1974 Super Beetle Convertible

[djgpitcrew]

joey1320
I have been slowly cleaning up lose things here lose thing there. I have got all the new manuals been reading a lot and digging out old dusty neglected tools. Got the timing light and dwell meter out today and cleaned them up. Going to see where it is set tomorrow. I think it does seems physically just a little off just comparing dozens of others from on line sources.

Most of the "complaints" (I don't mean that as a negative) but as a descriptor. Most have been a hesitation when accelerating. Considering my wife hasn't driven a standard for years but learn to drive by driving a hay truck in the field.... hesitation seems somewhat normal and accetable. Someday we'll get it probably tune but for now she loves driving it hesitation and all. So my mission everyday is to fix a few things but keep it starting and running.

The "pitcrew"

We evicted this hitch hiker on day one. It ran with this mess in the air filter chamber.... to go on and off the shipping truck.

[joey1320]

Nothing wrong with enjoying the car

Since you are driving it, please cover the hole on the breastplate so your engine doesn't overheat. Somebody's house just got foreclosed on
_________________
**1971 Super Project
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

[Tim Donahoe]

The "hesitation" is not normal. You have an 09, coupled with a 34 pict 3, so there is no vacuum advance to get you over the initial hurdle, so to speak.

Also, I don't know if the timing on your current setup will be at the V notch in the pulley to crack in the crankcase. Assuming your pulley is original to the car, the V notch will be at 7.5 degrees BTDC while timing at idle. The 09 is set at another spot, so I believe 09 folks time at full Rpms to 32 degrees BTDC.

Once you get a good 034 SVDA, you will have to re-time to the v notch.

By the way, I was ragging out RockAuto in a previous post, but they are the only outlet I've seen that carries the air cleaner thermostat (should your not work, once you have all the hoses and stuff hooked up).

Tim
_________________
Let's do the Time Warp again!

Richard O'Brien

[wcfvw69]

Most classic VW owners today don't understand the importance of all the original engine parts needing to be hooked up and working correctly. These engines need them all in place to achieve a smooth, flat spot/hesitation free drive ability, especially in the winter. Yes, in the rust belt most VW's are parked for the winter due to snow/salt. Here in the SW USA, our bugs come out of hibernation and are used more regularly.

Having the correct matching carb/distributor combination is most critical. But also important in that equation is having the thermostat and flaps installed and working correctly. The warm air inlet to the carb via the stove pipe and thermostat in the air filter also play huge roles when running a cold engine first thing in the morning. Insuring you're running the correct stock muffler that flows the right amount of hot exhaust via the heat risers in the carb manifold is critical as well.

VW didn't install unnecessary parts on these engines. Each one was installed for a specific reason. Over the decades, many of these parts were removed as they were deemed "not needed" by a lazy owner or mechanic. Couple that with installing poor quality, non matching parts and we now have many lousy driving surviving VW's.

A bone stock VW should start at the flick of the key on a 30 degree morning. It should idle beautifully while the chokes in play and drive down the road immediately without any hesitation or cold engine symptoms.

I say this a lot. Not many of today's classic VW owners have had the pleasure of driving a VW with a bone stock engine with all it's original, restored parts in place. They would be shocked at how well these VW's run.
_________________
Contact me at [email protected]
Follow me on instagram @sparxwerksllc

Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
The Samba member since 2004.

**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche distributors or I can restore yours**

[Tim Donahoe]

Wcf, I have a "bone stock" bug, and I have to say, you are correct. The engine starts right up with the flick of a key.

I see a number of bug owners here in town at shows, and when they go to start the car, they just lay on the starter, on and on and on. Eventually, the engine starts, and I have to wonder why they put up with it. But they think it's part of the acvw experience, I guess.

Wayne, check inside your fan shroud and under the cylinder tins for more nesting materials like you found in the air cleaner.

Tim
_________________
Let's do the Time Warp again!

Richard O'Brien

[djgpitcrew]

Well on a different note. We took a couple of days off "pulling wrenches".

We used an original 1974 Volkswagen paint chart I bought on eBay for $7.00. to get the local NAPA dealer to see if they could mix the color.

Bingo two days later we have a test pint of L98C Harvest Gold Met. A quick comparison and it looks darn close if not perfect.

We are no where near a paint job but we have spots that have been "patched" and painted with an off color gold. We also have small chipped areas that we want to prep and cover to hold it until we decided just how far we can go with a partial restoration.

Hoping to use an artist's airbrush for touch up. With guidance from a retired auto body technician and a neighbor who can wield a super airbrush.

