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ozzmonaut
Samba Member
Joined: November 29, 2008
Posts: 151
Location: mount airy, NC
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 Posted: Mon Sep 04, 2017 9:55 pm Post subject: turn signal switch options |
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| I have been comparing turn signal switch prices and options. I have a 69 bus, and I realize that only the "correct" switch is what I should purchase. However, the 66-67 signal switches for sale have the correct wiring colors according to the wiring diagram in my Bentley manual, and the 68-71 switches do not. Additionally, the 66-67 switches are about $55-$60 cheaper. The only problem I can see right now, will the cancelling ring for the 66-67 switch work with my steering wheel? Also, any fitment issues due to a possible different diameter steering shaft between 67 and 68+(I have never owned a split bus, so I don't know). Anybody tried this? I don't mind paying a little more for the right thing, but the wiring colors on the 68+ switches are way off from the diagram, and the 66-67 switch is exact. And, of course, the 66-67 switch looks a little better, which isn't really a selling point, but it doesn't hurt either. Thanks in advance for your help. |
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airschooled
Air-Schooled
Joined: April 04, 2012
Posts: 12721
Location: on a bike ride somewhere
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| Posted: Mon Sep 04, 2017 11:37 pm Post subject: Re: turn signal switch options |
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The electrical "guts" will fit all housings from '62-'71, so you could theoretically take the electrical portion out of a 66+ switch* and put it into your bay housing to match and avoid any column fitment issues. (I don't know what the physical differences of the housings are, sorry.)
What is broken on yours that requires a new switch? Most OG switches are repairable.
Robbie
*even the guts from a '62+ will fit, but the high beam relay wasn't triggered by the turn signal stalk until '66.
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ozzmonaut
Samba Member
Joined: November 29, 2008
Posts: 151
Location: mount airy, NC
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| Posted: Tue Sep 05, 2017 5:34 am Post subject: Re: turn signal switch options |
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| When I got the bus, the turn signal switch was missing. A previous owner had mounted a 3-position switch on the column. It works ok, as long as the headlights are off and the brake pedal is not pressed, LOL. If the headlights are on, rear lights are on but don't blink, and if brake is pressed, front signals come on solid as well. Also has an aftermarket gm-style fuse box. And headlights are also through a toggle. I'm just trying to get everything back to normal, but I've been driving the bus pretty much daily in the meantime. |
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Jeff Geisen
Samba Chaplain
Joined: December 21, 2004
Posts: 1881
Location: N.W. Georgia
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| Posted: Tue Sep 05, 2017 5:27 pm Post subject: Re: turn signal switch options |
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The "magic" as far as dividing the rear turn signal from brake light happens within the flasher switch via the black w/purple wire at switch terminal 54f. It runs from there into the T/S switch.
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51121
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Tue Sep 05, 2017 6:12 pm Post subject: Re: turn signal switch options |
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| Jeff Geisen wrote: |
| The "magic" as far as dividing the rear turn signal from brake light happens within the flasher switch via the black w/purple wire at switch terminal 54f. It runs from there into the T/S switch. |
Well...., not really, the 7 wire combination brake/signal style switch keeps the front and rear circuits split so the rears can be brake lights when the lever is static (in neutral), when you move the lever the side you select is disconnected from the brake circuit and connected to the flasher along with the front circuit's light for that side. The hazard switch connects the brake light circuit to the flasher as well as both fronts so the rears flash along with the fronts even though they are still split at the signal switch.
The simple three position on-off-on toggle switch will work if you don't mind the fronts coming on with the brakes, quitting flashing when you turn on the side or head lights means there's a fixture or two that's not grounded well and the parking light power removes the temporary ground path through the other filaments.
You could solve the front brake light issue with a trailer light converter, but the extra expense along with the added wiring mess isn't worth it IMO, just buck up and buy the correct part, cheap always bites you later.
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