Motor Assembly Help!

[OLDBUGPROJECT]

I recently had a 1914cc built. It was supposed to be turn key and ready to put in my car. However when I picked it up this was where it was at. I took it and told the builder I would finish it myself. Now I need to know what parts I need in order to finish the assembly. Here are the parts I have that are NOT pictured: dual dellortos, all shrouds, alternator, fan, flywheel, pulley, breather box. Im having trouble sourcing the mountjng studs for the carbs as they are not present. I need to know where to purchase them and what size they are/could be. I tried to get detailed pictures to help the visual. Thank You for the help!

[Zundfolge1432]

Ace hardware sells metric all thread. You can measure and cut to length. If memory serves my correctly it's 8x1.25mm costs a couple bucks and most

[Cusser]

[rockerarm]

Hi. Do you have a build sheet that identifies some of the important parts inside?
Things such as valve size, static compression, chamber work, cam shaft, etc I would believe could influence some of the parts you need, such as the exhaust system, jetting, distrib.
Bill.

[OLDBUGPROJECT]

I dont have a build sheet. I know the compression is 9:1 and the cam is a 125. As far as other specifics Im unsure. Which is why Im kind of frustrated on what to do with this as far as getting it finished. I just need to get it into running condition. Thanks

[Danwvw]

Yeah, sounds like your all set. You can get 8mm exhaust studs on Amazon. M 8 - 1.25 x 38mm, normally new heads come with them. Also you could get a Junk engine case and rob the studs from it. I would just double nut them and remove them. The Dells should be fine. With that engine size your going to have enough flow to support 40X35.5mm valve heads and it could use a bigger Dellorto DRLA carb like a Dell 40 but the 36 would be fine too. Your going to need to figure out jetting to support your venturi size. Probably if you have the Big Valve heads you could run a 34 or 36mm venturi's Look down the throat of your Dells with a flashlight and see what the venturi's are stamped.
If your heads are stock size 35.5mm X 32mm on the valves. Ask the guy that built the engine what the heads are. Then you could probably run a smaller venturi like a 32 or 34mm The choice of venturi will determine the Jet sizes you need. Air corrections are usually: 1.80, Idles are .55's, and Main Jets will be something like 1.45 or something. Maybe less. Good to just copy what someone else has done on the same size of engine. Lots of build sheets on here. Then after you get it running you can figure out what changes you will need to make to the Dells. Make sure the Dells hold gas and that they don't leak or dribble gas into the engine while running too. Look down them and observe. You should not see gas unless you rev it then only a little. If it suets up the spark-plugs and won't start it's too rich. Set the float's on the dells by the book. I punch a hole in the top gasket so I can get a measuring stick down in the float bowl after they are on the engine so I can check that the gas levels are good. You should see them at about 28-32mm on the measuring stick. If you hit the float with the sick the level will go up try not to do that.
Sounds like fun. Check things. Good to know your fuel pressure etc... Timing around 7.5' BTDC with the engine stopped . Should be a good starting place.
Set the linkage up on the dells set the throttle stops the same. you want them just sightly (holding the throttle open) from where the throttle sticks.
Check that the accelerator Jets are all working. Dells are pretty easy to work on and will benefit from a good rebuilding with new orings and new gaskets.
It's going to need a remote oil filter adaptor if you don't have one yet.

Dellorto Float Setting:

Electric Fuel Pump:

Electric Fuel Pump Safety shutdown circuit taps the Alternator to see if it's charging before it lets the fuel pump run.

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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[67rustavenger]

Potential issue. In the image below there appears to be carbon in the intake ports. If it is a fresh build, carbon should not be present in the intake ports. Or exhaust ports either if the heads were rebuilt.

Also the Dist drive gear is missing. There are two washer type bushings that go onto the dist drive before it gets installed in the case.
Have a look at the dist drive worm gear on the crank all the way around. The teeth should be smooth. It they are buggered up that's a bad sign. They will display a little wear but should be smooth in appearance. Your gonna have to rotate the crank anyway to get it at TDC before installing the dist drive.
TDC will have the "Key" in the pulley end of the crank facing at the 9 o-clock position.

I'd pull the valve covers and have a look there as well. Lots of things can be found there that will tell you of a quality build or a complete hack job.

The pulley end of the crank has debris in the threads. Make sure to get that clean before you install the pulley bolt.

You really need the build sheet from the person that built it.

Not trying to be a "Debbie Downer" But I have seen these stories here and sometimes the outcome is questionable.
_________________
I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[heimlich]

[Glenn]

[Danwvw]

I noticed that too the carbon on the heads! Probably just a set of good used heads, probably stock! May or may not have good valve guides. You will find out though! It may smoke a little. No big deal though!
AS far as the distributor drive gear goes I put mine in last. It's easy if your carefull. I position the engine on #1 TDC then use a long screwdriver or even just a old pushrod to drop the drive gear washers in. They must go in first and fit down past the brass distributor gear on the crank. I would coat them with 40 weight oil or grease or something so they stay stuck down once in place. You can fish around with your pushrod or screwdriver and a flash light to align them so the distributor gear drops into place.
Before you do all this though make sure the distributor drive gear slips in and out of the case easy. you may have to clean the hole with sand paper or a round wire brush to make this happen. Good time to buy a distributor drive gear puller would be before this.
since the drive gear is not in I would set the flywheel end play and torque the gland nut first. It's probably already been done. It's a good idea though to check the end play yourself. it should be .004":
After all is well with the end play being set and the flywheel oring installed the flywheel being mounted and torqued to 240' lbs with blue threadlocker on the gland nut threads and grease on the pilot shaft bearings. Then make sure your on TDC #1 and install the distributor drive gear washers and the distributor drive gear. It goes with the slot closer to the front pretty much parallel with the rear crank pulley.

End Play check with a feeler gauge here, not the best way though:

End play is best checked with a dial gauge:

Threadlocker:

Distributor drive gear shim washers being installed:

This photo shows the distributor drive gear position, don't force it!

Stock DVDA distributor will position #1 here if the drive gear is correct.

009 and early distributors point to about 5:00 "O" Clock when on #1 and viewed from the rear:

_________________
1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[heimlich]

Is threadlocker necessary on the gland nut if it is torqued down correctly?

[Danwvw]

No it's just insurance!
_________________
1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[Pruneman99]

Did you pay for new parts? Nothing on that engine looks new that you can see from the pictures. Reusing oil coolers is a gamble. If it came off an engine that ate something, just about impossible to get all the junk out. If you paid for good, checked and measured used parts, nothing wrong with that as long as that's what you ordered. Regardless, there should be a build sheet showing all measurements and parts used.

[Slow 1200]

If you really have an Engle w125 camshaft in there it's not the greatest match to those non-ported heads

[Zundfolge1432]