Thoughts on 2058cc motor with 80mm crank now 2127cc build thread

[Pruneman99]

For an engine of that caliber I would send out the rods to get balanced end for end, then total weight. I've seen ppl rig up a roller skate wheel, hangers, etc but I doubt any home job would be as good as a machinist with the real machines.

For a stock build, total weight would be OK IMO but I'm sure I'll get flamed for that statement.

[pondervwmike]

Yea I am going to bring the rods, pistons etc. to my guy. Thanks Pruneman99!
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1967 Cal Look Beetle Street Car in re-restoration,customization. Mom and Dad bought it in 1983 when I was 4.
2010 VW Tiguan
2000 BMW 528i
1997 Jeep Cherokee
2127cc build thread https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=681556&highlight=

[pondervwmike]

Saving up some cash to get my rotating assembly balanced. Got some micrometers for Christmas and measured all my oil clearances. Everything seems well. The main bearings were .0028", .0023", .0034" and .0029". The Rod bearings all had .0018" of clearance. All rod journals were at 2.1650" and the three main journals were 2.1645". The 4th main I dont remember but it was right in spec. Also got an Empi deep sump. Some pics:

_________________
1967 Cal Look Beetle Street Car in re-restoration,customization. Mom and Dad bought it in 1983 when I was 4.
2010 VW Tiguan
2000 BMW 528i
1997 Jeep Cherokee
2127cc build thread https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=681556&highlight=

[MConstable]

Check the flatness of that sump to the case, my Empi sump rocked back and forth bad enough that I don’t trust it, I’m scrapping it and getting a Berg sump

[Danwvw]

[fivelugshortaxle]

[modok]

I have noted the size of the piston skirts AND cylinder have up to .002" variance, so, depending on your luck the skirt clearance could be anything between zero and .004"
With good luck they will be between .002 and .003"


I have been told they will check and correct this for an additional charge.

[Pruneman99]

[pondervwmike]

[motomwo]

Your piston to cylinder clearance will also depend on where on the piston skirt you measure the piston diameter. Also measure the cylinder bore at the top, middle and near the bottom to determine if or how much taper there is.

Marty
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1961 Bug, 2276 cb wedge ports 44x37 11.1 comp fk10 1.5 rockers 48idf's 1 3/4" header Rancho pro street trans SAW axles Airkewld 4# narrowed beam, Koni shocks, Airkewld dis brake all around. 5.5/4.5 BRMs

1966 Bug, 2127, panchito heads, fk8, 1.3 rockers, dual 44idfs, 1 5/8 merge header, Rancho pro strt flyer, empi axles, Airkewld's 4" beam and discs all around and adjustable shocks. 4.5 & 5.5 BRMs

[pondervwmike]

So I measured all my piston's skirts OD and their cylinders ID. I found about a .001 variance in skirt width between the 4 pistons. All the cylinders measured at 3.623". All clearances were between .002" and .003". Some felt stickier than the others even though they measured the same. I used a digital caliper and a telescopic inside bore gauge so I was probably off by half a thou here n there. I double checked my measurements with my feeler gauge and was able to fit a .002" blade in-between the skirt and the top of the cylinder. I hope this is good to run.
_________________
1967 Cal Look Beetle Street Car in re-restoration,customization. Mom and Dad bought it in 1983 when I was 4.
2010 VW Tiguan
2000 BMW 528i
1997 Jeep Cherokee
2127cc build thread https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=681556&highlight=

[pondervwmike]

So my engine is in pieces and I was waiting on funds to get my rotating assembly balanced. I had planned to get it balanced and build the shortblock. Fool with rocker geometry and all that along the way. Now since I have my heads I am wondering if I should mock up the whole longblock before I go to the machine shop. What do you guys do?
_________________
1967 Cal Look Beetle Street Car in re-restoration,customization. Mom and Dad bought it in 1983 when I was 4.
2010 VW Tiguan
2000 BMW 528i
1997 Jeep Cherokee
2127cc build thread https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=681556&highlight=

[motomwo]

I was reading what you have checked and measured so far. Will you be checking/degreeing in your cam or check valve to piston clearance also valve spring retainer to guide clearance rocker geometry?
You probably won't have a problem with valve to piston clearance but always safe to check first.
All the above can be done after assembling the short block. If you had to notch pistons, they can be rebalanced independent of your rotating assembly since 4 cyl apposed motor cranks are not balanced with bob weights.
So I would say you could go ahead and get your rotating assembly balanced. And if you going to install the cam straight up then you could assemble the short block.

