Just bought a 1970, now got a 1968. Building that one.

[MSBenko]

[Chris333]

Exactly a week after it drove into the drive way.

The pans have the "nails" in them for the rubber and I don't think any of the after market pans have the nails do they?

Pulled the motor and trans and power washed the pan. Back driver wheel barely spins so either a bearing or the brakes. Will look into it.

[Q-Dog]

Since the rubber was "nailed" to the pan during assembly, no, the pans would not have nails in them until the rubber was attached.
_________________
Brian

'69 Dune Buggy
'69 Beetle Convertible
'70 Beetle

[57BLITZ]

[Chris333]

I pulled the drum and the axle spins free. So I turned in the adjusters all tbe way. It is much more free, but still a little drag. Bently says turn till a slight drag and then back off 3-4 clicks. I can't back off any more.

Can I check the cylinder by trying to sqeeze it more? If no more travel what should I look at next?

Thanks

[57BLITZ]

The brake shoe return Springs should be sufficient to cause the wheel cylinder pistons to return.
If you peel back the boots on the wheel cylinders you should be able to see if the piston(s) are sticking out, and not returning.
The pistons could be sticking due to a rusty cylinder, or the rubber flex hose has deteriorated and has swollen closed On the inside where you cannot see it!
_________________
Jesucristo es mi Señor y Salvador!

[Chris333]

I took these off today just to clean the bolt and hole threads. I ordered new bushings, but should I replace these plates too?

There is a bubble of rust on the inside. Like this on both sides. I have dual spring plates so I imagine this cover with the spacers for the dual plates is probably hard to find?

Can I buy these?

Thanks
Chris

[joey1320]

I would try cleaning them with a small wire wheel. If you're not happy with the final product, check the classified section or http://toplineparts.com
_________________
**1971 Super Project
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

[Chris333]

Thanks. What is the parts official name?

[Chris333]

2 week anniversary and found more rust

Ordered a "HAT" now looks like I need the front bottom plate as well.

[joey1320]

Dude you're killing it. Nice!

Where in Ohio are you?
_________________
**1971 Super Project
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

[Chris333]

Warren/Niles area.

[wcfvw69]

I've done all these rust repairs on my convertible. A few suggestions.

The top hat I bought was the only one available back then. It was garbage and didn't fit well at all. If I did it again, I would of only removed the lower, rusty parts of the top hat where the bolts go though to the body. Then cut those pieces you removed off the new one. Splice them to the remains of the original. I'd do the same to the front firewall where it's rusted at the bottom corners. I removed the whole firewall and it was a nightmare.

You CAN change the heater channel/channels yourself. Bug-me-video made a video on how to do it. You may buy it to get a feel for what's involved. It's not hard as long as you measure, measure some more before welding in the new one. The key to changing the heater channels and floor pans and any other sheet metal is to buy the best quality repair metal you can get. The cheap panels are poorly stamped and are thin metal. You could even get used rust free heater channels and other needed metal off a donor car in the dry SW USA. Check the classifieds. This would be the way I'd go if I did that type of repair again.

My earlier point is don't replace an entire piece or panel unless it's easily removed. It's much easier to splice in new metal to replace the metal that rusted. If you take your time and do it cleanly, it will look great.
_________________
Contact me at [email protected]
Follow me on instagram @sparxwerksllc

Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
The Samba member since 2004.

**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche distributors or I can restore yours**

[Chris333]

Thanks. I planned to try and just trim the ends off the hat. Even thinking to repair the bottom plate with some 1/8" sheet. Since I plan to lower the car pretty low. I want to weld some reinforcements under the front. Not so much for strength, but for scraping the ground. Would rather scrape a sacrificial bar instead of good VW (or what's left of it)metal. Maybe just some 1" square tubing. Haven't figured it all out yet.

[Abscate]

[Chris333]

Today I cleaned the tranny, was black.

While cleaning I noticed a leak at the gap where I drew red lines. Is this a nornal place to leak and can just that gasket be replace.

Or could it just have been because the tranny was up side down for cleaning?

[Rome]

Chris- very good job cleaning the trans. Will you spray a solvent-resistant clear on it to prevent oxidation, and seal off the surface porosity? You'll need to be very diligent to wipe the entire surface, and all corners with a lacquer thinner/"Prep-Sol" type cleaner.

VW painted their Type 1 transmissions semi-gloss black at the factory in the mid '60's, though I'm nearly certain that practice was dropped a few years before your car was built. Local friend is the original owner of a '65 Ghia cabrio, and when he had the trans rebuilt about 10 yrs ago due to some weak synchros, he noted it was all-black.

The part of the transmission to the left (frontwards) of that parting line is known as the nose cone. There actually is a very small weep/vent hole on top, no more than 1/8" diameter. It's very possible that some trans fluid dripped out of there when you had the trans upside-down. I suggest cleaning off the oil with brake clean spray, placing a clean paper towel under the nose cone seam, and simply monitor for any drips during the week with the trans in the position shown. Replacing the gasket there is a good idea due to the age and overall hard life of the drivetrain, but if there are no leaks after a week with the trans in the normal position you can probably get away without the replacement.

Will you plan on draining and replacing the trans fluid? Now is the best time with it out; you have best access to the filler hole (17mm hex insert; or take a 17mm headed bolt and double-nut two nuts on the threads so you can grip the nuts with a wrench and loosen the filler plug).

[Chris333]

Thank you. I didn't know about the weep hole. Will wipe it down a keep checking.

When I say it was black, I mean it was dirt, tar undercoating, oil stained color. I don't think it was painted at all. I know my pressure washer didn't touch the grime. It took all day with de-greaser and many wire brushes. Did down in the corners with a drill, but the rest was by hand starting by digging out the thick crud first.

Yes I plan to change the trans-fluid before putting it back in the car. Have a 17mm allen socket.

EDIT: I just checked and see the small weep hole at the top front. Would have never noticed that on my own...

[Chris333]

Does it need to be protected somehow? Because if I need to paint it I think it'll need sand blasting for that. So many small nooks and crannies.

[Q-Dog]

Your transmission would not have been painted from the factory. You don't need to do anything to it.

And sandblasting a transmission is a big nope. It would require you to completely disassemble it afterwards to get out all of the blasting media that gets forced in through all the mating surfaces and seals. There were some pictures somewhere on here showing the aftermath of sandblasting and it wasn't pretty.

Found a pic. pretty, yes?

_________________
Brian

'69 Dune Buggy
'69 Beetle Convertible
'70 Beetle