Yesterday we fixed a couple of minor dents (parking lot encounters) with a "bridge" dent puller. We were impressed with how well it worked. We are working our way up to the one larger dent / scuff marked front fender.

We have no expectation that we are prepping a show car but it is something that we are doing together in the backyard.

One final note on the paint I was really impressed how we could use a 43 year old paint chart to have a NAPA dealer plug in the L98C code into their computerized paint mixing system and deliver a damn close match.

We have been trying to paint one side of our house ever year so that ever 4 years it is painted. We can't get a good match from year to year for our two house colors. 43 year later I'm impressed.

But one question I couldn't answer was were the cars clear coated in 1974?

Final note there were 28 distinct colors for 1974 Volkswagens according to my eBay charts.

[Tim Donahoe]

My '74 Sun Bug was repainted with a clear coat, so I can't help you with your last question. But the interior wasn't repainted, and it doesn't appear to have a clear coat on it.

Sun Bugs were also pained Hellas Gold Metallic but most seem to be the Harvest Gold that you have.

My repaint was not done in either. The painter simply mixed up something very close, and then he sprayed the exterior. He did a fairly nice job, too. You might try painting entire panels if the airbrushing doesn't pan out.

Tim
_________________
Let's do the Time Warp again!

Richard O'Brien

[tasb]

You were lucky/had a good paint mixer on hand. There are many VW colors that cannot be so easily matched.

Bill is spot on with the carburetor/distributor combo. I spent a good part of the day yesterday educating people at the giant Pomona swap meet about the intricacies of the correct match. Most started out by asking if I had any 009's.
_________________
Roads Scholar &
1957 Kombi low mileage 36 hp governor equipped M 178 Slow Drag Winner 2014, 2015, 2018

1965 hardtop Deluxe Microbus owned since 1990 M 620 factory 12 v 1500cc

1961 (October)Single Cab- Road Trip Workhorse

[djgpitcrew]

[Tim Donahoe]

You have a 1600 dual-port motor. The number on it makes no difference. Being a rebuild makes no difference. That stock motor has nothing to do with the distributor and/or carburetor. You could have an original motor or a similar motor that came out of another car (most rebuilt motors do). My 1974, for instance, has a 1969 long block. It starts with a B, then a bunch of numbers. Forget about this part of the equation.

On a stock motor like yours, you need only match the distributor with the correct carburetor.

Tim
_________________
Let's do the Time Warp again!

Richard O'Brien

[djgpitcrew]

Tim

Great Tim thanks for clearing all that confusion up for me.

So in the hunt for a new distributor. I will do as you suggested in an earlier post I will start a new thread. Also I think there are two distributor rebuilders that have both contributed to this thread. I will go back and reread the posts and PM them to start.

Tim can you tell me what the breastplate is I'm learning the new lingo one word at a time.

[wcfvw69]

You still need to identify the base flange number of that carb. I haven't seen you share that number yet. Hopefully it's not a DVDA carb though it could be modified easily to work with a SVDA.
_________________
Contact me at [email protected]
Follow me on instagram @sparxwerksllc

Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
The Samba member since 2004.

**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche distributors or I can restore yours**

[djgpitcrew]

Bill

I'm not sure where those numbers are. On the carb flange L or R? or on the bowl.

Would I need to have the carb out to find them. If so I need to get a new carb/manifold gasket first.

Thanks Bill
Wayne

[wcfvw69]

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=5693683

Look at this thread above. It shows you were the base flange number is. Usually it's at the base of the carb towards the back of the carb or even behind it near the fuel bowl. You may be able to see it with a mirror and if not, you'll have to remove the carb.
_________________
Contact me at [email protected]
Follow me on instagram @sparxwerksllc

Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
The Samba member since 2004.

**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche distributors or I can restore yours**

[tasb]

You have a DVDA carburetor based on the last pic you provided. That nipple that sticks out towards the rear of the car is the hose connection for the retard port of the distributor. It's currently a vacuum leak drawing in unwanted o2. The flange number will tell us what distributor was matched to the carburetor at the factory.

I go to two or three campout/car shows a year. I have to chuckle to myself when I here those higher than stock horse power engines with dual carburetors. No pre heat hoses, no choke or thermostats operating, that run like crap for the first 10 minutes. On a few occasions I've had enthusiasts come up to me and ask me how I am able to get my engine to start instantly, idle smoothly and quietly on a cold morning. It's all about putting those factory pieces back on the engine.
_________________
Roads Scholar &
1957 Kombi low mileage 36 hp governor equipped M 178 Slow Drag Winner 2014, 2015, 2018

1965 hardtop Deluxe Microbus owned since 1990 M 620 factory 12 v 1500cc

1961 (October)Single Cab- Road Trip Workhorse

[Tim Donahoe]

Wayne, I call the rear tin the breast plate. It's the first piece of tin you see when you open the engine lid. It has three large holes in it for your fresh air hoses, and your preheater hose. It covers most of the bottom rear of your engine. Remember, the back of your engine is pointing toward the back of the car.

