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Official lazy person's stupid question thread
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BrownEye02
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2020 1:58 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Does anyone know the part number for the IAC connector?
I thought this one was the correct replacement but turns out the IAC connector is larger then any other connector in the engine compartment.
https://www.gowesty.com/product/fuel-injection/24732/bosch-sealed-2-pin-female-connector-kit
Its 13mm x 22mm not including the notches. I looked all over the web but couldn't find anything. The only thing I'd get a return on for IAC connector is for an 83 and that looks to be the same sized connector as the replacement I picked up.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Edit: I did find this but still am not quite sure which one is the right connector.
https://www.jimellisvwparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=737533&ukey_product=5123134

If I search idle air control connector 39 or PN:037906240 is the only one that matches.
Looking at the photos though I would have to say none have the 2 notches on one side and a single notch on the other like my IAC valve has. If I had to pick one from the images I'd say 29 or 7 (357972772 or 357951772) look to be the closest looking connectors to what I need.
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2020 2:30 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

How full of oil do the valve-covers get when the engine is running?
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2020 5:39 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

bobbyblack wrote:
How full of oil do the valve-covers get when the engine is running?



Well, considering there are 4 push-rod tubes for drainage on each side and that the amount of oil pushed up thru the push rods is relatively small, I'd say the oil level is hardly ever more than an 1/8 inch in any given push-rod tube. Also, there is a lip on the head where the valve cover mates which has a drop off that is lower than the bottom of the valve cover. Thus, drainage out of the valve covers should be excellent, especially since it is only splatter that goes into the valve covers.

Typically, oil leakage around the valve covers is due to old gaskets, weak bail, excessive blow-by pressure and a more likely a combo.
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2020 10:14 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Hmm.. excessive blow by. I guess I should ask if that can happen on only one head? Its only the PS head that this happens on.

I've got 3 spare long blocks, I guess I could try different bails.

I could sacrifice a cover, put a hole in the top, and make a pipe go up to the intake.
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2020 12:26 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Unless you've already installed a good quality valve cover gasket, that's where I'd start, followed with a known strong bail. As for "excessive" blow-by, I just threw that in as a possibility. Blow-by pressure is internally equal through-out the engine. The factory design should take care of normal blow-by without any modifications.

If you only have one leaky valve cover, I feel quite confident that excessive blow-by is not the issue. Example: in 1997 on the way to Alaska the top compression ring on the 2.0 Air-cool engine in my 80 Vanagon broke. The blow-by was unbelievable. The engine was leaking oil from every push-rod tube seal, both valve covers were leaking and a bit of oil was coming out around the rear crankshaft seal. I had to drive on to find place to do major surgery on the engine, which I did in Delta Junction, AK..... problem solved!
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2020 12:43 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

I will pull the cover and look at the cork. It was a Mahle brand, I think, but I have at least one other brand I can try. I will also dig around in my spares to find the strongest bail I have. Then I can also try reseating the one leaky pushrod tube.

Thanks Andy!
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 5:25 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

How can I figure out weather I have the right length Oil dip stick?

OK ok.. probably by draining it, and putting the correct amt. in then looking at the stick..

The reason I bring this up is that as I was fixing the leaks mentioned above, when I pulled the leaking pushrod tube, it became clear rather quickly that there was excess oil in the engine. about 1/2 a quart came out.

Anyway, I found a different bail, one that looks to be about 1/8" shorter. Meaning the tips of the bail are closer to the head. I would imagine this leads to a tighter fit, but I don't know how to account for spring tension. New gasket was installed. This time I put a tiny bit of contact cement along the bottom edge of the cover and gasket. Like 1/16th wide, and 1/2" long, where gaskets seem to bow up sometimes.

Anyway, took the bus for a 25 minute drive, somewhat close to freeway speeds. No leak. Any one of the three issues that were resolved might explain this.
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 6:03 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

I bought a rebuilt alternator from NAPA.

While all the #'s, website, etc say they sent me one for my 1991, it's set up for a 1.9l- meaning no post for the blue wire, a male spade around about the same area.

I'm impatient and could just use my old alternator (w/ a known bearing whine but works otherwise) when I put my engine back in, but would then be removing it in a couple weeks to put one from a specialty vendor in after I get my return from NAPA processed (online order, the NC warehouse was shut down d/t covid).

I don't want to deal with all that. (lazy)

Is there a way to adapt the 2.1 harness to the 1.9 alternator (guessing you'd cut the end off the blue wire, put a female spade on, connect)?

If the 2.1 harness can be adapted to the 1.9 configuration, what are the reasons to not do this ? (stupid Cool )
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 1:17 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Huh, my alternator is from NAPA. They asked me if I had AC because that's the difference between getting the 80amp and the 90amp alternator. I said I had AC, mine has both posts.
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 1:27 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Here's the link to what I ordered, 90 amp.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/RSE2138219?partTypeName=Alternator&keywordInput=alternator

I failed to click on both pictures and see the difference- totally my fault.

