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Kill switch and jumper terminal install
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Vnyd Dog
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 3:33 pm    Post subject: Kill switch and jumper terminal install Reply with quote

Greetings all. This was my morning project and for the mid-level to beginners like myself I thought I'd post up my experience installing a fresh battery and kill switch and jumper terminals. I had the three projects. I previously purchased and install the VanagonLife console on the first group buy.

http://www.vanagonlife.com/theshop/locking-steel-center-console

I knew eventually I wanted to do the Blue Sea kill switch that Dave designed the console to accomodate.

As I began thinking about that, I knew I also wanted a new battery (yep, the Walmart one) and a set of Terry's jumper terminals.

http://vanagonwestfaliaaccessories.com// (scroll down)

For the kill switch, I ordered a red one, I like red. I also had Dave send me his kill switch kit which I must say is simple but very very nice. Includes awesome cables with lugs installed and abrasion guards on, plus the perfect machine screws to mount the switch and some grommets.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/11/37/Manual%20Battery%20Switches/m-Series

http://www.vanagonlife.com/theshop/console-accessories

Step one was getting the grandparents to watch the toddler so I could concentrate.

This is what I started with:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Here's the pics of the VanagonLife install kit and my switch and Terry's jumper terminal I had already bolted down. Terry doesn't play. You already know that. He got me a kit out in a few days and I can't believe I've gone all these years without a remote jumper terminal.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Next I pulled the battery and cleaned up the box and the endless supply of mouse poop. You can see the left black panel. I did a 1/4 battery box mod and just drilled out about 5 rivets and removed this panel so I can see if I could drill form the inside. I could not but I don't have a pic.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I had hoped and hoped I wouldn't have to remove the console I previously installed to drill the 1" holes through the pedestal to run the kill switch cables but alas, after I got the battery box out and drilled out the left side battery box panel, I discovered it was a no go. The holes had to be drilled from the exterior.
So, that was an hour setback undoing my wires, the seatbelt receivers, and moving the console. But this allowed me to reach into the console with a sharpie and perfectly mark the holes.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

And remove the console and drill:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

After the holes were drilled I cleaned em up with a file and lube and stuck in the grommets from Dave's kit. Essential. Then I ran the cables into the box and mounted the switch:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

After that, factory ground strap gets removed and one end from the kill switch takes its place. The other cable to the battery.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Dropped in the new battery and then spent a while getting all the fittings oriented the way I needed them, including at this point mounting the lugs from Terry's jumper kit. His cables are dead on with little margin for error regarding slack. Basically I didn't show it because the finish work is spaghetti but I drilled out the top of the battery cover to allow clearance for the jumpers and voila. Done and the Van even started with the switch on position.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I know, some real detailed types are screaming what I learned too. Basically the jumper terminal would bypass the kill switch if a thief were to be prepared for that. But, I think this solution works for me. For anyone looking to add the kill switch to their console, just get Dave's kit. It makes install brainless mostly. His lugs on his cables only fit one way, meaning one size lug fits his provided negative batter terminal clap and the other lug fits the factory bolt for the ground in the box. Just check your ends first and then connect to the switch etc. as the switch is marked battery and common! I can sleep a little better now!
Next up, talking to theadventureneverends for help with Thule ARGs, Jack Bombays and clearing a Fiamma!
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theadventureneverends
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 11, 2017 8:16 pm    Post subject: Re: Kill switch and and jumper terminal install. Reply with quote

Stoked on the detailed write up you did! I finally installed the console about a week ago. It was painless. I had just enough time to install prior to our road trip which did not happen. The kill switch will be my next job and while there better do the remote jumper as well!

I am on the fence between a single and double battery switch from blue sea. Dave uses a single and is happy with it. I will be adding another battery under driver seat at some point so maybe a dual switch now is a good call?

Any more pictures of your install?