Marty
_________________
1961 Bug, 2276 cb wedge ports 44x37 11.1 comp fk10 1.5 rockers 48idf's 1 3/4" header Rancho pro street trans SAW axles Airkewld 4# narrowed beam, Koni shocks, Airkewld dis brake all around. 5.5/4.5 BRMs

1966 Bug, 2127, panchito heads, fk8, 1.3 rockers, dual 44idfs, 1 5/8 merge header, Rancho pro strt flyer, empi axles, Airkewld's 4" beam and discs all around and adjustable shocks. 4.5 & 5.5 BRMs

[pondervwmike]

Thanks for reading Marty,

Yea I have some issues I need to address about my cam timing but I thought I could do that during the shortblock phase. Maybe not though. I think I will start a thread about my cam.
Thanks again
_________________
1967 Cal Look Beetle Street Car in re-restoration,customization. Mom and Dad bought it in 1983 when I was 4.
2010 VW Tiguan
2000 BMW 528i
1997 Jeep Cherokee
2127cc build thread https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=681556&highlight=

[pondervwmike]

I have decided to pull the oil galley plugs in my case. I really wanted to skip this step as I had in the past. I have built 4 or 5 stockish motors and never bothered to do this. They all ran fine and none showed any signs of unusal bearing wear. Well at least the ones that I got to tear apart.
I was going to use aluminum pipe plugs but everyone on the Samba said use steel or brass if you ever want to take them out. I figured I would like the ability to remove them if I have to tear down my motor for a contamination issue. I ordered the stainless steel pipe plugs along with a dent puller from Jegs It was about $50 for everything. I got 4 1/16" npt plugs, 2 1/8" npt plugs, 6 1/4" npt plugs and 2 3?8" npt plugs. I got the two extra 1/4" plugs so I could plug my galley and pump for full flow.
I will get my plugs and puller next week and head to the non VW machine shop that my buddy works at. He said he was "the best" at tapping aluminum so we will see.
I am following advice from the Samba members and this site http://www.huelsmann.us/bugman/FilterTech.html

PS: I also ordered some NGK D6EA Spark plugs so I can finally CC my Panchitos heads.
_________________
1967 Cal Look Beetle Street Car in re-restoration,customization. Mom and Dad bought it in 1983 when I was 4.
2010 VW Tiguan
2000 BMW 528i
1997 Jeep Cherokee
2127cc build thread https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=681556&highlight=

[esde]

[pondervwmike]

Thanks SD I may just hold off on balancing for now and mock up the longblock.

Got my stainless steel plugs and a slide hammer in from Jegs. Along with 2 huge stickers in case I wanted to advertise for them.

I got all my factory plugs pulled out with the slide hammer

Yea I boogered up one hole pretty bad but Im sure my buddy can fix it

What had happened was umm well the screw from the dent puller broke off in the plug. I tried to drill it out and the drill bit slipped and hit the case pretty hard. Then I decided I would just drill out a 1/4" hole where I had slipped into to get the rest of the plug out. I am hoping my machinist can fix my eff up here. I figure we can drill and tap this location for a 1/4"npt instead of the 1/16" npt.
_________________
1967 Cal Look Beetle Street Car in re-restoration,customization. Mom and Dad bought it in 1983 when I was 4.
2010 VW Tiguan
2000 BMW 528i
1997 Jeep Cherokee
2127cc build thread https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=681556&highlight=

[ALB]

As you've probably realized, the hole you cut in the pulley tin will allow preheated air into the engine compartment. It won't be a lot, but every little bit makes a difference, and it's all in the details. If you use the fitting that John gave the link to (I think on the 3rd page?) and use a file to round it off somewhat you'll now be able to weld the tin back up and the fitting will clear with just a small bump in the tin.

Have you given any thought to Bob Hoover's case modifications?
http://bobhooversblog.blogspot.ca/2007/05/hvx-mods.html
Everyone who does them says it's worthwhile, with more oil to the lifter bores, rockers and cooler running heads, so it's something you should consider. One note of caution- when extending the galley from front to back some people have broken through to the outside of the case, so I suggest filling that "divot" with 1/2" of epoxy beforehand. Sand the area well with rough sandpaper for good adhesion. A friend and I drilled a junk case with a 3/16" bit and found 1/16- 1/8" of material there (we just had to drill it through to see since it was a junk case!) and decided that the epoxy beforehand would be cheap insurance, as the casting there varies.

As usual, just my 2 1/2 cents (I'm Canadian, eh). Al
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On a lifelong mission to prove (much to my wife's dismay) that Immaturity is Forever!!

[terryly]

[mark tucker]

I wouldent trust epoxie, but that's me, I would rather pay attn. to what I'm doing and don't go through....you don't drill straight through. also..why for the ss plugs?? brass/bronze would be better. also why pull the plug at the cooler relief location??it's real eazy to eff up that bore doing that..do not drill it any bigger & don't bottom the tap and push the wall so it grabs the piston.... don't wory about the goof on the other end just tap it and put the plug in.