Help - no start after engine drop/re-install

[Abscate]

That's better, but you still have to make sure number 1 cylinder is at TDC for ignition and not at end of the exhaust stroke. The valves being loose ( closed) is the confirm for that.
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.ssS!

[Whaanga]

Good News! After correctly identifying TDC for #1 cylinder,
I got the dizzy lined up with spark plug wire #1, then used my light and static timed it for greater accuracy and it started right up.

Now, should I time it with a timing light or am I good to go?

Thanks for all your help. Much appreciated.

[Wildthings]

[Whaanga]

Thanks Wildthings. I'm going to do my homework on using a timing light. Do I need some kind of tachometer? I've watched a lot of videos on timing a 1600 upright engine - I imagine the concept is the same but do you use he timing scale on the fan shroud - is that correct?

[Wildthings]

[Whaanga]

Makes sense - thank you.

[Tcash]

Woo Hoo
Give the distributor a good lubing and set at 28* full advance.

[Abscate]

You don't need a tach but watch the timing as the revs are slowly brought up to confirm it smoothly advances with the revs. This confirms your centrifugal or mechanical advance is in good shape. Hoses off and plugged, important.
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.ssS!

[Whaanga]

Another quick update. I purchased a timing light today - did more home work, watched some YouTube videos and then went to work and timed the engine to 28* BTDC @ 3500 RPM's, the the dizzy hoses removed and plugged. It was a straight forward procedure and made sense.

The engine runs great and after all the work, it's running much better and is more responsive and seems to have a little more power.

Thanks again all your help and advise.

[Wildthings]

You need to seal off the alternate dipstick location next to you alternator so you don't suddenly start spewing oil all over the place. Fine a bolt that will fit down into the tube and silicone or JB Weld it in place.