If you are still planning on ARGs, Fiamma, and JBs feel free to call or text if you have any questions about my measurements pm me for my number.
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 11, 2017 11:05 pm    Post subject: Re: Kill switch and and jumper terminal install. Reply with quote

Following this.
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Bills85Westy
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 12, 2017 12:03 am    Post subject: Re: Kill switch and and jumper terminal install. Reply with quote

Hey Chris,

Thanks for showing me your setup in person today! I'm now rethinking my house battery setup and storage.

Bill
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 12, 2017 1:42 am    Post subject: Re: Kill switch and and jumper terminal install. Reply with quote

Excellent write up!

While I don't need / want the console, I do want the kill switch. It looks like a great mounting spot on the angled part of the seat pedestal.

I will contact VanagonLife and buy his cable kit for the kill switch.

BTW.....
Blue Sea makes a key option switch too.

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Battery-Sw...1&th=1

I will probably buy the 6006200 black switch.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/6006200/m-Series_Mini_On-Off_Battery_Switch_with__Knob_-_Black

Thanks for your guidance and inspiration!

Dave
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Last edited by djkeev on Sat Aug 12, 2017 2:07 am; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 12, 2017 2:06 am    Post subject: Re: Kill switch and and jumper terminal install. Reply with quote

Is there enough room in the box to mount the switch do that the cables run internal rather than through the ajar door?

Aesthetics, but also chafe protection.
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 12, 2017 2:57 am    Post subject: Re: Kill switch and and jumper terminal install. Reply with quote

I recently did a seat swap. There is a lot of space towards the center aisle. Towards the Van exterior? ..... No, you end up in the wheel well and vapor tank area.
Even when drilling a the holes to mount Terry's jumper wire plug on top, be aware of the vapor tank below!


Dave
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Vnyd Dog
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 12, 2017 7:36 am    Post subject: Re: Kill switch and and jumper terminal install. Reply with quote

Another note you'll see my jumper terminal I added the rubber boot cover thing. It was about $6 on Amzn but I didn't want to leave it exposed. Terry's kit didn't include and that's the only shortcoming.
Agreed about the vapor tank. I crawled all around the wheel well trying to insure I wasn't going to screw into anything. I couldn't really see so based on Terry's advice I just went for it and tried to drill some shallow pilot holes for the screws. Seems to be good.

Abscate I'm not sure if this answers your question but the console box is pre cut with 2 1" holes about 1/2 inch apart. Each cable from the kill switch passes through its own hole and included grommet into the holes I drilled in my pedestal. No external routing. Were you asking about mounting in battery box? That might work if you remove the box panels and open it up. I don't have pictures of my drilling out the rivets and removing the one panel.
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 12, 2017 8:00 am    Post subject: Re: Kill switch and and jumper terminal install. Reply with quote

I strongly suggest you read the various mouse threads and remedy your entry points, especially that highway into the battery box

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0


Scroll down to "Rodent Problems"

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6236057#6236057

Dave
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WestyWanderlust
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PostPosted: Tue May 21, 2019 5:34 pm    Post subject: Re: Kill switch and and jumper terminal install. Reply with quote

Thank you for this write-up! Can you please clarify the following:

1) When you drilled the holes from the exterior to the battery box, what size drill bit did you use?
2) When you drilled the holes through the second wall on the inside of the battery box (from the interior), which size drill bit did you use?
3) On attaching the cables from the shut-off box to the battery, did you put the "input" wire to the positive battery terminal and the "output" to the negative battery terminal? I was not sure of this and the shut-off box company website is not to clear on that as it is specific to the Vanagon.

Thanks in advance for your help here!
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Vnyd Dog
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PostPosted: Tue May 21, 2019 8:29 pm    Post subject: Re: Kill switch and and jumper terminal install. Reply with quote

WestyWanderlust wrote:
Thank you for this write-up! Can you please clarify the following:

1) When you drilled the holes from the exterior to the battery box, what size drill bit did you use?
2) When you drilled the holes through the second wall on the inside of the battery box (from the interior), which size drill bit did you use?
3) On attaching the cables from the shut-off box to the battery, did you put the "input" wire to the positive battery terminal and the "output" to the negative battery terminal? I was not sure of this and the shut-off box company website is not to clear on that as it is specific to the Vanagon.

