HELP..new engine won't start

[dougschne]

I'm working on my Buggy and I have my new engine ready to start. Everything is installed. I have gas, spark, oil pressure. I think I'm 180 degrees off. When I first tried to start it cranked and cranked. Getting gas and spark. Then it backfired. I remember from years ago that meant you were 180 degrees off. I turned the crank 1 turn which brought the distributor around 180 and re tried. It popped back thru the carb. I can't turn the rotor shaft because of the offset. With the crank at TDC, the distributor pointing to #1, the piston at the top of the stroke. When I turn the crank, the intake valve starts opening. Am I 180 degrees off? posting some pictures

As always, you guys are a great help for the mechanically challenged!

[Pruneman99]

Your on #3. Intake doesn't open after ignition, exhaust does. You might have to drive the pin out of the drive dog, turn it 180, reinstall, and try it again.

[David_nc_72std]

Distributor drive gear doesn't look like its installed correctly.

You are going to have to find TDC of cylinder #1 on the compression stroke, and then see where rotor is pointing, to determine where spark plug wire #1 should go.

[Dale M.]

Just for giggles... Bring up #1 TDC check that both intake and exhaust are closed, look at where rotor is pointing and put #1 plug wire there and set up firing order... IF it runs (and rotor does not point where you desire) then yes you may have timing issue....

Proper fix would be to put #1 TDC on compression and lift distributor drive and position it so rotor points approximately to pulley nut on crankshaft...

This is how I generally try to setup engine, it makes it vary easy to time and/or trouble shoot...

Dale
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All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ...

[Mikedrevguy]

If you are 180 out. You can reorient the plug wires accordingly and run it with no detrimental affects.
My idiot builder (that'd be me) did same on my motor.
I'll fix it when I tear it down next.

Good luck hope you get it squared.

Rev.
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[Mikedrevguy]

Double post
Rev.
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74 1303 (RevBug): plan for German Look
76 914 with 2260
79 VW Iltis
69 Bwajaja
"The wise speak because they have something to say; while the foolish speak because they have to say something." Plato

Illigitimi non-Carborundum!!

[dougschne]

Thanks. I knew you guys would have the advice needed. I will check the valves and TDC on the pulley and see where we line up. I didn't think about rearranging the wires. Should have it running tonite!

[dougschne]

It Runs! the distributor drive was 180deg off, Lined up the timing pulley, made sure valves were closed and rotor !80dge off. rewired the cap, put it together and fired up. Now need to try and keep it running. The only thing not new is the carb that I rebuilt. May end up buying new carb. thank again.

[dougschne]

Any suggestions on a new carb? Lots of them on Ebay with a wide price range. Need a 34 Pict 3 with alternator linkage.

[DuaneL]

[dougschne]

OK...I quit...cannot get this thing to run. I bought a new carb, new petronix distributor, set up the same. Checked TDC, wired cap accordingly, and can't get it to run. With the old carb it would run on high RPM but would not idle, then it would not run, not it won't even start. It fires and chugs, but won't start.

Is there some VW/buggy guy in the Battle Creek/Kalamazoo MI area that would be willing to give me a hand. I am about ready to give up on this thing.

Thanks,

[Pruneman99]

Hopefully someone can give you a hand. If not, just step back and take a second for your sanity.

Do you have the Muir book? Funny cartoonish instructions at the back that guides you steps to take if it won't fire up. I'm sure it's something simple, just go through each step, and double, tripple check that each thing is right.

More than once I beat my head into a wall just to find out I didn't have the cut off valve hooked up, or managed to forget to install the rotor

[vwjetboat]

take a compression test yet?

[dougschne]

OK..I'm better. Yes, I do have Muir's book and I'll go thru that. Just been frustrating and I took a long time making sure I installed the new carb and distributor right. Expected that it would start and run considering I was using an original carb and distributor on a completely new motor.

[dougschne]

OK..Last night I went back to it to make sure again that I had everything correct. Read the Muir book but didn't gain anything I didn't already know. I pulled valve cover again, made sure that I was on TDC. I know the distributor drive is 180deg off and I double checked again that the plug wires were right and that all wiring was connected. Even checked the rotor. Still nothing. When I had the valve cover off and #1 on TDC, I was noticing the valve adjustment looked off for the rockers. One had more of the adjusting screw showing thru the lock nut than the other. Should they not be similar and should there not be some play in the rockers if both valves are closed? With the old setup, carb and dist, it would start and run at a very high RPM until I would kick off the fast idle. Then it would not idle. It was running way too fast. At least it was starting but then I couldn't get it to start and now I can't even get it to run as before even with new carb and dist. Could a valve adjustment be in order. This is a newly rebuilt engine. I had it done 6 years ago and it has just been sitting waiting for me to get back to it. it was done by a respected VW guy here in the area. Of course he is no longer in the area since he retired from his job and moved on. Sorry for the long post. Really would love to have some hands or eyes on help. Thanks

[fl59bug]

Do you have gas in the float bowl? Had to ask at least to make sure blame still lies with the spark/timing.

This is my advice: with the passenger valve cover off, rotate your engine around until both I&E valves are completely closed. Look at your pulley, it should be at TDC. Since your distributor drive gear is off I won't factor that into this set of checks.

If you already have one great, but if not obtain a test timing light from the neighborhood auto parts store. With the key in the ignition, turn it to on, and go back to the engine bay, loosen the clamp on the distributor, connect the alligator clip on the test light to the #1 terminal on your coil and ground the test light body to something on the engine, perhaps one of the nuts holding down the fuel pump.

Rotate the distributor until the test light comes on, then lock down the distributor. Try to start the car.

If it still doesn't start, I'd guess one or more of your plug wires still may be connected to the wrong spark plug.

[FreeBug]

Take it easy, take it slow, and go back over it. Sometimes, in the beginning, I would find myself putting a plastic straw through the plug hole, and turning it over by hand, watching what the valves are doing in relation to the piston.

When it's clearer to you where you are, it will be clearer where you want to be.

-compression
-fuel
-spark

if those 3 things can be made to happen in the same place, at the same time, you're in business!

Hope that helps.

[dougschne]

Well...the mystery still continues. Tore it down. rechecked timing, plug wires, plugs. Have spark. double checked the carb settings. have fuel. did compression test. All OK. checked coil which was getting very warm. It test out. Still will try but not start. Keep flooding engine.

[ac509]

pull the distributor cap and crank the engine. watch which way the rotor turns and then double-check the plug wires. i just did this on my engine. i even drew an arrow on the distributor with a sharpie and .... STILL put the wires on backwards!!!

do this and then while the engine is cranking, turn the distributor back and forth until it starts (don't get zapped, but it only hurts for a minute). be careful when playing with the distributor that you don't break the cap. i also did this. because, you see, i once broke a crowbar in a sandbox.
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[earthquake]

Is the fuel cut off solenoid and choke wire hooked up to the correct terminal?

Casey
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