Yes, you have a DVDA distributor, and two pipes need to be capped off (get the rubber ones, not the plastic).

If it were me, I'd get a good 34 pict 3 SVDA-compatible, and with the alternator-compatible accelerator pump linkage, German Solex carburetor. Then I'd match it with a Bosch 034 distributor. You can Google Volkzbitz for a good professionally-restored one. He does a great job on these. He will probably give you credit on your core, too. I can't praise this guy enough.

But ... you may simply want to keep your old carburetor and find a DVDA distributor. I don't know who has a good one, however. Maybe a WTB ad in the Samba Classifieds will bring one up.

By the way, the fuel line in your engine bay looks like it's swollen--or simply too large. Replace it with some good German braided 5.5 ml. hose, or Belmetric makes good unbraided 5.5 hose also. I'd also get rid of the fuel filter in the engine bay. You may already have another filter under your fuel tank.

Tim
_________________
Let's do the Time Warp again!

Richard O'Brien

[djgpitcrew]

Ok finally found the the Carb flange # and compared it to this list that I was pointed to by someone following this thread Thanks.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=5693683

If I'm reading the chart from the above link correct.

With this carb.

[tasb]

Well, that's interesting. The distributor factory matched to that carburetor is an SVDA. I have a handful of 170 036= ( 043 905 205 A) cores because they appear and perform just like the 170 034 but since they don't have the Bosch "034" on them I can get them for $5 at swaps. They have the same advance weights, vacuum canister and tune up parts. They also perform on the Sun machine very close if not identical to the 170 034.

I'm not a carburetor expert, the other Tim at Volkzbitz is but, I'd guess the other vacuum pipe(s) were added later?
_________________
Roads Scholar &
1957 Kombi low mileage 36 hp governor equipped M 178 Slow Drag Winner 2014, 2015, 2018

1965 hardtop Deluxe Microbus owned since 1990 M 620 factory 12 v 1500cc

1961 (October)Single Cab- Road Trip Workhorse

[djgpitcrew]

Thanks to everyone who offered assistance with this post. My wife and I have been working a few hours each day on a project or two on the SB. We have been fixing wiring that needed attention. Cleaning (wire brushing) rusted areas and treating them with a rust "converting" product that brushes on. Seems to work great "converts" the rust to a paintable surface. We concentrated on the front "trunk" area with good success. It has at least one primer coat on. This is no where near showroom prep. This is stop the progression of rust for now. I am re-reading the posts and checking off the list of suggestions.

Thanks again.

[djgpitcrew]

Time for an update. Since the last time I posted we have been working on small defined projects. One that we can complete in a day or two. Things like working on rusted areas to try and slow the progress. The good news is most rusted areas have not had any rusted out thru the body spots. We have clean and prepped small area and applied rust preventive products. Then followed up with a paint application. The front trunk area is now clean dry and painted with a primer. Although it won't ever be a show car these little projects have helped the general appearance.

As for the mechanical. I have done the small tune up and repair things that have made it run better and sound better (needs a new muffler). We have bought a new distributor, coil, carburetor, wires, plugs and gaskets. Most all based on recommendations from this forum. My primary goal each day is to keep it running so she can drive it. We have about a month of decent weather left to drive before it needs to be stored for the winter. The plan at this point is to look to spring for installation of the new parts mentioned above. I avoided jumping into changing out parts as they arrived. So in the spring it will start off with new carb, distributor, coil, plugs and wires, gaskets where needed, adjusted valves and a new muffler.

One expense that we hadn't counted one was tires. We thought the tires on the car look good except for a little side wall checking. We soon discovered that although the tread depth was great that the tires suffered from age. One tire in particular had a separation of the tread to the radial belting.We decided the safest thing was to replace all four tires and the spare.

Lots of short local trips including giving the neighborhood kids a ride. Mosts had never seen a VW bug or ridden in a convertible. Even the adults want to ride in the "cute little gold bug".

So again thanks to all that helped with suggestions on the mechanical stuff.

For those of you who can drive year around enjoy your winter months. Those of us who live in snow country will be reading, learning and planning spring VW projects. And probably stockpiling some additional parts.... muffler first and foremost. Easier on the retirement budget to spread out the buying.

Later
djgpitcrew