Thanks in advance for your help here!

Hey there. Yes I should have documented better as now my memory is a little fuzzy. If I recall, I must have used about a 1" or larger hole saw like this:
https://www.amazon.com/LENOX-Tools-Bi-Metal-Arbore...T5FQ4S5KX1

I just matched up a hole saw from my tool box to the closest size of the holes already cut in the console. You can see the red pen marks I made in the pic on the gray carpet. Oh and I only recall having to drill one set of holse from the box. I think I just drilled out some small rivets holding the interior metal pieces of the box together, and with the piece of the box out of the way, it's mostly an open shot out of the pedestal.

As for the switch, it's basically a ground cutoff. So you'll run your ground cable from the body to the switch IN, and then another cable from the switch OUT back to connect to the battery. When the switch is off, the battery therefore has no ground connection and so the electrical is cut. Hope that helps.
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PostPosted: Fri May 24, 2019 10:04 am    Post subject: Re: Kill switch and and jumper terminal install. Reply with quote

Thank you so much @Vnyd Dog! That is super helpful. I am excited to get this completed today!

Last edited by WestyWanderlust on Fri May 24, 2019 11:14 am; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Fri May 24, 2019 10:59 am    Post subject: Re: Kill switch and and jumper terminal install. Reply with quote

WestyWanderlust wrote:
Thank you so much @Vnyd Dog! That is super helpful. I am excited to get this competed today!


No worries. Good luck and shoot me a PM if you run into any glitches. Once you dig into it it'll make sense I'm sure, assuming you're using the kit from Vanagon Life. That's what my thread was based on.
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 17, 2019 11:32 pm    Post subject: Re: Kill switch and and jumper terminal install. Reply with quote

I'm in the middle of this installation, on a Syncro. I appreciate this write up, since no real instructions came with my kit. As you all know, there is precious little extra room in the battery box for extra cables.
I may be missing something, hence my remarks. I had to drill through two layers of sheetmetal, one thicker at an angle, [is Syncro different here?] to get to the battery box after removing the console. My carbide hole saws didn't like the angle cut and I fried two of them. I suppose I could have drilled the inner layer from inside the battery box.
I'm challenged trying to mount the switch box in the console, after installing the battery with new cables. The switch box is a tight fit with the heavy cable since the mounting position is tight in the rear corner of the console, and I'm having trouble lining screws up with the threaded holes. I would not think it should be this hard.
I ended up with some extra cable in the console; I may actually take out the battery and mount the switch securely first, then install the battery and stuff the extra cable around the top edge.
Feedback is welcome, however "obvious!" I'll finish this installation tomorrow.
If the kit included some "suggested" cable routing instructions, it might make this a little more straight forward.
Otherwise, no complaints about the console or the switch kit. Top quality!
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2019 6:28 am    Post subject: Re: Kill switch and and jumper terminal install. Reply with quote

I'm about to tackle this project as well. Got the center console in the group buy a while back and love it. I'm more concerned about an emergency kill switch in case of fire than anything else.