But hey that's what returns are for.
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 3:42 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

BCE56 wrote:
A/C blower died... found this fried fuse holder...What caused this?

Could BOTH of the blower fans have seized up simultaneously?


I hope not! Shocked


(Later): One way to find out- I removed the melted fuse holder and clipped the wires. Crimped female spade terminals on each end, careful to keep them in order. Covered the exposed terminals w/ shrink-wrap and stuck in 2 new fuses.
Thusly:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



Tested briefly, blower seems to function as normal. I'll keep an eye on this.
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2020 6:37 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Would anyone happen to know the part number for the diesel van oil pan bolts.
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kamzcab86
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2020 6:43 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Zephyr_shreds wrote:
Would anyone happen to know the part number for the diesel van oil pan bolts.


N10172501

🍺
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2020 7:37 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Dumb trivia question:

My late model van has an early grille for the 7" round headlights. It has a small VW emblem, but I see a lot of roundy grilles have an emblem noticeably larger. What's the story and/or year cutoff for these different emblems?

My untethered to reality theory surmises that the large emblem grilles are from base model late vans in the Euro-zone that still had round headlights.

Thoughts, criticisms, angry rants, etc. ?
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2020 8:08 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Zeitgeist 13 wrote:
Dumb trivia question:

My late model van has an early grille for the 7" round headlights. It has a small VW emblem, but I see a lot of roundy grilles have an emblem noticeably larger. What's the story and/or year cutoff for these different emblems?

My untethered to reality theory surmises that the large emblem grilles are from base model late vans in the Euro-zone that still had round headlights.


Small emblem and its grille used through chassis J-014529 (early '88 ).

The larger emblem and its grille then superseded the small version. When the small supply ran out, VW supplied the larger version as replacements.

But, yes, standard equipment across the pond... oddly, ETKA online doesn't list the larger emblem grille.🤔
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Zeitgeist 13
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2020 8:21 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Thanks for resolving this long festering mystery. Closure is at hand.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 31, 2020 8:48 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

How many bolts does the diesel vanagon oil pan need? Anyone know off the top of your head? Working out of town so I can’t check it myself and I really want to put my new pan on this weekend.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 31, 2020 9:58 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Zephyr_shreds wrote:
How many bolts does the diesel vanagon oil pan need? Anyone know off the top of your head? Working out of town so I can’t check it myself and I really want to put my new pan on this weekend.

Looks to be 20. https://www.vancafe.com/044103609D-p/044103609d.htm
I'm seeing the same in my Bentley manual but have yet to find something that actually gives me a bolt count.

So what would happen if the coolant guage was plugged into the coolant temp II sendor? Reason I'm asking is I discovered my gauge and ECU wires were going to the incorrect spots on the thermostat housing, per the manual. My gauge tested OK with the 33 ohm resistor test (read max high and LED was blinking) but I feel like my readings are a bit high now with the wires swapped. My cooling system operates normally as the fan will come on as needed and I have yet to puke or have the engine act like its overheating. My other issue is both sendors have blue plastic connectors but produce different symptoms.
Here are my symptoms.
1. Gauge plugged into temp sendor on the left of the thermostat housing when facing motor - Gauge will get to the left edge of the cold line on the gauge after driving for hours.
2. Gauge plugged into temp sendor on the back of the thermostat housing - Gauge reads in upper 3/4 to 6-7/8. But its not high enough for the LED to come on.

When I first did the swap I noticed on ocasions after about 5 min of driving I would lose almost all engine power. Engine would hate accelerating and barly could keep a crusing speed on a flat surface. Was basically misfiring. If I turned the engine off and back on or kept driving the issue would clear. I thought this was the ECU getting the incorrect reading from the sensor so I swapped the cables back today but I had the issue occure again. This time the worse its ever been as my normal ways of clearing the issue weren't working. I'm now thinking this is not related and I've got something else deciding to fail. Was thinking it could be my idle stableizor connectors shorting out since I still have yet to locate the replacement connector for it but that should only cause idle issues, not while driving.
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2020 6:41 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Does the vacuum line between the brake booster check valve and that brake booster typically go bad?

I'm trying to find my vacuum leak. I used brake cleaner to try and find the leak while the engine was running and noticed the engine would react when spraying the brake booster check valve. I ordered a new one - but thinking I might need to replace the line that goes to the front of the van.
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2020 6:55 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

shagginwagon83 wrote:
Does the vacuum line between the brake booster check valve and that brake booster typically go bad?

I'm trying to find my vacuum leak. I used brake cleaner to try and find the leak while the engine was running and noticed the engine would react when spraying the brake booster check valve. I ordered a new one - but thinking I might need to replace the line that goes to the front of the van.


Check points where pipe may be rubbing due to vibrations and check for almost invisible splits at connections. Also, if a connection can be slipped by twisting, it is highly likely to leak vacuum.

For connection leaks, I've cut the vacuum line as close as possible to the connection and then reconnected by slightly heating the end of the pipe before shoving it in place. I have also heated the connection and pull it apart, then slide it back together with some success.

Be careful with your heat source ...
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