1600 DP won't idle and rough running

[Cjlittle]

Hello all, so I've had a problem with my 1600 dp. I recently rebuilt the motor due to a knock and I got everything buttoned up and now it won't idle and it sputters a lot. I am running a 34 pict 3, vac advance dizzy, stock fuel pump, stock everything else. My advance has to be set to almost 62 degrees before it wants to barely stay running. Cam timing is correct, I tore the motor all the way back down because I was for sure it was it. I've tried everything I can think of and need some help. Any help would be great!
Thanks!

[mikedjames]

How sure are you the cam gears are lined up right ?

Do you have the plug leads in the right order.?

And what reference are you using for TDC : is the keyway in the crank pointing left at 90 degrees when its indicating zero on the timing scale or pulley notch ?
_________________
Ancient vehicles and vessels

1974 VW T2 : Devon Eurovette camper with 1641 DP T1 engine, Progressive carb, full flow oil cooler, EDIS crank timed ignition.
Engine 1: 40k miles (rocker shaft clip fell off), Engine 2: 30k miles (rebuild, dropped valve). Engine 3: a JK Preservation Parts "new" engine, aluminium case: 26k miles: new top end.
Gearbox rebuild 2021 by Bears.

1979 Westerly GK24 24 foot racer/cruiser yacht Forethought of Gosport.
1973 wooden Pacer sailing dinghy

[Cjlittle]

I'm 100% that the gears are lined up. I split the case and rotated the crank till the dots were together. The cam gear is installed correctly because the farthest love in the downward direction while the mark on the gear is up.

Plug leads are in the right order. But I did notice that when I put the distributor in after the rebuild that the drive pinion was 180° out from where it should be. So when I set the dizzy tdc #1 was actually pointing to #3 cylinder on the rotor and cap. I compensated for this by knowing which way the distributor turned and ran the leads to the correct cylinder in their firing order.

I have a degree pulley so finding tdc and bdc isn't an issue.

[c705ncp]

Is there a possibility that you are timing engine on number 3 which may not be on compression instead of number 1. I say this as you say dizzy is 180 degs out. Take rocker cover off 1 and 2 and check that at TDC number 1 valves are closed and rockers loose and see where rotor is pointing to. Easy mistake to make.
Robert

[Cjlittle]

Yeah, #1 cylinder rockers are loose and is on the compression stroke and the rotor is turned toward #3 on the dizzy. So I ran the #1 plug lead to the #3 spot on the cap. The next one in line on the cap is #2 so I ran the #4 plug wire to the #2 spot on the dizzy, and so on. It's kind of confusing to say like this. Could the dizzy being 180 out cause the full advance to have to be in the 60's before it would run ok?

[c705ncp]

Dizzy drive shaft being 180 deg's out not a problem as long as plug leads changed as you have done. I'ts difficult not being hands on to resolve this problem and it will be something simple. I take it that you have single advance dizzy ie one vacumm pipe. and are setting timing at 7.5 degs BTDC.Rig up a test light from coil to earth at this setting and turn dizzy clockwise and then anti clockwise until test light lights up and that sould be correct timing. Yes I know we are going back to basic's but it has got to be something simple .
Robert

[Cjlittle]

Yeah I agree. It has to be back to basics. I tore the motor back apart to check cam timing and fix the drive gear. So now my dizzy is in the correct spot. Tdc #1 is lined up with the mark on the distributor body.

It is a single vacuum.

I have gone over the short block and internals with a fine tooth comb. Eliminated the chance of it being any internal issues. Now I'm just down to anything external. Ignition or carburetion

[c705ncp]

Well you have elimated the internal setup so as you say it has to be something external. The thing that I keep going back to is the fact that to get engine trying to start it is at 62 degs BTDC. Check that the vacumm canister lever has not come off dizzy base plate . Have you got a spare dizzy or is there anyone you know that has one that can lend you one to eliminate dizzy problem? I dont think air leak would cause the problems that you have but worth checking . Metal inlet manifold gaskets are sometimes a problem.Carb to manifold gasket OK and tight ?All vacumm pipes are connected or blocked off?Although I have mentioned air leaks I'm inclined to think it is ignition problem. Whats your name ?
Robert

[Cjlittle]

Well fellas I figured it out. After of lot of thought I just went out and started messing around. First thing was switching carbs from a Chinese 34 pict 3 to a German 34 pict 3 and I switched the Jets to a smaller size. Static times the dizzy to 8 deg btdc and fired it up. Made a whole world of difference so I kept rolling with that. Next I notice a cold cylinder, then another, so it was basically running on 2 cylinders. So I switched plugs to some nkgs and tried again. No more cold cylinder. Next it was still running a little rough so I turned my attention to spark, the coil to be exact and noticed it wasnt the coil that was supposed to be on there. I looked through my stuff and found an old blue coil. Started it up for the last time and all my troubles we're solved. Just had to do a little adjustment for the carb at idle and that was it. Thanks for all the help guys! I appreciate you all getting back to me so quick