sweet mod or...not? Generator stand

[slopo]

So, going through more parts from rebuilt motor purchase and found this gem. Seems to have a crimped piece there..not sure whats going on with that. Is this something those "trike" engine build guys do?

[slopo]

drain for the crankcase breather?

[rockerarm]

That "modification" was to the road draft tube. Kinda important for engines to vent via old school technology prior to closed up crankcases.
You can google road draft tube and see. Our later ('74 and newer) didn't have this feature.
Hope this helps, Bill.

[mark tucker]

and stay away from ones that have been blasted clean as the abrasive meida used cant be cleaned out but will fins it's way into your oil system where it will set up a restaurant and eat everything it possiably can.

[slopo]

So should I replace it or is it okay to run it like it is? I cant seem to find a replacement for the missing part.

[Cusser]

Cut off the crimped part, add on a rubber or metal tube, and use the "duckbill" seal that earlier engines use.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[calvinater]

Shouldnt he be able to connect the top nipple to the air filter and call it good?
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"Albatross"!

[Tim Donahoe]

If the crimped tube isn't leaking, I'd just leave it as is. But, the 1974 and later, stock rubber breather tube (the elbow), requires that the breather tube (the open metal tube on top of the oil filler) be turned upward at a particular angle, that is if you want to use the stock elbow on a paper-element stock air cleaner. Otherwise, you can leave it as is and use a length of hose.

Mark made a good point about abrasives getting into the interior of the oil filler. It might be a good idea to get some brake cleaner and squirt a bunch into the baffled area on the interior of the oil filler and see if anything comes out of the top breather tube when you turn it upside down to drain. If nothing appears except a few dried oil flakes, I'd use it.

Tim
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Let's do the Time Warp again!

Richard O'Brien

[slopo]

Thanks friends

[modok]

[glutamodo]

notes:

It stopped being a road "draft" tube during model year 1961. That was the first emissions modification that VW did, eliminating "open air venting" of the crankcase! They totally closed the bugger off for a couple of years, no "down pipe" at all. Of course, this led to a buildup of water condensation in the crankcase and that moisture has many times cause the oil filler to rust out...

When VW brought back the "down pipe" early in model year 1964 it was absolutely not for "draft tube" effect, it was ONLY to let moisture out, they still intended for crankcase fumes to be sucked back into the air cleaner and burned off by the engine.

ANYWAY, I mention this merely to say that many of those mid 61-to-early 64 oil fillers, as similar ones they used in model year 1974, were prone to rusting out. So with that pinched off, keep that in mind. It kind of sucks when the resulting rust hole forms/opens up in the middle of a road trip, like it did for me in my 62 many many years ago:

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Andy T.


IMAGE NOTE: It has been noted that Chrome based browsers may have issues in displaying my vast image library, which use non-secure links and are on an FTP server. Images should still be viewable if the link is clicked though.
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[Buggeee]

I love this article on the history of crankcase pressure in the internal combustion engine and how this system works to keep oil off our floor (we need all the help we can get - am I right?)

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crankcase_ventilation_system

Here is a picture of how the oil filler comes off the generator stand using one of a couple types of inexpensive special tools you can get get on Amazon or from Aircooled.net or wherever

Here's a thread that will motivate you to get a used stock one instead of an aftermarket one

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=680668

Happy Bugging
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(adopted out) 61 Turkis Pile https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=728764

[Glenn]

[slopo]

Awesome, thanks. I think Im going to throw a different one on.

[mark tucker]

they make a pretty aluminum one to go on there too, one angled and one straight.the angled is eazer to pour the oil in to. about $24. the straight is about $10.+ you need a aluminum cap the plastic ones are shite.. I do have one of those that you have around hear somewhere all painted, it was cleaned in a boiling tank the proper way. remember anything that go's in that, or is in that or can get in that... will make it's way to your oil, oil pump, bearings. roadside rest.

[Multi69s]

This is the best generator / alternator stand mod that you can do.

You slot out the mounting holes in the front of the stand. Then you double nut the rear studs and pull them out of the case. So when the stand is installed, it is held in place by the two stock case studs. However, you use bolts to secure the rear of the stand.

In a perfect world this mod means nothing. However, if a generator or alternator goes bad, it is a major time/ headache saver. No dropping the engine, removing the deck lid, undoing the thermostat mechanism, or the dreaded 36mm socket in the back.

Just loosen up the fan shroud, Remove the 4 backing bolts, take off the strap, remove the two rear bolts and loosen the front nuts, and the stand is out. Then just some wiggling, and the gen / alt assembly complete with fan is out.

I do this mod on all engine that I build, on and off road. Never had a stand break or even leak. For about 15 minutes of time with a hack saw and file, this is one of the best mods you can do.
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