More pictures and info on what size drills used to get into the battery box would be really helpful if others could share.
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2019 6:50 am    Post subject: Re: Kill switch and and jumper terminal install. Reply with quote

michaelbteam wrote:
I'm in the middle of this installation, on a Syncro. I appreciate this write up, since no real instructions came with my kit. As you all know, there is precious little extra room in the battery box for extra cables.
I may be missing something, hence my remarks. I had to drill through two layers of sheetmetal, one thicker at an angle, [is Syncro different here?] to get to the battery box after removing the console. My carbide hole saws didn't like the angle cut and I fried two of them. I suppose I could have drilled the inner layer from inside the battery box.
I'm challenged trying to mount the switch box in the console, after installing the battery with new cables. The switch box is a tight fit with the heavy cable since the mounting position is tight in the rear corner of the console, and I'm having trouble lining screws up with the threaded holes. I would not think it should be this hard.
I ended up with some extra cable in the console; I may actually take out the battery and mount the switch securely first, then install the battery and stuff the extra cable around the top edge.
Feedback is welcome, however "obvious!" I'll finish this installation tomorrow.
If the kit included some "suggested" cable routing instructions, it might make this a little more straight forward.
Otherwise, no complaints about the console or the switch kit. Top quality!


Now you’re on the right track. Did you first remove the battery box walls? Those thin gauge black metal pieces that are riveted in? That’s the first trick. I don’t think you could do it otherwise.

For the switch what I did was slide the console out of position down about half way. I put the switch on and ran the cables out of the console and over into their new holes in the pedestal. The I slid the console back up the center and pulled cables back into battery box and fitted everything back together. I think also with console out you’d be having an easier time mounting the switch in there.

As for hole size, I seem to recall it’s somewhere between 1 1/8” or maybe a touch larger. You can’t mess up.
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2019 6:54 am    Post subject: Re: Kill switch and and jumper terminal install. Reply with quote

Ha! I even found my email from Dave when I had the same question:
Afternoon Chris,
The through holes for the console and grommets are 1". We use a 1" hole saw for this when we install them here at the shop.
Cheers
Dave
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2019 7:10 am    Post subject: Re: Kill switch and and jumper terminal install. Reply with quote

The limited instructions with the kit call for a 1" hole saw, and two rubber grommets are included for the two holes to be drilled through to the battery box, matching the holes already in the console. [Although I ended up with 4 holes, through two layers.]
I had some carbide hole saws leftover from a plumbing project and used those, which were destroyed. I think you could easily cut small square openings with metal jigsaw blades or even a Dremel with a cutting wheel, which I used to clean up my holes.
I like the kit from Vanagonlife but you could make your own and mount the switch anywhere.
As I complete this adventure later today, I'm sure the process will finally become clearer to me me. Later.
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2019 7:48 am    Post subject: Re: Kill switch and and jumper terminal install. Reply with quote

michaelbteam wrote:
The limited instructions with the kit call for a 1" hole saw, and two rubber grommets are included for the two holes to be drilled through to the battery box, matching the holes already in the console. [Although I ended up with 4 holes, through two layers.]
I had some carbide hole saws leftover from a plumbing project and used those, which were destroyed. I think you could easily cut small square openings with metal jigsaw blades or even a Dremel with a cutting wheel, which I used to clean up my holes.
I like the kit from Vanagonlife but you could make your own and mount the switch anywhere.
As I complete this adventure later today, I'm sure the process will finally become clearer to me me. Later.

Um Jigsaw? No offense but you’re over thinking this. Here is the only tool you need for holes like this:
https://www.amazon.com/LENOX-Tools-Bi-Metal-Arbore...amp;sr=8-3

Zips through in about 5 seconds.
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2019 10:36 pm    Post subject: Re: Kill switch and and jumper terminal install Reply with quote

Thanks Vynd Dog: that's exactly what I used. Did you drill through two walls? Sounds like perhaps you drilled rivets and removed inner wall. You made it sound simple and easy.
My hole saw went quickly straight through carpeted outer thin wall; to keep same path, the thicker inner wall was contacted at an angle which burned up the drills quickly, although I got through. The main question I have is about tight cable routing into the switch, making it difficult to screw switch screws into the console. I can certainly do it but did not expect it to be so difficult.
Puzzling this out here to see if anyone has other experience with this installation to share.
I'm no stranger to challenges like this. If I can figure out an error it may save someone else trouble.
Minor problem.
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