may be crazy and inexperienced, though, we'll find out tomorrow.

Getting it running took cranking it, getting it to putter just a bit again, then letting go of the key and holding down the gas to get it to barely putter to life. If no gas held, no start.
_________________
'71 Shantung Yellow AT/FI Squareback

[Tcash]

Put the battery on a battery charger!

We're checking valves tomorrow - got dark and didn't have feeler gauges on me in the first place.
-If none r tight it should be alright to start. Click click...

Coming to conclusions were:
checking spark plugs for wetnes from fuel, checking down the carb for fuel,
-Give it a shot of starter fluid or pour a couple of tea spoons of gas down the carb's...

checking the points made spark when the key was on and crank hand turned,
-Ok?...

checked wires to dizzy cap and to all four plugs made spark when trying to start,
-What color was the spark. It needs to be blue yellow. Orange is too weak...

checked plug gaps,
-Ok, what is the plug number. clean the plugs, they can look ok but be fouled. Better yet for now replace them. Would not be the first time the plugs where fouled trying to start a fresh motor...

checked points gap (vaguely, again no feeler gauges, used the dizzy cap box as I've been told is around the right size),
-Ok, I used a matchbook cover for years...

checked wiring to coil/carb/black wire/dizzy was correct, made sure grounds look nice,
-Ignition wire on #15 +
Dizzy wire on #1 -
If coil has no markings

Also you need to have at least 9.5v on #15 + while the engine is cranking, or it won't start...

and checked timing via finger down spark plug hole and rotate + via the valves.
-Finger down #1 (right front) spark plug hole turning pulley clockwise and both valves closed on that cylinder. Timming mark on pulley lined up with case parting line...

made sure the dizzy wasn't somehow 180,
-If you have an 009 dizzy. Chances are it is 180* out.
Now you have the engine on TDC #1 comp stroke.
Watch this video again and static time the engine.l
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=787INwvir24
Now put the #1 spark plug wire in the hole in the dist. Cap that the rotor is pointing to.
As suggested triple check the firing order 1432...

Don't get hung up on where #1 is. #1 for your engine is where the rotor is pointing, when the engine is on #1 tdc comp. stroke.

Give it a shot of gas and fire it up.

Good luck
Tcash

[KollynnBlackpaw]

[Tcash]

You say timing is on, got spark, fuel, plug wires are on right. Did you go back over the valve adjustment? Change the plugs.
Would you mind explaining what steps you took to come to these conclusions.

The first thing I do when I have a cranks but won't start.
Cranks Won't Start Test

If everything else fails. Check cam timing. The cam may have been dropped in wrong, or bolted on wrong (might be possible with a slotted cam gear). You should be able to see the cam timing with the oil pump pulled.

Good Luck
Tcash

[KollynnBlackpaw]

That's just the thing - timing is on point, everything just should work. Everything is perfect but just doesn't work. My builder can't even figure it out - but says its happened once to him before and he needs to talk to the guy that taught him, who fixed it before and never told him how.

We'll see how it goes - if need be another engine build will have to happen.

I do have access to a 1641 Turbo now so... Wheelies?
_________________
'71 Shantung Yellow AT/FI Squareback

[Spike0180]

Make sure when youre at tdc, that the rotor points to #1. Then set up your 1-4-3-2. Sometimes you can't trust things.
_________________
Brutis Patches Izabich: 1970 VW Transporter - 1776cc DP
Current State: Projects never truly end...
Location: Grosse Pointe, Michigan
Other cars: 2003 F150, 2003 Jetta GLI vr6-6sp

Sambastic: adj; the quality of being nit picky, elitist, expecting everyone to do things the way they believe is best with no regard to situation, "sambastic"

[Tcash]

Finding TDC #1/ Installing Drive Gear and Dist.

How to static time the engine
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=787INwvir24

[KollynnBlackpaw]

Right - engine's back in, turns, gets fuel, gets air, gets spark - but it won't start. Firing order is good, the timing is weird but seems to be on point, and the plugs are new. Wiring is right. I can't figure it out for the life of me. For one her timing seems to be backward - when the #1 is TDC, and I've got the timing where it tells me to put it for that, it won't do much but maybe one big backfire every time I try to start it. Reversing the plugs though, so the order is ligned up with an opposite firing order, results in somewhat of a putter, like it's really trying to start but just won't.

Anyone got advice? I've been working on this for 6-7hrs this morning. Good thing work is understanding...
_________________
'71 Shantung Yellow AT/FI Squareback

[KollynnBlackpaw]

Got the engine dropped Friday and having it rebuilt by a friend. Also picking up a few runners this weekend - one with a Rajay turbo, 44 carb, and some other nice stuff that will probably be set aside for later use.

Right now I'm down to mom's truck for a car, but by the end of the week I'll have a much better engine!
_________________
'71 Shantung Yellow AT/FI Squareback

[Tcash]

Oil cooler seals T2
Good luck
Tcash