Carburator problems

[Mudpump]

[Jboy023]

The thing about the empi carb shown is with it completely tore down in the picture. If I move it or shake it I can hear something banging around in some of the holes. With everything hooked up properly I could not get it to idle unless giving it gas. So I put my bocar back on and thats when I have the issue of the fuel blowing through that tube. Just gonna do an overhaul on it it's been about two years since my last rebuild and see if that doesn't help. P.s. a mechanic told me that one of my intake valves could be a little too tight and causing a pulse through my intake Ive never heard of that issue lol

[joey1320]

[wcfvw69]

You can polish a turd so it looks shinny but it's still a turd. The Volkswagens that run the best have ALL their original, restored parts on them. I know of two type 1 engine powered buses that have 15-25k miles put on them each year and run perfectly with all their original, German made, restored parts on them.

As I mentioned before, this site's frequent posts for help is a testament to the lousy, Chinese or third world parts being sold today that cause so much havoc to owners.
_________________
Contact me at [email protected]
Follow me on instagram @sparxwerksllc

Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
The Samba member since 2004.

**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche distributors or I can restore yours**

[Xevin]

[Q-Dog]

[VolkzBitz]

[bobinphx]

one thing to check and one thing to clean.

Fuel dripping out of that tube means that the gas level is too high and that tube is the first place that excess fuel can find a way out of the bowl.

I would first check your fuel pressure. 2.5 to 3psi. I run my stock 1500 at 2 psi, as at one point I had the same issue of fuel dripping.

Second, the needle valve may need cleaning. Small tiny little bits of rust can get by the cheap plastic filters. The needle valve very very seldom opens very far at all, thus these little tiny bits of rust can catch in the valve seat and you will never see them! I empty the fuel bowl, use a straw on a can of carb cleaner and flush the carb cleaner through the fuel inlet pipe on the top of the carb. I also only use the metal can Fram g1 (I think thats the number) 10 micron fuel filter. I have had zero issues since installing the filter and flushing the needle valve.


As to the debate about the offshore parts. I have three 30 pict-3 carbs. Two solex and one from offshore. I am running the offshore one right now and its working fine. Around 1000 miles on it. I did find that the accelerator pump was leaking out of the box, but only a very minor amount. I fixed that and have had no other issues. The shafts on the other two carbs are pretty worn out. I could have them rebushed, but for the less than 80 bucks I paid for the offshore carb, I am pretty happy. Ill report back in 50,000 miles and we will see if it was a worthwhile investment.

I applaud Tim for providing what sounds like a great service to the vw community. Keep up the good work!



Just my thoughts.

[Jboy023]

All the responses I've gotten off this post has helped way more then my local mechanic. I'm 21 and this is my first car so it's a learning experience I'm going to try a rebuild kit for now and see where that runs me but when it's something important like a carburator it's not something you want too go cheap on. Now I'm 114 dollars in the gutter and a week with out driving.

[sb001]

[wcfvw69]