Turbo Question, with Picture...

[Team WorldTour]

So, I try real hard to keep the oil inside the engine. So last week, I noticed oil spots on the back door. I found a broken blow-by hose and replaced it. While fitting it to the intake, I noticed something:

Yeah. So I know this needs to be fixed, and I've been looking for this pipe, but it is proving difficult to find. (Difficult, as in- a pipe by itself, and not part of a NEW turbo!)
So, my question to the Gurus: How long can I wait? I'm broke until end of the month, but should I avoid driving at all?
Or is this not a big deal, and I can fix it when I get a chance?
_________________
1990 Feldjäger Syncro AAZ
Click to view image
H6 Subaru Engine Swap Thread
WV2ZZZ25ZFH094138(x)/ WV2YB0257LH057308(x)/ WV2ZZZ25ZLG113270/
"Where am I going? And what am I doing in this handbasket?" -Nicodemus Jordan
When All Else Fails: Lather, Rinse, Repeat!

[Waldi]

You can get a new tube for 60,- €.

But where is your tube to the wastegate ?

[danfromsyr]

you can install a 'catch can' oil separator to catch & condense the blow by oil and keep it out of the intake, which isn't really designed to retain oil anyways.

and that small wastegate fitting just open whistling dixie there?
_________________

[Gnarlodious]

You can reduce the oil vapor in blowby by extending the UFO and oil filler port on the valve cover with this part: https://www.google.com/search?&q=06A103465D . I put that special oil filler on to reduce the oil blowing out My 1Y engine. When I put the turbo on I discovered it suddenly had a lot of blowby, oil mist was spraying out the vent tube due to higher engine pressure (1Y is an industrial diesel and not optimized for a turbo). The cap with additional ports split the flow between more areas of pressure, so it reduced the oil blowing out. This extender has two openings to plug the tube into coming from below, other end is vented. It also makes it easier to put oil into the top. One opening means all your blowby has to come out the valve cover which increases the velocity of the blowby coming up from below so it carries more oil vapor. The topic is discussed on some of the diesel forums as a solution to older engines with blowby.
_________________
Vanagon ’83 diesel AAZ w/Giles injection, 5spd 4.57R&P+TBD and a '78 diesel Rabbit

[Team WorldTour]

[Christopher Schimke]

[Gnarlodious]

Yes, I had to order part from Europe #06A103465D with two tubes. The downstream hose is vented to atmosphere on my van, but I am rarely in a big city where I feel guilty. There are no valves in the part. It simply slows down the airflow allowing some of the blowby to lose its oil vapor, by giving the gas two ways to get out of the engine. I have the hose dripping into a can, but it has never dripped a drop. Its just a way to monitor engine wear.
_________________
Vanagon ’83 diesel AAZ w/Giles injection, 5spd 4.57R&P+TBD and a '78 diesel Rabbit

[Waldi]

[Team WorldTour]

[Waldi]

By turning the wastgate screw you can adjust the pressure to your gusto.
I would not go over 1 bar. I never sayed to tight it full.
In your case running without the tube the pressuere has no limit.
For rising the pressure with the wastegate screw you need a gauge.

[?Waldo?]

The K14/K24 only allow 1-2 psi of adjustment before the wastegate stops working properly at higher rpms.

You can get a barbed banjo fitting and use silicone hose to run to the wastegate. If you want to increase the boost above stock, then add a manual boost controller in that line. The ball-spring style are my preference.

[Team WorldTour]

[Zeitgeist 13]

Search for Dawes Device.
_________________
Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[Waldi]

[?Waldo?]

The screw on the wastegate adjusts the spring pressure slightly, but also limits the travel of the wastegate valve. If you adjust adjust it up more than 1 or 2 psi (~11 max) then the wastegate valve will no longer open far enough to pass enough of the exhaust gases at higher rpms. The result is an unregulated high rpm boost spike.

TWT, if you do a search on manual boost controllers, you will see what the ball/spring style is. Basically it is an adjustable check valve that only allows the boost pressure to reach the wastegate after the desired max boost is reached. It can be used to accurately regulate max boost above the stock wastegate setting. Many of the boost controllers are an adjustable air bleed in the line to the wastegate. That style does a worse job of regulating boost.

[Waldi]

[Waldi]

[Waldi]

Nico,
if you want to go Andrews way, which is the other way to Rome, just a bit more far, you need:

https://www.ebay.de/i/350985140374?chn=ps&dispItem=1

8m Tecalan pipe 4x1mm

I would take the original metal pipe from turbo to wastegate and cut it in the middle. Than you bow it away from hot parts to connect the Tecalan pipe.
The outside diametr of the metal pipe is 4,75mm. Making the 4mm Tecalan pipe hot will allow you to conect direct on the metal pipe withou using silicon or rubber conections.
This is better than fitings as the conection is more far away from hot parts.

You add a T connector for the gauge before the vent (above) in the tube than comes from Turbo. The tube on the other end of the vent goes to the wastegate.

Remember, rising the turbo pressure needs adjustment on your injection pump if you want more hp.

Without a oilcooler i would never run more than stock pressure.
Without intercooler i would never run more than 0.8 bar.

[Gizmoman]

without a pre-turbo EGT sensor and gauge, I wouldn't run anything that's not the stock setting.
_________________
82 Vanagon Westy - AAZ 1.9 TD, HE200 Holset, WAIC, 27.75 dia tires, Electric power steering, 5-speed AAP w/.078 5th
Oversize spare carrier - stock location (no longer for sale).

[Waldi]

Oh my god. EGT

I wonder how 100tsds of chiped new engines or m-tuned old engine can run without it