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Official lazy person's stupid question thread
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Blakesinclair
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 25, 2021 10:25 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

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Should I shmear some anti-seize on the gear oil plugs? Still trying to figure out when and when not to use that stuff.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 25, 2021 10:36 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Blakesinclair wrote:

Should I shmear some anti-seize on the gear oil plugs? Still trying to figure out when and when not to use that stuff.


The gear oil will typically prevent corrosion so I have never used anti seize here. What you don't want to do is over tighten the plug, as in use an 18" breaker bar and apply all the force you can to tighten the plug.
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Blakesinclair
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 25, 2021 1:19 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Cool thanks. Kinda what I figured, but since they weren't the easiest to get off I wasn't sure if I should do anything special to avoid that in the future. I guess they just don't get worked on as often as an oil drain plug.
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DuncanS
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 25, 2021 4:07 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Actually, two questions. Capturing the space over the tranny in a 2WD '91 tin top.
Need to reroute some stuff which will yield a great deal more space.

First---If I tip the coolant collection tower about 45Ί to the PS, (left in the photo) pivoting it on the bottom this will vastly help. Does anyone see a problem doing this? Top hose will be lengthened and have an appropriate molded curve section.
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Second---Is there any reason why the clutch slave cylinder can't be rotated counterclockwise 90Ί? Steel line will be reformed to accommodate.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 25, 2021 10:55 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
Blakesinclair wrote:

Should I shmear some anti-seize on the gear oil plugs? Still trying to figure out when and when not to use that stuff.


The gear oil will typically prevent corrosion so I have never used anti seize here. What you don't want to do is over tighten the plug, as in use an 18" breaker bar and apply all the force you can to tighten the plug.


Agreed!

At most, I use a 9" ratchet to gently tighten those plugs to about 14 ft lbs. I prefer drips to strips.

I just bought an 18" breaker bar to fasten/remove 83 ft lb lug nuts. It'd strip these plugs in a sparrow's heartbeat.
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ALIKA T3
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 25, 2021 10:57 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

It`s just fluid, no problem in doing both.
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ALIKA T3
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 25, 2021 10:58 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Blakesinclair wrote:
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Should I shmear some anti-seize on the gear oil plugs? Still trying to figure out when and when not to use that stuff.


I put a couple wraps of teflon tape, not for leak prevention but for seize prevention. Your case can corrode to pieces, it will still come off....
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Steve M.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2021 7:45 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Use the yellow fuel resistsnt teflon tape if you can find it.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2021 11:32 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Need to change the upper oil pressure sensor (between push rods) on my 2.1 L Can I do it without draining oil if I jack up the driver's side go up on blocks on that side? Classic Lazy question. Thanks.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2021 11:48 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

bobhill8 wrote:
Need to change the upper oil pressure sensor (between push rods) on my 2.1 L Can I do it without draining oil if I jack up the driver's side go up on blocks on that side? Classic Lazy question. Thanks.


The switch between the pushrods is the low pressure switch. Either switch can be changed without draining the oil.
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djkeev
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2021 12:01 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
bobhill8 wrote:
Need to change the upper oil pressure sensor (between push rods) on my 2.1 L Can I do it without draining oil if I jack up the driver's side go up on blocks on that side? Classic Lazy question. Thanks.


The switch between the pushrods is the low pressure switch. Either switch can be changed without draining the oil.


Your biggest concern is mangling the push rod tubes!

It is a tight spot with little clearance.

A 31/32 domestic Shower Valve socket (plumbers sockets) has been time proven to be effective. It fits in the tight space nicely.

Dave
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2021 12:08 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Thanks fellas - luckily have a deep 15/16" that used to belong to my Dad that works as well
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Brentpd
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2021 6:48 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Here’s a stupid question (thanks for creating this forum). I just had my engine rebuilt (1.9 ‘85 riviera) and the coolant is this dark brown color. I noticed the coolant is getting somewhat low so I’d like to top it off but I don’t know exactly what type of coolant it is. Anyone know if it’s okay to mix the gas station shit with this other, thicker looking coolant or should I call the guy That rebuilt it for me and find out what he put in it?

Thanks for the help!
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VicVan
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2021 7:17 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Hi, to begin with your coolant shouldn't be dark brown... Take some out of the coolant tank to look at its color, it always looks darker in the tank than it actually is.
Also, do ask your rebuilder what he put in there.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2021 10:28 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

You should also be concerned if you have a recently rebuilt motor and you're losing coolant. It doesn't necessarily mean the engine is bad but it may mean that your new engine's life support system (the cooling system) has a leak which can get worse and take your engine out in short order.

- coolant shouldn't be brown
- coolant should not disappear

It could simply be a hose clamp that needs to be tightened which is 100% normal after a rebuild.
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djkeev
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2021 10:57 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Is the coolant actually brown or are the translucent white plastic tanks badly stained dark brown?

I just redid my 90’s engine and part of that was a complete cooling system renewal and cleaning.

Those tanks took a bit if work with some simple green, brushes and a handful of 6mm nuts which were an agitation aid to clean them up.

After a few heat cycles I had about Six leaks, mostly from clamps that needed tightening.

Dave
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revolution337
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 30, 2021 4:13 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

How does one remove the rear ash tray in the panel just behind the slider door?

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Jim Bear
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 31, 2021 5:18 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Double post...
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Last edited by Jim Bear on Wed Mar 31, 2021 7:25 am; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 31, 2021 5:32 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

In a pinch, if the cap to the plastic expansion tank decides it does not want to stay tight and keeps loosening up while on the road, would an acceptable temporary fix be to wrap one or two large zip ties or even duct tape around the tank to keep it secure? Something like this(ish):
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 31, 2021 5:40 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

When that cap loosens up, it is often because the cheap plastic aftermarket tank threads are deforming in the heat.

Give up your lattes for a few weeks and spring for a quality aluminum tank.

They aren't cheap, but they are good.

I made my own from a generic tank but honestly, I saved little if any money.

Dave
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